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Breaking In New Snowmobile

1K views 22 replies 16 participants last post by  Racer X # 9 
#1 ·
Just bought an 05 f7 and I was wondering about the break in process. Guy at the dealer said atleast a tank of gas and to mix some oil into the first tank of gas.

What are your experiences and opinions?
 
#7 ·
If I remember correctly, there was an engineer at AC a few years back (GLS on Amsnow.com) who said to not go past 1/2 throttle for the first half of your pre-mix tank. Then, the second half of the tank, give periodic bursts of full throttle and vary your speed. After that, ride it like you stole it.
 
#8 ·
It's important to properly warm-up the engine. Heat cycle the engine a couple times using varying throttle up on a jack stand, no higher that 4000 to 4500 rpm's. Making sure you don't overheat the engine. Then when you actually ride it, use varying throttle with short bursts of wide open throttle for the first tank premix gas. Then always properly warm-up the engine. Longevity of these high compression engines depends on it.
 
#10 ·
if you're new to firecats, just a fyi is that they always need to be properly warmed up - there has been many stories of people not letting the warm up all the way then putting the hammer down and frying stuff. they just seem to be more sensitive than most sleds.
btw Congrats and welcome to the firecat club.
:beerchug:
 
#11 ·
Originally posted by ToddUF7@Sep 12 2005, 11:40 AM
It's important to properly warm-up the engine. Heat cycle the engine a couple times using varying throttle up on a jack stand, no higher that 4000 to 4500 rpm's. Making sure you don't overheat the engine. Then when you actually ride it, use varying throttle with short bursts of wide open throttle for the first tank premix gas. Then always properly warm-up the engine. Longevity of these high compression engines depends on it.
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[/quote] Heat cycling is the most important part of break in.Let engine reach operating temp and shut it down and cool down COMPLETELY.Repeat 3-4 times.
 
#12 ·
as far as the motor and oil ratio i wouldnt be concerned with any break-in... these things are running very rich oil ratio bone stock... my dealer actually told me to only use half as much pre-mix in the tank... :dance2:

thats rediculous... if there is something wrong bad enough to break down under those conditions, no amount of oil is going to save you... :flush:

i didnt add any pre-mix...

and after 200 miles i adjusted the oil ratio back up to where it should be...

50 to 60 to 1 ratio...

if you do add pre-mix definatly change the plugs after that tank...

im not saying that nobody should add pre-mix... to me it makes no sence... you do what you want... :beerchug:

as far as break-in i would take it easy the first 30-40 miles for the belt... those things are too expensive to break... :doh:

always make sure you give plenty of warm up time on these F-chassis sleds...
 
#13 ·
Originally posted by zr8guy@Sep 12 2005, 12:27 PM
as far as the motor and oil ratio i wouldnt be concerned with any break-in...  these things are running very rich oil ratio bone stock...  my dealer actually told me to only use half as much pre-mix in the tank...    :dance2:

thats rediculous...  if there is something wrong bad enough to break down under those conditions,  no amount of oil is going to save you...    :flush:

i didnt add any pre-mix... 

and after 200 miles i adjusted the oil ratio back up to where it should be...

50 to 60 to 1 ratio... 

if you do add pre-mix definatly change the plugs after that tank... 

im not saying that nobody should add pre-mix...  to me it makes no sence...  you do what you want...    :beerchug:

as far as break-in i would take it easy the first 30-40 miles for the belt...  those things are too expensive to break...    :doh:

always make sure you give plenty of warm up time on these F-chassis sleds...
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[/quote]

The premix is a good idea just incase there are air bubbles in the oil line from the factory. By the time a full tank has been run the air bubbles are gone. My buddy blew his sled up exactly for that reason. He always runs a tank of premix now on a new sled. :flush:
 
#17 ·
Originally posted by 98 Thundercat@Sep 12 2005, 02:27 PM
The premix is a good idea just incase there are air bubbles in the oil line from the factory. By the time a full tank has been run the air bubbles are gone. My buddy blew his sled up exactly for that reason. He always runs a tank of premix now on a new sled. :flush:
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[/quote]


this is basically the only reason why you would run pre-mix... or a close inspection of the oil line for bubbles is what i did...

also you could just jack up the back of the sled for a few days too... any air should come up...
 
#18 ·
Its not the air bubles in the line to the pump that cause trouble, its a pump that is air bound from never being bled.

Krom
 
#19 ·
Originally posted by Krom@Sep 12 2005, 07:17 PM
Its not the air bubles in the line to the pump that cause trouble, its a pump that is air bound from never being bled.

Krom
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if its air bound then thats dealers fault..... all that air will still work its way out before the next tank of gas??? :dunno:

thats BS if the dealer doesnt do that... it only takes a sec to disconnect the linkage and pull it wide open to get the air out... :frech32: :flush: :drunk:
 
#20 ·
if your under factory warranty try like hell to blow the engine to pieces. I blew mine sky high at 900 miles. :dance2:

if she don't blow you need to ride harder

beat the crap out of it,,, good luck :div20: :div20: :div20: :div20:

Giver hell///get 'r'done :frech11:

real men destroy f7's :celebrating:
 
#23 ·
Ride it like a rental and just pin it j/k. Everybody has different methods. My fastest sleds were always the ones that I was the hardest on right out of the crate. When you baby them they seem to turn into turds. JMO.
 
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