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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well,
(Stock clucthing with D&D y-pipe, MBRP can, and 2"challenger track)
Had some slipping issues about half way up the clutch sheave, and right on the bottom end, also the primary was getting a lot hotter than it should.Changed out the stock 75g wieghts for some 77g wieghts. When we were breaking the nut's free on the wieght bolts every one of the wieghts busted.There was rust in between the wieght and the bolt. Anyway's, got everything back together and went out today for a burn. Noticed a big difference, sled pulls a noticable amount more through the whole range. I just rolled over the 250mile mark today, and this combo seems to work well.Max rpm was 7820rpm and held wide open it would hit around that mark consistently and then bounce between 7790rpm or so and the max. I'm not sure what my top mph was because it was dark and I was scetchy about holdin er to long, but I remember seeing 93mph. I'll be doing some more riding tomorow, so i'll mark my sheaves and see what kind of shift out I'm getting. Before the wieght change I was coming within around 1/4 inch of full shift. But the sled was definitely not pulling as hard as it is now. Did notice just as everyone said that the more miles you get on these things the faster they seem to get! :beerchug:

Keeper'

(Oh yeah, just in case anyone has a buddy with a 06 700(actually a 755cc) RMK these sleds both with stock clutching(I do have the y-pipe on him), both with cans, and 2" tracks,held wide open, accross a quarter section, with about 8-12 inches of snow, give or take, will run neck and neck)
 

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That seems interesting that the weights broke...hmmmm. I'm no clutch tuning guru.......but is it typical that those changes require a change of weights? Then to have 2g of weights make a big difference?
 

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On those weights, are they the stock profile, just 2 grams heavier? I heard from other guys that there is loctite on the clutch components, and they need some heat to break free, just a rumor for what its worth. I am contiplating changing weights, and am interested in seeing what others are trying. My sled is stock track, with studs. I am using am Ultimax 3 belt and dont seem to have belt heat issues (IE melted residue on sheaves, etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well,
Went out today and put about 70 miles on with the new weights. Marked my clutch sheave before we took off. Checked it out after the ride, and I'm definetly acheiving full shift out. Hard pack and deep snow max rpm is consistent in and around the 7800rpm range.
Lined up with the 700 rmk(changed helix, and primary/secondary spring) again on hard pack as well as an 06 900 rmk 166"(stock w/stinger) and a '01 ZR 800(clutched/stinger). First race 1000 + feet with all sleds ate them all up. Second race all sleds, ZR and 900 rmk let off, 700 rmk caught me right at the end of my mid range and then I started to pull away from him, but ran out of room. Rode all day and the only time that the rmk's would pull from me was when in deep snow, but not much. Before hitting the end of the field I'd be gaining on them like a muther, but thats the advantage of their longer tracks, digs the snow better. Buddy with his 700 rmk is changing his gearing, he's ticked off I got top end on him lol.
Oh, yeah, no slipping issues anymore, seems to be a solid setup.

Weights are stock profile just two grams heavier.

Keeper
 
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