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Discussion Starter #1
Gents,

Is anyone else experiencing thier back end wanting to turn 180degree's under icy packed snow....? Is this me or is there something I might want to check with my set up?

I will say this....I was waiting to put atleast 500miles on before studding but it is simply to wild to ride without them...

I'm thinking that it may be a combo of narrow track and longer sled...but it is like nothing I have rode before.////

Would be interested in hearing if anyone else finds the back end extremely volatile. ? Also if you have studded your F7 does it tighten up the back end in slick corners...

Please advise?
 

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I like the back end loose like that. I can whip it in the turns. Just gotta play with throttle/brake/leaning to get it to doo what you want.
 

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i have been trackside up on plowed hardpack roads as far as im concerned my f7sp is too dangerous to mess with on that type of surface. wont turn and a flip of the throttle and im sideways. i just got 6in woody carbides from dan to see if that helps turning corners. also have started playing with set up. check your front ski shock setup i had 48 threads showing from the top i adjusted gradually to 36 threads showing and darting has decreased and turning has improved this seems weird because i thought more ski pressure means better turning but increased darting. i think the next move will be to set ski shocks at 30 and coupling on 1 im at 2 now will see how that goes when updates are completed good luck. oh also next upgrades will be running board grips and studs B)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Big Dog...that's precisely what I am talking about hard packed roads and icy corners....if you have to brake or accelerate hard in a corner....your done.

I just put on the 6" carbides and it helps the front but not the back....I am hoping the studs will make it a little more stable..
 

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let me know if those studs help out envy sure would like to pin the flipper on hard pack without rolling ow!
 

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let me know if those studs help out envy sure would like to pin the flipper on hard pack without rolling ow!
 
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Studs! not only are they good for acceleration,cornering but they work real good for braking. It's like night and day.
 

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After 230 miles I started playing with the suspension once I read Rob's and others posts Look for them in the board it makes a hell of a differance!!! I started buy loosening the front spring in the skid, then started messing with the front shock springs all I can say is WOW! I only wish the dealers would take the few seconds to do this I think people would be able to handle these sleds better because they are a differant Cat...I road on some really nice logging roads today in the U.P. and the differance was unreal!

F700SP
 

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Originally posted by Firefighter@Jan 19 2003, 09:55 PM
After 230 miles I started playing with the suspension once I read Rob's and others posts Look for them in the board it makes a hell of a differance!!! I started buy loosening the front spring in the skid, then started messing with the front shock springs all I can say is WOW! I only wish the dealers would take the few seconds to do this I think people would be able to handle these sleds better because they are a differant Cat...I road on some really nice logging roads today in the U.P. and the differance was unreal!

F700SP
thanks for writing that..

I'm seeing posts on ther boards about "how bad" the Firecat handles.. It is too bad that dealers (and the factory) didn't set our sleds up better before we got them..

Oh well, at least it is easy to do :rolleyes:
 

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I picked my sno-pro track with 96, and the ass end can still come around in certain conditions. I think it's the deep lugs on the ice and the power.
 

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I have 6 inch stud boy shaper bars up front. On the icy corners in the keeweenaw, the front end hooked up but the back would slide around, If I took it slow and anticipated this everything would go well, but not every corner was icy and some of the ice was hidden by fresh snow. Plus as the traffic increased I was no longer able to comfortably slide around a corner w/o the fear of hitting someone coming from the opposite direction. I have my limiter strap at 2nd hole, which work fine for ski pressure when the carbides were new, now that they have worn down some, the front end started to slide on the icy corners. I checked the bides and I still have some left so, now I am going to increase ski pressure by adjusting the preload on my front aws shocks and I am studding the track to keep the back end hooked up better. My sway bar broke the first day so I am not sure if that compromised my ability to rail corners, I didn't detect any body roll in the corners but it may have been subtle enough that I missed it..
 

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hmm thats odd. that is where i think my sled shines the best is on the trail. of course i am used to riding a raptor, banshee, and quadracer so i know how to ride a little more agressive on the trails. i would not trade the f7 for anything except an f8. my buddy and i lined up the other night. he has a sxr 700 triple yamaha. absolutely no contest. we switched sleds and same thing. he was so far ahead of me on my sled. i had that sxr's throttle pinned. sounded like it was doin a stroke of work as i watched mine dissapear ahead of me. he was literaly half a footballs field ahead of me on my F7.
 

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Originally posted by czy42strokes@Jan 20 2003, 07:22 AM
...which work fine for ski pressure when the carbides were new, now that they have worn down some, the front end started to slide on the icy corners. I checked the bides and I still have some left so, now I am going to increase ski pressure by adjusting the preload on my front aws shocks...
Please don't even bother trying to increase the ski pressure to make your used/broken-in carbides bite into the ice -- it's NOT going to happen no matter how much pressure you add. The ONLY way your carbides will will bite into the ice is when they're brand spankin' new, and the way conditions are for many of us this winter -- lack of SNOW base -- you're lucky if the cutting edge of the carbide stays sharp enough to cut the ice for even one day!!! This problem is made even worse with the cold weather most of us are experiencing right now. Very old temps = VERY hard ice for both the carbides AND the studs! Must be EXTRA careful on the trails with the ice underneath, especially with those snow covered icy corners! -- Roy
 

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get the f- cat pointed straight before you gorilla grip the throttle, i havent studded a track in two years
just ride a little different now!
marginal snow this year also contributes to some of these problems, wait till there is 2 feet of snow on the trails and the sno-pro track will kick-butt
 

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I think I know why the back ends slide on ice even with studs. Work with me here. The track has no studs or WHEELS on the outside of the rails. Therefore when the sled tips slightly the track can flex and begin to tip on the outside where there are no studs. Its just a slight tip, but that's all it takes to pick the center of the track up and lift the studs off the surface. Think about it. Hard to explain.
Cat S.
 
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