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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was changing my carbides and looking around and saw this. you can see the black squares in the middles of these pics. it looks like something was threaded from one side to the other. am i correct? i thought this was the area where the couplers were. am i going crazy? please compare and let me know what yours looks like
 

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ive worked on many 2007 and 2008 twin spar's and i see nothing wrong there.
heres a diagram anyway so you can relax :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
dann

thank you that is great and sets my mind at ease. do you know what # the coupler blocks are? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yep, figured it out. took them out and all i can say is "Holy Crap" does this thing wheelie. it is fun but need to get some wheelie time in otherwise i could see how this could be an issue. i havent switched anything else on the suspension. i may have to do that. definetely a fun factor for sure
 

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The threaded holes are were the bolts on the outside of the rails thread into the black squares which are your coupling blocks. By loosening the bolts and rotating those blocks you change the coupling characteristics of your skid. Just remember to make sure they are marked the same where they contact the rear arm l-ll-lll or llll.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The threaded holes are were the bolts on the outside of the rails thread into the black squares which are your coupling blocks. By loosening the bolts and rotating those blocks you change the coupling characteristics of your skid. Just remember to make sure they are marked the same where they contact the rear arm l-ll-lll or llll.[/b]
crap i didnt look what they were in from the dealer. what do the #'s mean? is I the loosest or vice versa. so you can rotate rather than taking out? i took completely out but maybe a wiser choice would be to just change the setting. do you know how they come from the factory? i know see on the block the 4 different #'s (I, II, III, IIII). thanks for the heads up
 

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mine were on II from dealer. I like them on I, and some are milling them down to make even smaller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so if you go from II to I what does that mean? as you go lower do you get more hook up or less? would it lift the skiis more in pos II or I? what would III or IIII mean? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
is IIII closer to being taken completely out or is I closer to being out? if i think out is too much ski lift, would i go to IIII or I for the next level of ski lift and hook, but not as much as out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You would go to 1 if taking them out is to much ski lift for you. II is even less transfer than 1 and so on.[/b]
so if i put in I position, does that mean i wont get the ski lift from being out, but more ski lift than if it was in the II position? also if i put it in the I spot, does that mean the I on the block would be facing up, forward rear, or down? what indicates what spot it is in. thanks. if there was snow here i could test but cant ride here so i am taking fellow hcser's advice till ?
 

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One is more ski lift than two. Two is more ski lift than three and so on. The number you are on is the number facing forward. The number where the rear arm contacts the block. You can see which side is smaller visually also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
so couplers out is more ski lift than 1 obviosuly. has anyone tried it in the I spot. what was that like? someone said theirs came from the dealer in the II spot, is this normal, i didnt look to see where mine was. i will maybe put in I spot and see how that works. i didnt feel i was getting great hookup, until took coupler out, but seems out of control to me. i want a little less lift and more ability to stter on a dime. thanks for everyones help this has been very informitive.
 

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I love the I spot. Like I said, I may even mill some off of it to make a little more hook up. Just don't want them out.
 
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