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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yep, good price if brandy new. Not so great if they've been used.
yeah i looked around and found a brand new in packaging for 10 bucks more then these total, im going to go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
bought the brand new set.134 usd by the time shipping and taxes were in.

the rmk had a noticeable gurgle , pretty inconssistently , from 4000-6000 rpms then seemed to clear up up top.

6600 miles on her so good chance maybe a cracked petal.had it apart twice messing with carbs and totally flaked on checking the reeds, doh!

gonna tear her apart again now later the summer when i have a few days off. even if it aint the issue i spose at the mileage a freshen up on the petals certainly wont hurt anyway.

id rather pay the 170 cad for these then the mid 500s for the vforce cages thats for sure. im not expecting no power gains , just hoping it helps smooth out that mid throttle burble.
 

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275MT are what you want. As far as what you complain...it appears to be rich for whatever reason. I'd start with replacing those n/s o-rings. You can get them fairly cheap from arctic cat. Polaris does not sell them separately. Assume you played with the fuel screws leaning them out some. Still think your original rmk was exceptional. I never saw those later 600's run that well unless a 660. Would of been a good match for the 00 600 ves i once had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
275MT are what you want. As far as what you complain...it appears to be rich for whatever reason. I'd start with replacing those n/s o-rings. You can get them fairly cheap from arctic cat. Polaris does not sell them separately. Assume you played with the fuel screws leaning them out some. Still think your original rmk was exceptional. I never saw those later 600's run that well unless a 660. Would of been a good match for the 00 600 ves i once had.
my first one would eat this thing alive though. too big a difference, theres definitely something not right on this one.

so i ordered up those reed petals, and ordered up a 165/327 team almond to try, and a new stock spring for the secondary and some delrins. i know the secondary was a mess last year , buried back there and just a mess of belt dust and gunk crap in the area. so ill swap the petals , freshen up the clutching , and if its still performing crappy , ill go deeper into the carbs. i already have reset the fuel screws to factory setting , cleaned all jets etc. its jetted the same as the old red rocket i had there.its geared the same. once the fuels sorted out and clutchings warmed over ,if it comes back to life ill cut the lugs maybe down to 1.4 like i had on the last one, see where im at then.

if its still pulling like it did last year after that , then i guess i just had a hot runner the last time, but the difference was remarkable. its down 6 mph at best to my last one on the same distance, and the midrange pull just does not feel the same, at all.

the 05 xc sp ann i ran against last year has been completely untouched since i had it, and it was 2 to 1 xc last year with it walking the rmk down hard at the line.

that same xc was not even close to the first one.i even used to cheat on the xc and get my cousin whos notoriusly slow on the holeshot to run the rmk and id jump hole every time and by 100 feet it was deuces , rmk would pull it all the way on 1000 with the xc not making any ground on top.

my 05 switchback 6 , was up 2 mph over first my rmk was , but had them at different times so never ran head to head.still think rmk pulled harder in the low and mid and would have beaten the switch too.

this rmk is not even in the same league as those other two, and i can only guess its because of overfueling or loading up. my rmk i did notice was down a few hundred rpm too up top pulling the same weights my first one did.

not like it matters, its the back up now anyway, but would like to have her set up nice and snappy. its just not right yet.

new challenge accepted lol
 

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Personally not a fan of those high engagement race springs on a trail sled, unless primarily racing it. Their hard on the crank when you launch the sled. Seen way too many cranks go slightly out of phase then run poorly.....doesn't take a crank being much out of phase that will make a sled not run as well as it should. Most guys don't even know it when this happens. I can tell you for a fact if the sled has over 5k miles, its more than likely needing primary clutch work to. Even those roller secondary's get sloppy helix's.
As far as the factory carb settings...imo, thats just a ballpark place to start. I've always gotten better results with further tweaks. Make sure that temp sensor connector is clean with no corrosion between those plug pin contacts. Tps needs to be at least 4.1 v for these sleds to feel right. If any question its a tps issue, you can unplug it and see if the sled runs any better. Just don't ride trails with it unplugged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Personally not a fan of those high engagement race springs on a trail sled, unless primarily racing it. Their hard on the crank when you launch the sled. Seen way too many cranks go slightly out of phase then run poorly.....doesn't take a crank being much out of phase that will make a sled not run as well as it should. Most guys don't even know it when this happens. I can tell you for a fact if the sled has over 5k miles, its more than likely needing primary clutch work to. Even those roller secondary's get sloppy helix's.
As far as the factory carb settings...imo, thats just a ballpark place to start. I've always gotten better results with further tweaks. Make sure that temp sensor connector is clean with no corrosion between those plug pin contacts. Tps needs to be at least 4.1 v for these sleds to feel right. If any question its a tps issue, you can unplug it and see if the sled runs any better. Just don't ride trails with it unplugged.
noted.i can run the sled for a short run around the field with tps unplugged?or just idle sort of thing?

any idea what those o rings are called or a part number ?
 

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noted.i can run the sled for a short run around the field with tps unplugged?or just idle sort of thing?

any idea what those o rings are called or a part number ?
Right now can't recall but their off any later arctic cat sled with the 38mm back carbs...example, maybe a 00 zrt 600 or zr 600.
As for unplugging the tps...short drag runs like 660' are ok, but i doubt its the issue. If you have 4.1- 4.3 volts at wot, i wouldn't worry. Don't be too surprised if the crank needs some tweaking especially at that mileage. Those 600's are not immune to crank issues when you've checked everything else it would be. You can find out for sure now if you degree it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Right now can't recall but their off any later arctic cat sled with the 38mm back carbs...example, maybe a 00 zrt 600 or zr 600.
As for unplugging the tps...short drag runs like 660' are ok, but i doubt its the issue. If you have 4.1- 4.3 volts at wot, i wouldn't worry. Don't be too surprised if the crank needs some tweaking especially at that mileage. Those 600's are not immune to crank issues when you've checked everything else it would be. You can find out for sure now if you degree it.
its not impossible, but i seriously doubt its a crank issue.theres no erratic idle or sucking air lean condition at all, no backfiring or sputtering at idle at all, starts first pull , idles like a champ, no vibration in the bars and wide open its fine albeit rich.

this condition im talking about appears only apparent from 4000-6000ish rpms then appears to 'clear out '.to me, it sounds like text book cracked petal or a carberator issue. the down on rpms i believe was my sping / weight combination.i went up 2 grams and went down 30 lbs on the finish rate.thought it still pill 8 like my old one did, but it didnt. secondary looks filthy too. compressions 123/123.maybe time to fresen the top end possible, but still seems to start and run perfect.1 pull, cold , stone cold , no matter what, choke halfway , 1 pull shes alive every time.same as my other rmk that way.my switch and xc didnt share that trait.2 to 3 pulls for those, but start everytime too, but always take an additional 1 or 2 pulls.not sure why that is either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Right now can't recall but their off any later arctic cat sled with the 38mm back carbs...example, maybe a 00 zrt 600 or zr 600.
As for unplugging the tps...short drag runs like 660' are ok, but i doubt its the issue. If you have 4.1- 4.3 volts at wot, i wouldn't worry. Don't be too surprised if the crank needs some tweaking especially at that mileage. Those 600's are not immune to crank issues when you've checked everything else it would be. You can find out for sure now if you degree it.
i think the twin zr 6 would be a safe bet. thanks for all the info bud like always.

just bought a home , has two little sheds joined together.just modified the door to make it wide enough for sleds on both sides, so once i gut that out later the week ill put the dragon 7 over in the other shed and then ill have room to start picking at the rmk.

im going to go ahead and order these o rings you were talking about.when i pull the carbs , ill have em on site to do the sametime and maybe dive deeper and pull the main needle and see what positions that in. if the needle drops down lower into the carb it would cause a richer condition in the midrange too wouldnt it?

like to elimenate the carbs and reeds as the issue , then i can go deeper .if i was a betting man , i bet its one of these carb issues or the reeds.

overal conmdition , the sled is terrific shape.its worth a few bucks into it to get it right i think.

although i was looking at sleds in ontario last night on kijiji, found a 02'xcr 800 mint condition with 5 k for 5 grand canadian..i only got room for 2 , but god dam i always wanted one of those fuji triples.got me thinking.i got a bud that works seasonal i can get it brought down in the fall.


tempting...very tempting.

said xcr add; 2002 Polaris XCR800 triple | Snowmobiles | Peterborough | Kijiji
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Right now can't recall but their off any later arctic cat sled with the 38mm back carbs...example, maybe a 00 zrt 600 or zr 600.
As for unplugging the tps...short drag runs like 660' are ok, but i doubt its the issue. If you have 4.1- 4.3 volts at wot, i wouldn't worry. Don't be too surprised if the crank needs some tweaking especially at that mileage. Those 600's are not immune to crank issues when you've checked everything else it would be. You can find out for sure now if you degree it.
can ya identify it in this diagram by number?

OEM Parts Polaris Parts Online La Crête, AB (780) 928-3932
 

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its not impossible, but i seriously doubt its a crank issue.theres no erratic idle or sucking air lean condition at all, no backfiring or sputtering at idle at all, starts first pull , idles like a champ, no vibration in the bars and wide open its fine albeit rich.

this condition im talking about appears only apparent from 4000-6000ish rpms then appears to 'clear out '.to me, it sounds like text book cracked petal or a carberator issue. the down on rpms i believe was my sping / weight combination.i went up 2 grams and went down 30 lbs on the finish rate.thought it still pill 8 like my old one did, but it didnt. secondary looks filthy too. compressions 123/123.maybe time to fresen the top end possible, but still seems to start and run perfect.1 pull, cold , stone cold , no matter what, choke halfway , 1 pull shes alive every time.same as my other rmk that way.my switch and xc didnt share that trait.2 to 3 pulls for those, but start everytime too, but always take an additional 1 or 2 pulls.not sure why that is either.
What crank issue you described is more major...you won't notice if one is a out a small amount, just down on hp. We drag raced on grass, and ice alot back in the day. Those engines were completely torn down, cranks were sent out to be welded, straightened, or replaced during a season depending what class running, not to mentioned those top ends were freshened up for the next weekend. Not claiming its your problem, but usually it can be on a higher mileage sled once you've eliminated all else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What crank issue you described is more major...you won't notice if one is a out a small amount, just down on hp. We drag raced on grass, and ice alot back in the day. Those engines were completely torn down, cranks were sent out to be welded, straightened, or replaced during a season depending what class running, not to mentioned those top ends were freshened up for the next weekend. Not claiming its your problem, but usually it can be on a higher mileage sled once you've eliminated all else.
oh for sure man.there two strokes afterall.

waiting to hear back from my buddy on what he wants to pick up a sled up there in ontario and bring her home.

if hes up for it for a decent price and i can talk down xcr guy some, i might be putting the old magic dragon up for sale and keep the rmk for trail riding and throw a few grand and pick up that 02' xcr 800. any experience with those big fuji 8s?
 

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oh for sure man.there two strokes afterall.

waiting to hear back from my buddy on what he wants to pick up a sled up there in ontario and bring her home.

if hes up for it for a decent price and i can talk down xcr guy some, i might be putting the old magic dragon up for sale and keep the rmk for trail riding and throw a few grand and pick up that 02' xcr 800. any experience with those big fuji 8s?
Only that they go fast. Got a buddy with an 02 srx 700 that goes real fast too....chews up stock xcr8's like child's play.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Only that they go fast. Got a buddy with an 02 srx 700 that goes real fast too....chews up stock xcr8's like child's play.
srxs are fast too, no doubt.all being equal though , in stock form , if the xcr hooks up, its deuces.
 

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srxs are fast too, no doubt.all being equal though , in stock form , if the xcr hooks up, its deuces.
I have no clue what he's done to that srx except it has a 192 pick's, and comes out like a raped ape. By 500' the race is usually over for those xcr8's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have no clue what he's done to that srx except it has a 192 pick's, and comes out like a raped ape. By 500' the race is usually over for those xcr8's.
theres only a handful of ves xcrs ive seen here on the island.every one of them cleaned house though.mach zs and srxs included. i seen the 99' 700 xcr ves take down a srx.. its all set up for those triples.traction being the biggest issues i see.when they do hook up , there giving stock new turbos alot to think about on 660-1000 feet.
 

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theres only a handful of ves xcrs ive seen here on the island.every one of them cleaned house though.mach zs and srxs included. i seen the 99' 700 xcr ves take down a srx.. its all set up for those triples.traction being the biggest issues i see.when they do hook up , there giving stock new turbos alot to think about on 660-1000 feet.
Bone stock mach z's are not all that fast. I've beaten them with my 00 600 ves if they slept. Only a few guys i know with a lot of setup, and tuning experience were able to have really fast ones. You go back to earlier late 90's mach z 800's they were even slower. 800 twins today would kick their ass.
 
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