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Super Advanced Lummox
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:banghead: :tease: is my mood at the moment

I installed my new APV cable yesterday

Now the damn sled is getting way to much gas and not enuff air

I smokes big time when giving her gas

checked the choke cables took them out and put them back

Adjusted the fuel mixture screws 2 turns as per manual

The air screw is all the way in,as per manual

The only thing dif this week compare to last is I put 310main jets,had 300s before and the new APV cable

The APV cable do cycle when started as

So I stumped big time here

1st it was no fuel and now its too much

I took the shelf off and ran it like that and you can see the fuel spit out

The sled idles fine,BUT I have to have the idle screw almost all the way to idle at 1500,before I could make it idle 3000 + if I had the screw in that far

when I give her gas its seems to have too much fuel

this is my 1st sled with Flatslides so I am not used to the fuel screw and air screws on the rounds it was just a air/fuel screw

Could my APVs cause this problem

I adjusted them at 34mm

+ my oil light is on all the time

I am about drop a match in the tank

I am so frustrated this year with no snow and now all these simple problems that I can not figure out

I am sure it is such a simple problem but for the life of me I do not know or have the time or expertise to screw around with it anymore

Help me

give me some ideas

Thanx for reading my whining
 

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Not sure why installing a new APV cable has anything to do with the sled having carb problems.

I would go back with where you started. Did you reassemble the APV correctly? If you put it in backwards you might have problems.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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YEA SOME CARB SPECS. ARE BALLPARK #'s. AIR HAS TO BE OPEN SOMEWHAT.TRY 1 3/4 ON FUEL AND 1/2 ON AIR.THEN GO FROM THERE BY CHECKING PLUGS AND THROOTLE RESPONSE.LAST COUPLE OF CARBED CATS I'VE HAD DID NOT WANT ALOT OF AIR. CHECK IT OUT. P.S. OH YEA MAKE SURE YOUR EXHAUST VALVE IS NOT UPSIDE DOWN. DIMPLE IN VALVE GOES DOWN.
 

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I'd go back and verify your settings / assembly. Air screw is the small brass one and Fuel is the one with the plastic ring (just in case your having one of my days)

Are you sure on the air screw? if it is zero out that would be the first I've seen.

Other things, choke not set right, float stuck - seen these before.

I feel your pain, been there done that, only difference was it was at night, -20, 2 kids with me and middle of no where. We manged to limp it to the nearest town where it was a bit sheltered from the wind. That day a needle and seat on my formula backed out. I apparently had not tightened it enough after I serviced the sled at the start of the season. Tore it down by flashlight with two frozen, gas soaked hands once I ID'd the culprit.
 

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even if your apv isnt working right it doesnt start to work untill 6000 rpm. the only thing that might happen is if they are not seated all the way in your exhaust port hieght is to high and it makes them a bitch to start, if you can get it to start at all. take off your exhaust and see if they move freely with your finger. if so your got other problems.
 

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The '01s had the small brass washer under the jet that was not secured as the '02 and up ones were. Is it possible this washer could have fallen out when you swapped the mains and if not noticed become jammed somewhere? like up in the float? Very unliklely but I have dropped them off the jet before in a rush and had to pull the bowl off to get it out.
 

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so far I think its the air screw

there is nothing in the 01 manual to say how to set it

I set it as per what I thought themanual said but was told that it was not meant for my flatslides

will update by weekend

thanx for all the suggestions :beer:
Jay[/b]
My hubby has the same sled as you. I can ask him what his is set at if you'd like. Perhaps that'll help?
 

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Maybe this problem is related to theprevious problem. I can't see how an APV cable can have any effect on th efuel delivery in the carb, so I'd say the flooding condition is not related to your APV cable. When you look into the air box, did you see raw fuel pouring out of the passages, or was it spit back? I would have thought reed valves would prevent spit back, but I'm not familiar with them. I'm wondering that maybe whatever was blocking the fuel delivery previously has moved into the inlet needle and seat area and is causing it to flood. I think you have to pull the carbs and clean them, at least one more time, and maybe replace the inlet N&S's.
 

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I would pull carbs and go over them ( clean, inspect and bench adjust them ) then check your valves did you install them upside down ?? ruin pistons ?? while the carbs are off check reeds ... check over all connections in wiring system TPS... etc then report back ...
 

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What's your oil ratio? Maybe it's set too high.
 

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Super Advanced Lummox
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The good sled no longer smokes, but now takes time to go down idle from 3000-down to 1800 it eventually goes down but not to my liking

#1The bad sorta I am running hot,I am thinking it might be air bubbles in my cooling systems as I also changed the coolant hose

Should I raise the front end again 18"

#2 this is my 1st time using BR9eya and they look like I am running lean but not sure if its the EYAs or because they are new I am use to BR9es

I thought I read the EYAs are harder to read I think

The sled is pulling hard but under revving abit at 8100 but only took 3 runs down the lake

I have 56poo,yellow/green prim,and 57/50 with green epi 108lbs

Hey Rick the Ripsaw and studs are nice keeping the skis up when I mash the throttle

I will go out again tomorow on the lake

I feel so much better now that I got some riding done

So anything diferent about EYAs and coolant bleeding that I should do?
 

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The good sled no longer smokes, but now takes time to go down idle from 3000-down to 1800 it eventually goes down but not to my liking

I assume all you did was open the screws?

Set your warm idle speed a little lower.............makes em come down faster / less prone to hanging

#1The bad sorta I am running hot,I am thinking it might be air bubbles in my cooling systems as I also changed the coolant hose

Should I raise the front end again 18"

Raise the front and run with the cap off / raise the back and do the same...........good to go

#2 this is my 1st time using BR9eya and they look like I am running lean but not sure if its the EYAs or because they are new I am use to BR9es

Do yourself a fav and get a light to check via piston wash................it'll save you a set of pistons.

I thought I read the EYAs are harder to read I think

The sled is pulling hard but under revving abit at 8100 but only took 3 runs down the lake

I have 56poo,yellow/green prim,and 57/50 with green epi 108lbs

Hey Rick the Ripsaw and studs are nice keeping the skis up when I mash the throttle

You'll never ride with a lesser track again.................cool aint it??

I will go out again tomorow on the lake

I feel so much better now that I got some riding done



So anything diferent about EYAs and coolant bleeding that I should do?[/b]

I'm a big fan of the EYA's.
 

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Super Advanced Lummox
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ran great today

as for the EYAs I did a few runs and had a hard time reading them

then I stuck my ES back in and did a few runs and I can read them much better

nice golden tan

Put about 30miles on the sled

I did the up front then up back burping of the cooling system, seem ok today after that

The sled is pulling nice and hard

Stayed with a SX 700 even though I am under reving



Next project to fine tune my clutching :)
 
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