[snoproracer]

Don't worry about the Center to Center distance so much if you can keep your belt deflection where it is supposed to be. Remove shims from inside the secondary to get the belt riding high above the secondary (Within reason) This should put your belt deflection back within spec. Make sure to keep your offset at 5/8", or use the Arctic offset tool. Note: With the track tension set to the proper 1" or so, the track when elevated should want to move a little when the sled is idling. That will let you know that your belt is set tight enough.

 

[dave]

Thanks that is a great idea!!! Do you think that I should just take out one shim if i'm a little close?? Did you find that a lot of the F7's were off?? B)

 

[Sally Danger]

Every sled is a bit different. Most are off a smidge. The racers measure and hand pick their chassis'.

Then after the first jump, theirs are off too.

 

[Guest]

I agree about the belt deflection. Did you use both adjusters on the engine? front and back. I like to push my centers a little long with the engine about 0.040" positive so that when it is under load it torques into position. Sounds like you don't have enough tension on it if it is moving around. My center to center was very close fron the factory, yet I gave it a special touch.

 

[dave]

Ya i like to adjust mine a little long too! The adjuster in front of the motor by the carb isn't as tight as the other one by the cluches, mainly because it's in such a tight spot to get to. I had to bend a 9/16 rench just to get in there. I'm ready to move the DAMM carbs out of the way!!! But I guess I'll try it again, I just really want the little extra top end to go by the other F7's that arent alligned right B) .