Bubble in oil line
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I have 185 miles on my std f7 and was checking it over last night, I found a 1/4 inch bubble in the oil line behind the clutches. I could not find and holes in the line or anything that would let air in, the oil level was ok, I never tipped it on the mag side. Could the oil pump be letting air in somehow?
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4,112 Posts
Mine has "bubbles" in it too. I don't know if they are techically bubbles cause if you look closely, there is oil on the bottom half of the line. That is the way it is on mine at least. I don't think the pump flows an "oil line width" into the engine. If there is oil resting on the bottom part of the line, I THINK, you will be fine.
Just my experiance.
Just my experiance.
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3 Posts
There is a Service Advisory.Subjest:Air Bubble in Oil-Line Hose
Basic Points:
-may develope bubble if on mag side(right) for extended period of time,especially if oil tank not full
-if bubble is visible - purge oil-injection system
WARRNING-DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE OR OPERATE SNOWMOBILE WITH AN AIR BUBBLE IN THE OIL-LINE HOSE.DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE MAY OCCUR.
To Purge:
NOTE: The oil reservoir must be FULL for this procedure
1.Tip the sled onto its left side;then using a torx-bit,remove the screws securing the center belly pan(skid plate) to the front end
2.Loosen,but don't remove, the oil bleed screw;then finger-tighten the bleed screw.
3.Tip the snowmobile back to the upright position;then raise the rear of the sled onto a safety stand so the track is at least 24 in. off the ground
4.Place a drain pan beneath the engine compartment;then loosen the bleed screw until oil begins to drain out
5.Allow the oil to drain out until there are no visible signs of air bubbles in the oil-line hose;then tighten the bleed screw.
6.Lower the rear of the sled,tip the sled onto its left side, ensure the bleed screw is secure, and install the center belly pan(skid plate)
NOTE: Prior to operating the snowmobile, make sure the oil reservoir is full of recommended oil
Hope this helps!
Basic Points:
-may develope bubble if on mag side(right) for extended period of time,especially if oil tank not full
-if bubble is visible - purge oil-injection system
WARRNING-DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE OR OPERATE SNOWMOBILE WITH AN AIR BUBBLE IN THE OIL-LINE HOSE.DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE MAY OCCUR.
To Purge:
NOTE: The oil reservoir must be FULL for this procedure
1.Tip the sled onto its left side;then using a torx-bit,remove the screws securing the center belly pan(skid plate) to the front end
2.Loosen,but don't remove, the oil bleed screw;then finger-tighten the bleed screw.
3.Tip the snowmobile back to the upright position;then raise the rear of the sled onto a safety stand so the track is at least 24 in. off the ground
4.Place a drain pan beneath the engine compartment;then loosen the bleed screw until oil begins to drain out
5.Allow the oil to drain out until there are no visible signs of air bubbles in the oil-line hose;then tighten the bleed screw.
6.Lower the rear of the sled,tip the sled onto its left side, ensure the bleed screw is secure, and install the center belly pan(skid plate)
NOTE: Prior to operating the snowmobile, make sure the oil reservoir is full of recommended oil
Hope this helps!
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156 Posts
OK you guys are going to think I'm F;;kn crazy but here goes. I have only ridden 65 miles and before the ride I noticed a bubble in the oil line between the Primary and secondary as described above. I called the dealer and he told me to ride it it would be fine. So off I went and he was right it was fine, I used about .5 quart of oil. Upon checking the oil line I noticed the bubble still there.
Well being who I am this was not right and had to be fixed. I read the above post on how to purge the oil line and that sounded like alot of work so, and here it comes, I lifted the rear of the sled about shoulder high and the bubble quickly traveled to the connector in the tank but would go no further. I lifted the sled higher and still it would not move. So if you look at your oil cap it has a vent hole in it. With the cap on tight and alittle suction from yours truly, I heard a little girgle and just like that no more bubble in the oil line.
PS, make sure you lock the garage door before sucking on your sled. :wub:
Well being who I am this was not right and had to be fixed. I read the above post on how to purge the oil line and that sounded like alot of work so, and here it comes, I lifted the rear of the sled about shoulder high and the bubble quickly traveled to the connector in the tank but would go no further. I lifted the sled higher and still it would not move. So if you look at your oil cap it has a vent hole in it. With the cap on tight and alittle suction from yours truly, I heard a little girgle and just like that no more bubble in the oil line.
PS, make sure you lock the garage door before sucking on your sled. :wub:
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807 Posts
now i know why we call u the "shameful one". 
no one keeps a secret in this forum.... not even using a pickup truck chained to a visegrip to pull the hyfax off.
no one keeps a secret in this forum.... not even using a pickup truck chained to a visegrip to pull the hyfax off.
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164 Posts
If just raising the back of the sled doesn't get the bubble out, then put a 4x4 wooden block under the right ski, then raise the back of the sled. It should run the bubble right back up into the tank. By the way, the very next time that you make a hard left turn with a low oil tank, or sidehill to the left with a low oil tank, etc. (I think you get the picture) the bubble will re-appear. There simply isn't enough "drop" from the tank fitting to the pump, combined the oil being carried in a very wide tank. Having the fitting on the oil tank all the way to one side doesn't help either. It wouldn't surprise me a bit if we see the oil tank fitting in a different spot on the 03 F-Cats. Or at least a baffled chamber inside the tank to ensure an adequate supply at the outlet fitting.
Guys that trailer their sleds on a 2 place may never notice the oil bubble problem. I've noticed that as soon as I drop my trailer in the garage, the oil bubble disappears. With the tongue resting on the floor, there's enough of a forward tilt that the oil bubble runs back up to the tank. On the other occasions when I've hauled my sled in the back of my pickup and then dragged it out onto the garage floor, the bubble was always present. That all goes back to the not enough "drop" from the tank fitting to the pump issue.
All that said, I still don't think a small bubble in the line behind the secondary is really a big deal. Like others have mentioned, the pump doesn't flow a full oil line width of oil. As long as there are no bubbles near the pump itself, you should be good to go. Much ado about next to nothing if you ask me. The only reason that Cat will fix it is because they'll get tired of getting questions about it.
The only time I see the potential for a problem is if you were VERY low on oil and were sidehilling to the left, or cornering hard to the left, for a VERY long time.
huz
Guys that trailer their sleds on a 2 place may never notice the oil bubble problem. I've noticed that as soon as I drop my trailer in the garage, the oil bubble disappears. With the tongue resting on the floor, there's enough of a forward tilt that the oil bubble runs back up to the tank. On the other occasions when I've hauled my sled in the back of my pickup and then dragged it out onto the garage floor, the bubble was always present. That all goes back to the not enough "drop" from the tank fitting to the pump issue.
All that said, I still don't think a small bubble in the line behind the secondary is really a big deal. Like others have mentioned, the pump doesn't flow a full oil line width of oil. As long as there are no bubbles near the pump itself, you should be good to go. Much ado about next to nothing if you ask me. The only reason that Cat will fix it is because they'll get tired of getting questions about it.
The only time I see the potential for a problem is if you were VERY low on oil and were sidehilling to the left, or cornering hard to the left, for a VERY long time.
huz
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