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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question 1: Hey folks, I'm sure this has been discussed here before somewhere, but, I have a 1994 Polaris XLT SKS and looking to make it snappier. Somewhere I had read about just changing the primary spring to RED from the stock gold spring ( I'm positive this spring has never been changed ) and adding 10 W Blue weights, and leaving the secondary clutch alone as stock. There are 10 W weights on it now but they are not blue just metal colour looking. Do I need to get new weights, or are the ones currently on it now re usable? Also, should I replace the factory spring with a new one in the secondary as that I believe is original too?

Question 2: I'm also looking to re route carb vent lines to top side of air box with line connectors ( to tidy things up ). I'm told this will make fuel richer. To correct this problem, is it not just a fix to move clip on the needle jet up after running lines to air box?
 

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Question 1: Hey folks, I'm sure this has been discussed here before somewhere, but, I have a 1994 Polaris XLT SKS and looking to make it snappier. Somewhere I had read about just changing the primary spring to RED from the stock gold spring ( I'm positive this spring has never been changed ) and adding 10 W Blue weights, and leaving the secondary clutch alone as stock. There are 10 W weights on it now but they are not blue just metal colour looking. Do I need to get new weights, or are the ones currently on it now re usable? Also, should I replace the factory spring with a new one in the secondary as that I believe is original too?

Question 2: I'm also looking to re route carb vent lines to top side of air box with line connectors ( to tidy things up ). I'm told this will make fuel richer. To correct this problem, is it not just a fix to move clip on the needle jet up after running lines to air box?
Actually a polaris blue 7041080 spring with 10m weights works well in the primary clutch with a 42/34 helix and slp black secondary spring, but slp hasn't made that spring available in years. An EPI yellow worked pretty good to but that spring is nla. Last you could run a hot seat white if you can find one. All in all imo the stock red spring works about as well ass the other two.
I don't advise messing with the air box, or vent lines as they work pretty good already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey thx for the reply, So i should just run the vent lines back up into handlebars after I replace them with new ones and forget tapping into the box?
 

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On my '93 XLT I've run 10 (51gr) and Venom Black sping on the primary w/ an SLP 42/34 and their heavy secondary spring in the 1st hole ( I weigh around 240). Backshift is wicked and really fun on the trail, but RPMs down by [email protected] WOT. Switched back to 10MW and kept the Black Venom; now hitting 81-8200.
I have two other XLT's (580's) that I run the light blue primary w/ 10MW and red spring w/polaris 40/34 helix and they run very well.
 

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Question 1: Hey folks, I'm sure this has been discussed here before somewhere, but, I have a 1994 Polaris XLT SKS and looking to make it snappier. Somewhere I had read about just changing the primary spring to RED from the stock gold spring ( I'm positive this spring has never been changed ) and adding 10 W Blue weights, and leaving the secondary clutch alone as stock. There are 10 W weights on it now but they are not blue just metal colour looking. Do I need to get new weights, or are the ones currently on it now re usable? Also, should I replace the factory spring with a new one in the secondary as that I believe is original too?

Question 2: I'm also looking to re route carb vent lines to top side of air box with line connectors ( to tidy things up ). I'm told this will make fuel richer. To correct this problem, is it not just a fix to move clip on the needle jet up after running lines to air box?
This will make carbs LEANER. It reduces atmospheric pressure in the float bowls. Be cautious as it affects midrange and top end dramatically. Make sure check valves on vents are oriented such that they prevent underhood air entering the vent hoses yet allow raw fuel to drain.

As an example, the 93 750 Storm was a big dog when introduced. Vents were into the handlebars. Check valves on drip legs in vent hoses. Way too rich at low WOT. The mains were 320. Needle jets were huge R-0. A temporary change was made by Polaris to remove check valves and let underhood air enter thus increasing float bowl pressure more and more as sled speed went up, drop mains to 260 and remove vents from handlebars and plug them. This really woke the sled up, but caused dangerously lean conditions in some circumstances. The final solution was to attach vents to the airboxes and increase mains to 370.

Most Polaris sleds had vents routed to the airbox after that, but jetting was made richer to compensate. This provides the most consistent jetting.

As for clutching, first use a new belt set at low end of deflection. 1"-1 1/4". Then, tighten belt side clearance to around .010" by re-shimming the clutch spider. Then align clutches to 5/8" offset and float secondary about .080-.120" outward from perfect alignment at rest. Lightly grease driveshaft to facilitate float. Check motor mounts for being broken, loose or worn. Finally, replace worn clutch springs, bushings, weights. Do not over tighten track. Check all wheel bearings.

These piston port engines are weak at low end and need all the help they can get.
 

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This will make carbs LEANER. It reduces atmospheric pressure in the float bowls. Be cautious as it affects midrange and top end dramatically.

As an example, the 93 750 Storm was a big dog when introduced. Vents were into the handlebars. Way too rich at low WOT. The mains were 320. Needle jets were huge R-0. A temporary change was made by Polaris to drop mains to 260 and remove vents from handlebars and drop them down behind the engine. This really woke the sled up, but caused dangerously lean conditions in some circumstances. The final solution was to attach vents to the airboxes and increase mains to 370.

Most Polaris sleds had vents routed to the airbox after that, but jetting was made richer to compensate.
If you decide to vent the carbs to the air box figure at least 4 main jet size's richer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey thx for advise! Ya going to run new lines to handlebars how they were originally. Are those fuel lines OK for oil to engine NOT carb? I kinda started another thread on this but I'll ask you as well.
 

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Not sure what you mean, but get rid of all those black fuel lines for some clear tygon ones. Those old black lines eventually disintegrate internally causing crap to get into the carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
YES!!!! Hahaha those are the exact ones I was talking about! Its clear fuel line I put on there now vs old blackish yellow coloured ones. The old ones were hard as a rock. Dumb question, how do i get them filled back up with oil? Just turn it over a few times with kill switch on?
 

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YES!!!! Hahaha those are the exact ones I was talking about! Its clear fuel line I put on there now vs old blackish yellow coloured ones. The old ones were hard as a rock. Dumb question, how do i get them filled back up with oil? Just turn it over a few times with kill switch on?
Do you mean the oil pump injection lines? In that case its a good idea to crack open the bleed screw on the oil pump, and see if any air bubbles come out...wait until you see a good stream of oil. I'd dump some 2 stroke oil in the fuel tank just to be safe. If the pump is working normal those cylinders should be receiving enough injection oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ya the pump works great. Tons of oil coming out the bleed screw and top of pump when I took plate off due to fixing a lever that was bent on it, but the lines are basically empty after replacing except for a tiny bit in the lines that seeped thru over night. I should dump some oil in tank when first starting to make sure it's lubed as I think it will harm it running a couple of sec till lines fill?
 

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Ya the pump works great. Tons of oil coming out the bleed screw and top of pump when I took plate off due to fixing a lever that was bent on it, but the lines are basically empty after replacing except for a tiny bit in the lines that seeped thru over night. I should dump some oil in tank when first starting to make sure it's lubed as I think it will harm it running a couple of sec till lines fill?
It can't hurt to, but imo its not really necessary.
 

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I would not recommend using the same thin wall line that is used for vent tube for oil lines. I did and the heat from the engine caused a bend to become a kink and shut off the oil to one cylinder and I lost that piston and took out connecting rod bearing, crank and crank case. Wasn't real happy since I had asked local dealer for oil line.
 

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I would not recommend using the same thin wall line that is used for vent tube for oil lines. I did and the heat from the engine caused a bend to become a kink and shut off the oil to one cylinder and I lost that piston and took out connecting rod bearing, crank and crank case. Wasn't real happy since I had asked local dealer for oil line.
You want to use nothing but the original oil injection line when it comes to that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oh crap!!! Thx for the heads up then, Ill have to order the new lines and change them out again. I decided to take secondary clutch apart for a good cleaning. Helix was basically siezed maybe thats why i have no power on take off. Had to gently bang it down with a hammer and it stayed down, when I removed the snap ring I had to tap it up with a hammer to get it out.. it was so full of dirt and dust I had to vacuum it out before cleaning it all. It has a red spring in secondary and I will put a blue spring up in primary according to Polaris parts guy. Should see a big difference
 

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Oh crap!!! Thx for the heads up then, Ill have to order the new lines and change them out again. I decided to take secondary clutch apart for a good cleaning. Helix was basically siezed maybe thats why i have no power on take off. Had to gently bang it down with a hammer and it stayed down, when I removed the snap ring I had to tap it up with a hammer to get it out.. it was so full of dirt and dust I had to vacuum it out before cleaning it all. It has a red spring in secondary and I will put a blue spring up in primary according to Polaris parts guy. Should see a big difference
Inspect those buttons for excessive wear or just replace them. Good idea to check the large UD bushing to if the secondary was hanging up. Smear a little grease on the jackshaft so the driven clutch floats smoothly once bolted down....and don't lose any of your alignment shims.
 

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Clutching and jetting are affected by elevation and temperature. If you have the original hood on your machine there should be a sticker that recommends what jetting to run for a particular temp and elevation. I always set mine up to pull between 8000-8200 rpm.
This link will take you to a site that has free downloadable Shop Manuals for the 4 major manufacturers: Box
 
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