Well bro, you can be like me and try it unprepared.... i used the tool kit it came with, spark wrench and a phillips through it..... man it was a PAIN in the ass. Mainly cause they were on too tight.... i recommend a spark plug socket
It is hard to use the spark plug wrench in the tool kit on the plug that is on the clutch side. I have a 11/16 wrench that I carry with me and by lifting the belt guard up, you can loosen that plug with no problem and without getting burned.
I got burnt in three different places on both hands - after doing a piston/plug check. I don't check plugs or wash until the engine is cooled now.
They hard to get at w/o getting burnt and the best way is thing a 3 inch extension and ratchet on the mag side and standard ratchet on pto side.
Mine fowled out at 30 miles. trailered my sled up north for 7 hours. got there, started on 2nd pull. i came back minute latered to hear it stuter and die. pulled rope the rope in vein only to find out one plug fowled. THe f7 wont start on one plug no matter how long u pull the rope. I used a ratchet with a socket on the pto side. and an extension was added for the mag side. they were on way to tight from the factory, i couldnt budge them with the toolkit crap.
Just a word to the wise!
If you remove the exhaust pipe be carefull with the exhaust donut - they chip very easy.
Dealer chiped two corners out of mine when they checked the carb jetting.
When you put the exhaust back on, mount the pipe to the y connector from the bottom up, not top down - it does make a difference and makes a difference which spring you put on first.
Doing a chop off is almost imposs. checking piston wash & plug reading, inless you take a ratchet,shocket, extension and put it in your pocket.
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