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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Buying a 1.25" Ripsaw off of TracksUSA.com for the new sled I'm picking up ('04 440 pro XR chassis with a 700 VES with a single SLP pipe). Probably going with the pre-drilled one because I'm lazy. Going to be for decent snow conditions, and going to head out on the lake and run some people every now and then. Figure this will be a good all around track, but do the stud pros think I should go with 144 or 96? Anyone here have a similar powered sled with either 96 or 144, and have any complaints?
 

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put them all down the center also
 

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Originally posted by ProX700man@Oct 18 2005, 06:41 PM
put them all down the center also
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If you get a factory prepunched like mine they are all in the center.... Camo knows the outer edges pulls out! You will want to use double backers witch its drilled for anyways. and get some tall nuts. If I had it to do again I would go with a longer stud then 1325 woodys. They are about .050 ~.100" to short in my opinion (that what I am running). I only run 108 in my 136 track but I dont look for any races on ice , I know what the outcome is ....... :frech11: with a snow coverd lake I have no problem testing out Polaris power , 7 out of 10 times the 136 with studs give you way more traction then most sleds so you cant even tell why you won the race. if your on ice get 144 there is no way 96 will do anything in a race, the 96 on trails keep the sled free in the corners. Its reall just a personal preferance thing do you want to slide alittle or do you want it nailed to the ground?

FYI the pre punched tracks have a 2 year warrenty , I think if you drill your own voids the warrenty on a normal track !
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Very good info to know xc-mark! I thought I saw something about a stud warranty also tracksusa.com. Pretty sweet deal, and I think it's worth the extra little bit of money.
 

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Originally posted by 95Blackgtp@Oct 18 2005, 09:57 PM
Very good info to know xc-mark! I thought I saw something about a stud warranty also tracksusa.com. Pretty sweet deal, and I think it's worth the extra little bit of money.
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Hey before you buy check with richmotorsports http://www.richmotorsports.com/. He gave me a better price then track usa did. And now he's supporter of this site too.
 

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I run (96) 1.450" woodys in a ripsaw using (48) angled double backers down the center only. The sled is an 03 ProX race chassis with a 660 motor engaging around 4200rpm I have C&A race skis with 7.5" shaper bars. The sled works pefect for me on the trails and ditches and the track has held up for 2 seasons so far, no tear outs, etc. I realize that holeshots on ice would be compromised but most lakes in MI are snow covered so the track hooks well.
 

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What do you think the difference in topend is vs. the 1" predator from camo?I have a 1" pred. on my lightly modded 01xc800 and would like it to hook better on snow,but I'm worried about losing too much topend.Ive heard different stories on the ripsaw not being that bad for top speed.
 

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You might consider the new Camoplast Ice Ripper. It is a Ripsaw track with like 250+ carbide tips built right into the track. I personally haven't used one but maybe someone who has could shed some light.
 

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Originally posted by tinman@Oct 19 2005, 11:00 AM
What do you think the difference in topend is vs. the 1" predator from camo?I have a 1" pred. on my lightly modded 01xc800 and would like it to hook better on snow,but I'm worried about losing too much topend.Ive heard different stories on the ripsaw not being that bad for top speed.
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There is a good article in the new snotech about the ripsaw top end. Basicly says the ripsaw was the same or had better top end then most 1" tracks. They said the hacksaw and some other newer tracks would be the exception.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Originally posted by nickels@Oct 19 2005, 09:33 AM
Hey before you buy check with richmotorsports http://www.richmotorsports.com/. He gave me a better price then track usa did. And now he's supporter of this site too.
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Wow, that is a damn good price! Will most likely go with him. TracksUSA was $369 for the pre-drilled track plus $20 shipping. Then you figure the studs on top of that. Actually I'm looking through his site and I see that is usually $730, but with the different studs. Did you get the one with the mack studs or the Rotein Hornets? Maybe they are the same ones? I duno, all I've used is Woody's. But anyways, thanks again for the link!
 

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Originally posted by 95Blackgtp@Oct 19 2005, 08:52 PM
Wow, that is a damn good price! Will most likely go with him. TracksUSA was $369 for the pre-drilled track plus $20 shipping. Then you figure the studs on top of that. Actually I'm looking through his site and I see that is usually $730, but with the different studs. Did you get the one with the mack studs or the Rotein Hornets? Maybe they are the same ones? I duno, all I've used is Woody's. But anyways, thanks again for the link!
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I just got the track from him. It was the first year the ripsaw came out. They didn't have the pre drilled tracks then.
 

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I've been tryin to find a post that talked about the ripsaw and how it loses on top end. Is this true that the ripsaw will lose topend or will it be the same?
 

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Originally posted by nickels@Oct 19 2005, 08:14 PM
There is a good article in the new snotech about the ripsaw top end. Basicly says the ripsaw was the same or had better top end then most 1" tracks. They said the hacksaw and some other newer tracks would be the exception.
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Originally posted by X-Treme3x@Oct 26 2005, 06:12 PM
I've been tryin to find a post that talked about the ripsaw and how it loses on top end. Is this true that the ripsaw will lose topend or will it be the same?
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