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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, picking up a super low mile unmolested F1000. Besides the Y-pipe what are some other bolt-ons that will really make it run? Does it need a clutch kit? It has the Cobra track in it and I don’t plan to stud it, I like to tail slide corners and I think the Cobra is a sweet track without studs. Thanks.
 

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Checking motor mounts and putting a torque link on it would be high on my list. I like a torsion spring in the secondary clutch, check that clutch bushing while you're at it, they are notorious
 

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Best year for stock 1000 IMHO, torsional works well (1-2 more mpg for me) but compression works good too with a Fett Bros yellow/pink spring, stock primary is pretty good. I would add at least 100? (2 per pattern) studs but I like studs for stopping also. Lastly the best money I spent on my 1000 was a pair of 6.7 Pilot skis with 7.5 shapers and 4" whatever on the outside, no darting and like power steering.
 

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If you can find one, Plowman mount to keep the engine in place.
Yes stock clutching is pretty darn good on the 08 but BMP torsional works just that much better.
Agree on studs, even heavily studded sled will drift the corners with ease, run down the center only.
Y pipe, works best with a fuel controller such as Boondocker, either way pipe means premium fuel only.
If it's a Sno Pro, dramatic improvement in ride ditching the air shocks for LXR version coil overs. Also good gains in ride quality having rears revalved.
Skis, after trying a bunch of em out there, settled on SLP / SLT for skis, also liked the Doo Pilot skis but lil too much push in loose snow. Loved the Simmons (tried both Gen I and Gen III but you do pay a penalty on effort to turn the skis on frozen hardpack.
Can't stress how much difference in clutch life you'll see keeping them blown clean between rides.
Be sure to remove the lower air box and add Gorilla tape to the outside where exposed.
While I really liked my 07 F1000, the 08 was a much better sled out of the box.
 

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Best year for stock 1000 IMHO, torsional works well (1-2 more mpg for me) but compression works good too with a Fett Bros yellow/pink spring, stock primary is pretty good. I would add at least 100? (2 per pattern) studs but I like studs for stopping also. Lastly the best money I spent on my 1000 was a pair of 6.7 Pilot skis with 7.5 shapers and 4" whatever on the outside, no darting and like power steering.
Aftermarket skis are a must
 

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Remove coupler blocks
plowman mount
servo motor delete, bdx powervalves
full exhaust, be mind full of BMP products that year I blew 3 expansion chambers on my 07 because the welds and gauge metal used by bmp was too thin
torsion clutch
bdx diamond drive gears
4 arm primary is better than 3, but look for cracking on the inner sheave
Make sure airbox is sealed
bullseyes in airbox
vforce reeds
 

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Plowman mount on mine broke within the first winter. Doesn't matter. Sled still works great and doesn't vibrate like a mofo anymore.

Otherwise, the only things I did to mine were a y-pipe and BMP torsional conversion in the secondary ... works awesome. I'm also running Simmons Gen1 skis. Had this setup for 7 seasons now, and still loving it.
 

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What’s the advantage of the BMP torsional conversion over stock?
It basically makes the clutch more "efficient", and you'll literally see a difference in fuel economy, since the heavy compression spring is thrown out and replaced with a spring that actually assists the "twisting" action of the secondary clutch. It's how all the old clutches used to work. Some guys have had success with the factory compression setup, but I just don't see the advantages of it.

Sorry, not much of a technical explanation, other than to say, the torsional is a more efficient, thus (IMO) more effective setup.

FWIW, my sled would ALWAYS beat my Dad's '07 F1000 at the pumps, until last year, we finally converted his over, and now we're basically identical (he's even beat me on mileage, which NEVER happened before). Unfortunately, we never had a chance for clean runs last year to measure changes in performance, but mine always out-ran his as well, and I do believe his was pulling harder as well, but again, never got a proper run to prove one way or the other.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It basically makes the clutch more "efficient", and you'll literally see a difference in fuel economy, since the heavy compression spring is thrown out and replaced with a spring that actually assists the "twisting" action of the secondary clutch. It's how all the old clutches used to work. Some guys have had success with the factory compression setup, but I just don't see the advantages of it.

Sorry, not much of a technical explanation, other than to say, the torsional is a more efficient, thus (IMO) more effective setup.

FWIW, my sled would ALWAYS beat my Dad's '07 F1000 at the pumps, until last year, we finally converted his over, and now we're basically identical (he's even beat me on mileage, which NEVER happened before). Unfortunately, we never had a chance for clean runs last year to measure changes in performance, but mine always out-ran his as well, and I do believe his was pulling harder as well, but again, never got a proper run to prove one way or the other.

Is this the best kit? https://bikemanperformance.com/bmp-complete-torsional-conversion-kit.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Best year for stock 1000 IMHO, torsional works well (1-2 more mpg for me) but compression works good too with a Fett Bros yellow/pink spring, stock primary is pretty good. I would add at least 100? (2 per pattern) studs but I like studs for stopping also. Lastly the best money I spent on my 1000 was a pair of 6.7 Pilot skis with 7.5 shapers and 4" whatever on the outside, no darting and like power steering.
For the 6.7 pilots what did you use for mounts?
 

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What kind of rpm should the F1000 pull? I’m only seeing 7200 when I hit it.
7200-7250 rpm at WOT is the number area you want,,
I don't think (not 100%) Pilot ski's will bolt directly to our spindles,,
I currently run a CFR 1000 with a Y pipe, V-Force, trail ported and cylinder to case matched, lower airbox is sealed with a horn intake, running 91+ octane no fuel controller and its an extremely strong package. I also run a 1.32 cobra but lightly studded.
Secondary has Formula 1-X hub and bushing mod,
Services - Formula X-1 which is a must for the notoriously weak/bad stocker. I also have a BMP torsion conversion kit in it.
Magnaforce weights (I'd go Dalton quick adjust if I did it again)
Make sure your clutching offset is correct by using the 1.507" alignment bar.
I run SLP Sno-Pro ski's with their Cat mounts, I also have a set of SLP SLT's but I do ride some back country so I went with the extra flotation of the Sno Pro's with no change in handling on the trails vs SLT's which is excellent.
So with your machine with a Y-Pipe IMHO I'd go
1. Make sure the airbox is sealed
2. Formula 1-X hub/bushing mod.
3. BMP conversion kit
4. SLP Sno-Pros or SLT's or other non AC ski's.
5. Dalton Quick Adjust weights.

cheers :bc2:
 

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Don't waste time or money on Pilots. Tried them and they were garbage on anything but groomed hard pack. And they are cheap plastic. Get real skis like C&As so it actually turns when you want it to.
 
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