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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone having problems with brake light not coming on unless you lock the track up.Can not find any adjustments but you have to squeeze hard to make it light.
 

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probably has to do with the switch mounted on the brake lever. Its that cylinder shaped thing that sticks out. I notice mine is loose and wiggles.
 

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Mine only comes on when the track is locked up. I forgot to look at it when I was wrenching last night. Let me know what you find.

Chris
 

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Originally posted by F7_Ditch_Jumper@Jan 22 2003, 06:25 PM
probably has to do with the switch mounted on the brake lever. Its that cylinder shaped thing that sticks out. I notice mine is loose and wiggles.
Really?? What wire is attached to that switch??? That is not the brake switch. The brakes on the F-series must be tied into the same assembly that contains the high/low beam switch.

Oh BTW, Cats have been this was for years, if anything, these are better than past models.
 

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Originally posted by Jay+Jan 23 2003, 03:21 AM-->
<!--QuoteBegin-F7_Ditch_Jumper
@Jan 22 2003, 06:25 PM
probably has to do with the switch mounted on the brake lever.  Its that cylinder shaped thing that sticks out.  I notice mine is loose and wiggles.
Really?? What wire is attached to that switch??? That is not the brake switch. The brakes on the F-series must be tied into the same assembly that contains the high/low beam switch.

Oh BTW, Cats have been this was for years, if anything, these are better than past models.[/b]
It looked like a switch?! ;) well thats really a spring. Number 15 is the switch.

 

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I thought that you were talking about #16 originally right?? If not then, my bad.

The old ZR/ZL style brake setup used #16 as the brake switch. Th only thing the F-series uses that for is to put some "return" pressure on the highbeam/brake switch.

EDIT: OOPS! I had the wrong #, I fixed it now.
 

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Yep ur right. Just thought it was odd to put that pointy thing out there and not have a purpose of it other than a spring. That spring looks expensive to manufacture. Spring =$1.00 Plastic Brake Lever=$0.03 The smile on my face when i put the lever to the bar = Priceless.
 

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wow got hot and heavy with diagrams and everything man i love cat riders. try adjusting it . it has some play in the locating tab so loosen the bolt and tweak it a little hold it and retest. if it works on a handful of brake the switch assy pn#15 is working may not be set sensitive but its working. dont forget to retighten the bolt or we might need a whole lot more parts diagrams
 

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I'm probably going to purchase a ZR turn down brake handle and will have to drill the hole for the switch. I may try drilling it in a slightly different location and tighten up the slop, to try and get the brake light to come on sooner. My tail light blew the other night on a ride, and my buddies following me pointed out that they thought my brake light was out also. When I pulled the handle hard it came on. Track is well locked up way before this though. That is definitely an improvement AC could make.

catfish
 

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I agree AC needs to look into this. This is a "SAFTEY" item, lawsuits award large sums of money to people for things like this.
 

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Originally posted by mrfreeze@Jan 22 2003, 05:55 PM
Anyone having problems with brake light not coming on unless you lock the track up.Can not find any adjustments but you have to squeeze hard to make it light.
:wacko: I had this problem last weekend. The guys thought I was nuts. But, if I tap the brakes, like I do through corners, the light doesn't come on. If I lock up the track, it comes on. But, I have to pull on the lever kind of hard. That whole design isn't the greatest. But, what the hell?? :huh:
 

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Standard Cat problem. I always had to file the switch down so I could blink the light with a touch of the lever. The new one isn't adjustable (had mine apart last night). Looks like you can rewire it to the old style switch easy enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Guys, found the fix on the brake light. Take off the lever and file part of the material off where it engages with the master cylinder piston. Just did it. Works awsome. I should be able to keep my tail light-lol.
 

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I haven't had mine apart yet, so can you tell me the part #? Also how much are you filing off? I should be able to figure it out after I take it apart but, every bit of info helps. I would be VERY happy to see this fix work. Thanks for sharing this info.



Green F7 Snow Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just take about one eighth inch of material off handle where it contacts the plunger coming out of resovoir. You will be able to tell where to remove material just by looking at it.
 

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I assume you've still got plenty of travel left before getting close to the handle bar? I'm a little hesitant to adjust the amount of travel on the plunger. I'd rather adjust when the light comes on.
I'm going to look into buying the old style and wire it in.
 

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Originally posted by mrfreeze@Jan 25 2003, 06:08 PM
Just take about one eighth inch of material off handle where it contacts the plunger coming out of resovoir. You will be able to tell where to remove material just by looking at it.
IMO, that is ***NOT*** a good idea to do that, as you will increase the throw of the lever... ESPECIALLY if you remove 1/8" off the plunger activator part of the lever. In the past, I've always shimmed my plungers to have a short a throw as possible, and carefully ground down the brake light activator switch so it'd come on before the brake pads would actually start slowing the sled down. I liked this because then I could do a couple quick taps of the brake lever to signal riders behind me, but without actually having to slow down. I kinda' miss that red brake light indicator that Polaris has on their gauges, that lets you know when your brake light is activated.

I took apart the brake switch assembly tonight on my F7, but I still don't have a clue as to how to adjust it so the brake light comes on sooner. While I had things apart, I filed down the parking brake lock lever a BUNCH, so you could lock the brake much easier without feeling like you were going to blow the brake line apart. -- Roy
 
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