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Firecat Rear Suspension Settings

When testing our F7 and F5 sleds, earlier this winter, it became very apparent that the sleds were very sensitive to body weight and positioning. Under extreme acceleration, the front end would lift (and sometimes not come down for a long ways), and would react dramatically to the shifting of your body weight from side to side. It was nearly to the point that it was uncomfortable to ride at times.

The second week of testing, we took a good look at the rear suspension and made some adjustments to allow the vehicle to have a more "firm" ride in the above mentioned conditions. We re-positioned the coupler blocks to the #3 position from #1, and also placed the rear spring retainers in the center position. After making these adjustments, we went out to test and found that the vehicle acted completely differently. The sled had a fair amount of ski pressure, and acted very "firm" under acceleration and in the few bumps, we were able to find, on our wind swept lake.

We then went back in and put a slightly more aggressive spring tension on the shock of the front arm of the rear suspension. This adjustment produced the ride we were looking for. We were able to maintain an aggressive level of acceleration, while still being able to steer with ease.

The highlight of these simple adjustments is that they will cost you nothing but time to do, with the ability to have a vehicle that will act and react as you want for your personal riding style. Take the time to make simple adjustments like this on your new sled--whether it is a Firecat or of the ZR heritage. The more you learn about the tuning of this for your liking, the better your snowmobile experience will be.
 

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sounds like a lot of noise about nothing..

lets see... they moved the coupler blocks to #3 and the spring blocks to #2 and tested it on a lake. Then they add front arm tension (which the performance manual says not to) and they say it "steers with ease" presumably on the same "wind swept lake".

No mention of limiter strap position or IFS settings, Hmmmmmmmmmm.... sounds like a lot of time and effort went into that test ;) ^_^

:D :lol: :D :lol: :D
 

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Mine is too stiff.... coupler block on 3, rear spring on 1. Need too loosn the front spring preasure.... and shorten the strap in front. Im 63kg/140lbs and its way too stiff...

F7 sno pro
 

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why would you say blackmagic sucks?
they are offering their oppinion, no different than any of us,
i've always had good luck with bm's services
 

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Originally posted by dave cat 7@Jan 5 2003, 12:15 PM
why would you say blackmagic sucks?
they are offering their oppinion, no different than any of us,
i've always had good luck with bm's services
You're one of the very few lucky ones then
 

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I did exactly what rob suggested. Move the bolts in limiter straps to the 2nd hole, take all the preload off of the front shock and the two ski shocks. Take the "No good" sales picth coupler blocks out and man does this SOB ride now!! I haven't been able to try it in powder because are snow is shot now. All hard pack. It's been 45 degrees for the last 2 days and today the wind is blowing 30 mph and really takin it. Wheather man calling for 40-60 mph tonight!! Need more snow! Bad!!
Listen to Rob. Not BM. I'm sure he's got more miles on his sled then anyone from BM.
 

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:blink: I've also had good luck with Black Magic. I own Rory's test sled which is a 01' Sno pro with 711 Invader carbed. Only sled I've seen beat an F7, cuz I was on it. Goodwin didn't beleive it either, but did it 2 out of 2 races. Anyway, own an F7 SP aswell. Great sled!!
 

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Just remember it is up to the individual rider, some like more ski lift, some don't. It is something you need to approach slowly, making one change at a time. Make sure you understand how all of the components you are adjusting interact.
 
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That's how it's done one change at a time. That's how Rob got his setup, would reccomend to do Rob's set up one part at a time, you may find your sled and wheight combo may vary from his. not to mention driving style and conditions of snow.
 

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Like he said you are one of the lucky few. I and everyone I know has had poor quality service and product from BM. It is a well known fact, not to mention certain indidviduals peoples skills there leave alot to be desired.

As for the coupling block issue, I have never set a Cat up with the coupling blocks in it, always perferred them without as have people we did it for. I stated so a month or so ago on here and someone agreed who was a Poo convert and had the same experience. Had several guys say that ride quality is not compromised. In fact had a couple individuals complain about kick back last year until we took the blocks out. I know this goes against some suspension theories but that is my experience.
 

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Originally posted by Thumper@Jan 9 2003, 01:00 AM
As for the coupling block issue, I have never set a Cat up with the coupling blocks in it, always perferred them without as have people we did it for. I stated so a month or so ago on here and someone agreed who was a Poo convert and had the same experience. Had several guys say that ride quality is not compromised. In fact had a couple individuals complain about kick back last year until we took the blocks out. I know this goes against some suspension theories but that is my experience.
That was me that agreed with you on the no couplers theory a month ago or so Thump. Yes, I tried that on my (excellent!) '02 XC800 and never put the couplers back in -- biggest improvement overall to that sled that I made! Better weight transfer, better traction, noticeably better ride, and most importantly... just plain old MORE FUN! -- Roy
 

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:angry: anyone that has had good luck with BM is just plain a very lucky person!!!
 

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MAYBE THATS WHY TUCKER HIBBERT USES SPEEDWERKS ENGINES IN HIS MOD SLED!!
THEY ARE LOCATED RIGHT BEHIND A.C.'S PLANT IN MINNESOTA, YOU WOULD THINK THAT WOULD HELP
I PERSONALLY HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH THEM
BUT MAJORITY RULES
 

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I have my blocks on 2 on my F7 SP. I will be moving them back to 1 and maybe trying them out of the sled.
What are the potential long term problems that may be caused by taking the blocks out? My 2000 ZR 600 is pre-coupling but I thought I heard that the coupled sleds are set-up and valved differently.


Kevin
 
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