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1,224 Posts
check the belt with the 1 yr warranty??? what, who sold you that
maybe for cats 4 stroke
maybe for cats 4 stroke
Changing belts
1771
24
Has anyone had to change a belt yet. I got a new Belt that has a 1 year warentee so i thought i would throw it on but i couldnt spread the sheaves apart. How do you do this cuz if i push in and turn clockwise it wont move. It wont even move in when i push it. I just slid it over and rolled it on but now my defelction is way,way off i can almost touch the belt together in the middle. WTF is wrong?
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504 Posts
Its the same one as for the Zrs
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504 Posts
also started it and engaged the clutch a few times it tightened up but still not enough
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1,224 Posts
good luck,
ive had 2 zr 800's and i cant believe their is a belt that will make it all season, ridin hard
ive had 2 zr 800's and i cant believe their is a belt that will make it all season, ridin hard
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504 Posts
its something like duramax 2 or ultramax 2 , something like that.should i just take it to my dealer and have my presaseon checkup done anyways just so if it is wrong i know for sure and if i do need to change the deflection they will do it for me?
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959 Posts
hey dave i cant believe you would go through belts that quick.
I got 2700 miles out of my last one. all thought maybe you put miles on quicker than i do..... man i want some snwl
I got 2700 miles out of my last one. all thought maybe you put miles on quicker than i do..... man i want some snwl
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1,224 Posts
ditch jumper,
i probaly weigh more than you, the best i have ever done is about 700 miles,
i dont wait for the belt to blow-up before i replace
i probaly weigh more than you, the best i have ever done is about 700 miles,
i dont wait for the belt to blow-up before i replace
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525 Posts
Mine must be due for a melt down as I have 3600 miles on my Zl's 600's belt. ..
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19,467 Posts
F5 ... I experienced the same problem with the clutch not opening up. Put the sled up on my stand and "rotated" the belt off (actually worked pretty easy). It slid back on just fine, and my deflection came back after starting it up and engaging the clutch. I have no idea how your clutch could be THAT off just by "rotating" the belt off/on. If you've started it and engaged the clutch, I would definitely measure the belt and compare it to your old belt. Other than that, it might be worth a call to the dealer for their input.
My .02
Chris
My .02
Chris
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166 Posts
The Dayco Ultimax II number is 140-4748 which mean 1.4" wide and 47 and 48/64th's which is obviously 47 3/4" long. it is the same as the 0627-020 which is the stock Arctic Cat belt. To remove a belt lock the brake and rotate the back sheave of the secondary, then grab the top of the belt about halfway between the clutches and give a swift upward pull, this will pull the belt into the secondary sheaves and give you enough to easily remove the belt. As far as the belt deflection after a new belt is installed, make sure you run the sled briefly to engage the belt. Then check belt deflection. To adjust the deflection remove shims from in between the secondary clutch. If you want to measure a belt use a flexible tape measure and measure the ouside of the belt. I could go on and on here, but this should answer most of your questions.
Dave I don't care what you ride, and I can guarentee you don't ride as hard we cross country race, your alignment is off. Unless your using really cheap belts, or are purposely burning flat spots on the belt. Your offset should be 5/8" or use a Arctic offset tool and check it. As your belt wears use the shims in the secondary to keep the right belt height and it will last a long time.
Dave I don't care what you ride, and I can guarentee you don't ride as hard we cross country race, your alignment is off. Unless your using really cheap belts, or are purposely burning flat spots on the belt. Your offset should be 5/8" or use a Arctic offset tool and check it. As your belt wears use the shims in the secondary to keep the right belt height and it will last a long time.
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641 Posts
Is this the only way to get belts on & off? I couldn't spread the secondary either. Can you imagine doing this in some really nasty terrain? Sounds like a shitty deal.
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332 Posts
To remove the belt grab it on top in the middle and pull straight up. This will open the sheaves and you can remove the belt.
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The easiest way to spread the sheaves is to lock the parking brake, grab the secondary by the tower around the helix that holds the rollers, turn it counter clockwise, then pull up on the belt. Then you can work the belt out starting at one point and going around. I usually put the belt back on with the track off the ground, get the belt started and turn the whole clutch until the belt is seated. The deflection can not be checked until the belt has been run a few times around.
Check this out guys... just when you think you've got every cool tool in the catalog!
http://www.ponderosaca.com/snow/ads/BELT-AID.html
Roy
http://www.ponderosaca.com/snow/ads/BELT-AID.html
Roy
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504 Posts
Ok so today after work i took the new belt off .same size as old belt but i still couldnt get the secondary sheaves to separate. And the Deflection is more than specs sop how do i remove shims if i need to after i run it?
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