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So I know the whole baler/pro xc versus tunnel/pro cc has been discussed at great length, but I'm curious if any Indy xc/xcr owners regret making the switch?
I currently have a 15 ProS 800 Rush and it's lots of fun (only got it last year). I only trail ride, no off trail stuff. Fortunately I bought it right, but now has +5000 miles and I'm starting to consider options. Thinking of Indy xc simply to move into more current chassis (or find an 850 ProS and ride it forever 馃槅.)
I'd appreciate hearing your experiences.
 

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I don鈥檛 regret changing. BUT. No sled on the market cools as well as the bailer. I don鈥檛 have heat issues with my indy Xcr but it does not cool as well as the bailer. In fact there is not a sled on the market by any manu. That controls and maintains running temps as well as it. I like the playfulness and ability to transfer weight etc. as far as the indy goes. I like it a lot. I鈥檓 on my second one. I like the full tunnel for ability to carry cans or whatever with out what I feel is a super ugly set up on the bailer . So far my favorite sled is the 137 pro x. But I made some changes to my indy Xcr this summer so that may change this season.
 

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I didn't really have a choice about switching. I could see the writing on the wall. I really think if my Indy was a 120" instead of a 129", I would be as happy with it as I was with the 120" Rush. I do agree about cooling on the Rush. It would run relatively cool in conditions that would have my Indy at 160 degrees all day. I would have thought Polaris should have learned something after all the hot running problems with the previous straight-tunnel sleds. Its like the sleds need another square foot or so of heat exchanger area - or maybe some fins on the existing exchangers.
 

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Well I think they did learn something. As my buddies doos and cats run warmer than my indy. They def. did a better job on cooling than the old indy. But I agree even more exchanger or small radiator would be better yet
 

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Have any of you guys tried running a longer snow flap to run cooler?.You just have to be really careful in reverse.Ive made many different sleds of different brands run way cooler simply by getting the snow flap on the ground or close to it.Every bit of snow that roosts your buddies behind you could have been used to cool the sled.
 

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Have any of you guys tried running a longer snow flap to run cooler?.You just have to be really careful in reverse.Ive made many different sleds of different brands run way cooler simply by getting the snow flap on the ground or close to it.Every bit of snow that roosts your buddies behind you could have been used to cool the sled.
A friend of mine that is a retired engineer tried that on a cat and made several variations of a snow flap and it made no difference.
 

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I haven鈥檛 tried yet but I was thinking about it this year. Keep in mind I have no problems with heat I鈥檓 just nit picking. And I鈥檓 my head I want it to run 100 degrees.
 

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I was thinking about trying old school flexible sno cross type flap. With a retainer strap around the bumper. But like I said I really don鈥檛 have any heat issue at all. I just want it even cooler.
 

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Have any of you guys tried running a longer snow flap to run cooler?.You just have to be really careful in reverse.Ive made many different sleds of different brands run way cooler simply by getting the snow flap on the ground or close to it.Every bit of snow that roosts your buddies behind you could have been used to cool the sled.
I did extend the flap, but it is difficult to tell whether it made a difference (or how much difference) unless I could somehow install and remove it on the trail for testing. However, it certainly didn't make the problem go away. Let me clarify that the "running warm" issue is only present in spring weather conditions. Melted down trails that are a bit icy early in the day and wet, packed down snow late in the day. Tough conditions to cool in for sure, but the Rush chassis would do pretty well and my FST would barely run warmer than "average". The real issue I have is that snow conditions like these might be 25% of the season for some of us, not just a couple days. Parking the sled when conditions deteriorate a little bit isn't an acceptable option.
 

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I did extend the flap, but it is difficult to tell whether it made a difference (or how much difference) unless I could somehow install and remove it on the trail for testing. However, it certainly didn't make the problem go away. Let me clarify that the "running warm" issue is only present in spring weather conditions. Melted down trails that are a bit icy early in the day and wet, packed down snow late in the day. Tough conditions to cool in for sure, but the Rush chassis would do pretty well and my FST would barely run warmer than "average". The real issue I have is that snow conditions like these might be 25% of the season for some of us, not just a couple days. Parking the sled when conditions deteriorate a little bit isn't an acceptable option.
With ski doo rail mount scratchers i run cooler in my old hot running from the factory pos 900 fuse when others (600 sdi鈥檚, 800pro-s, 600 indy鈥檚, yamaha vr1鈥檚, etc, etc ) have to stop or turn around.

The early morning/late night block hard trails in the spring str still rideable and very fun if crusted up after groomed. Sometimes I have to ho alone because the other riders can鈥檛 go or try to go. They spend more money on dkeds tgsn me but won鈥檛 buy scratchers even after seeing me drive on....makes no srnse. Oh well.
 
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I would say if you really like your pro s then buy another one. In my opinion it is the best cornering / handling sled Polaris has to offer. I have owned multiple pro r鈥檚, x鈥檚 and XCR鈥檚 with the pro xc/bailer and have also owned a 19 129鈥 xc along with a 20 128鈥 xcr with the full tunnel. Last season my xc was down with brake issues apart and waiting for warrantied parts, my kind dealer let me us an 18 pro s switchback for the weekend that was by far better handling than any Polaris sled I have ever owned, the only quirk I had with it was the soft valving on the front track shock which can easily be remedied. I had a difficult time deciding on what I was going to snowcheck for this season the pro s really had me thinking but the VR1 came along and sparked my interest.
 

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Absolutely not, there is nothing to regret. The pro-cc skid is way more adjustable and capable than the abortion otherwise known as the baler. Want a sled that doesn鈥檛 constantly bottom the FTS? Get an Indy. Want a sled you can set up to wheelie? Indy. Want a sled that can also bash big bumps? Indy. Want a sled that you set and forget? Indy. Want a sled that doesn鈥檛 wreck your back when picking it up from the rear? Indy.

If you like causing hernias and rupturing discs by picking up sleds with bumpers that are way too low get a baler. If you like getting stuck in deep, heavy, sticky snow than my all means get a baler. If you like messing with your uncoupled rear skid all the time for each section of trail get a baler. If you like feel a hard jolt through your feet from the FTS bottoming all the time get a baler. If you like to become fast friends with a suspension shop and spend a ton of money always searching for that mythical perfect sweet spot between plushness and bottoming resistance get a baler. If you hate coupling and all the goodness it brings to a sled then by all means buy a baler before they drop the model.
 

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I did extend the flap, but it is difficult to tell whether it made a difference (or how much difference) unless I could somehow install and remove it on the trail for testing. However, it certainly didn't make the problem go away. Let me clarify that the "running warm" issue is only present in spring weather conditions. Melted down trails that are a bit icy early in the day and wet, packed down snow late in the day. Tough conditions to cool in for sure, but the Rush chassis would do pretty well and my FST would barely run warmer than "average". The real issue I have is that snow conditions like these might be 25% of the season for some of us, not just a couple days. Parking the sled when conditions deteriorate a little bit isn't an acceptable option.
Right, if your FST ran warm, look for the coolant leak.
Radiator with an electric fan, front bulkhead cooler, running board coolers, tunnel cooler at the end where the tailflap mounts.

Pulled a big Yamaha with a failed chain case, 50 miles back to Dubreuilville Ontario, on a warm day, he had to run the engine to keep his handwarmers working. 50-60mph on the hills was no problem, had a flagperson/daughter ahead of me so I could roll thru the road crossings, generally in a notch between two hills. After pulling him up onto a snowbank, threw the Yamaha in a local's pickup, and we still made WAWA before dark.
 

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AK440 returns ... I guess 2020 is now complete 馃ぃ
You know Bontz, that post made me realize we don't have a "dislike/thumbs down" icon on this forum.
 
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