A friend of mine took his blocks out of his zr9 and raced a zr with blocks in and he said the zr9 with them in got him by 4-5 lengths out of the hole because he got to much weight transfer. So i would say keep it stock or adjust them for more but dont take them out. You can try them to see how they work.
Take the blocks OUT.......blocks=ski pressure. You will never see a drag racer with coupling blocks in. The first thing I did was take the plastic off the block.....tried that and still want more transfer so I will be taking them right out. I dont even care for them when riding the trails or ditches.....
That is ture you want some weight transfer to drag race, but if you have seen a good drag sled set-up, its not doing wheelies. It would have the skis 6" of the ground for most of the track. Once you do a wheelie, there is a good chance to break the track loose because there in little or no presure on the front slide rails. Not putting the track to the ground.
I find that half way down the stretch your skies have alot of pressure on them........I know you guys are not going to hear this but the last time I was out racing I had my couplers in and a stock ZR800>>geared 23/40 blew past me like I was standing still at the half way point>>>>>his couplers were out and you could see his skies hovering about 3 inches off the ground.........perfect as far as I am concerned>>>>>>>>> Its like I could feel my front end dragging..............blocks are OUTA here>>>>>>one more note ....these F7's are NOT short track machines they will react differently than a 121
Arctic Cat added a coupled suspension 2 years ago or so for that reason. In the past, w/o the couplers, there was WAY too much ski lift for racing applications (needed more track on the snow). So...they added the couplers to eliminate this. Regardless, none of this means a damn thing. All of us ride in a different position, have different weights, and have different thumbs. One set-up does not fit all!
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