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Discussion Starter #1
I don't want to sound stupid :huh: , but I am going to ask anyways. They say the only "stupid" question is the un-asked question.... :p

When adjusting the track tension, after loosening the large 1 ½ axle nut…. do the small nyloc nuts need to be held with an open-end wrench while turning the adjusting bolts? What about when you are all done adjusting and you tighten the rear axle nut to 30 ft. lb., do you need to snug up the nyloc nuts on the adjusting bolts? Very different than the previous sleds (ZR/ZL’s)
Thanks!
-John
 

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do not loosen the big nut, no need. Yes you have to hold the nuts that the adj. bolts are attached to. The axle will slide in and out without loosening.
 

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Originally posted by GF7PE@Dec 24 2002, 07:35 PM
dont touch the nylock nuts or the big axle nut
GF7PE, then how do you expect to adjust the track if you dont touch the sled???

John, you loosen the big nut, and then I use two wrenches to adjust the adjusting bolts. I found these to be very critical, and a half turn either way can make the difference between a good job and a sloppy one.

Hint- center the track in the tunnel with the adjuster bolts with the axle nut loose. Then confirm alignment by eyeballing rear wheel position. They should occur at the same adjustment point-mine did. Also rotate track and measure several times.. My track edge seems to vary and is not a reliable reference point. When you have it perfect tighten the large nut securely. The adjustment bolts are just that..adjustment bolts. You don't touch then after it is right or you mess it up!

Take the time to do this correctly... My F7 rolls SO easily that I can pull the sled along on the level with the front bumper. I've never seen such a free wheeling chassis.

If this isn't clear I'll do some pictures when I get back from Quebec next week.
 

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Originally posted by The Outdoor Shop@Dec 24 2002, 07:41 PM
do not loosen the big nut, no need. Yes you have to hold the nuts that the adj. bolts are attached to. The axle will slide in and out without loosening.
got to disagree. You can tighten the track without loosening the big nut, but it will "jump" rather than do it precisely. And you CAN'T loosen the track without loosening the big nut. And You DO want to align the track by loosening it, not tightening it. It is already way too tight.
 

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If you disagree with my thinking.. Try moving the adjusters one flat (1/6 of a turn) at a time. With the rear axle tight (big nut), you won't see any difference with such a small amount. With the axle loose and free to move, you will see tiny changes make a big diff.

This is one reason I get better gas mileage and my sliders last so long. Track alignment is CRITICAL!
 

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Oh no Rob :wacko: ......I must disagree with you :lol: ...don't kill me..I have yet to have to loosen the large nut. You can tap the wheels in with a hammer...does not hurt a thing...but I do agree that the smallest adj. is a big one. If the track was set up correctly, then it will only need a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to get it perfect and tight. But hey I guess we have our own ways..You never even had to loosen the zr bolts on the axles either. If that axle was rock solid tight on the rails it would probably have a bad affect on parts, no flex or give at all...
 

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Originally posted by The Outdoor Shop@Dec 24 2002, 08:06 PM
Oh no Rob :wacko: ......I must disagree with you :lol: ...don't kill me..I have yet to have to loosen the large nut. You can tap the wheels in with a hammer...does not hurt a thing...but I do agree that the smallest adj. is a big one. If the track was set up correctly, then it will only need a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to get it perfect and tight. But hey I guess we have our own ways..You never even had to loosen the zr bolts on the axles either. If that axle was rock solid tight on the rails it would probably have a bad affect on parts, no flex or give at all...
I don't understand the logic of using a hammer instead of taking a moment to loosen a nut? Tell me why it would be bad to loosen the big nut? Of course it isn't.

Using a hammer is a short cut, and it's a crude way to make an adjustment.
 

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Its not a "bad" thing to loosen the big nut... :) Just never had to ever!!!!

also only need to tap it forward, if for some reason the track need to be loosened????? why loosen?? only for slide replacement or removal...so almost never....not to mention I have riden before... hundreds of miles...I know you have, and neede to adj. the track. I'm not about to bring a huge socket and ratchet with me , when I don't "have to"....why crude...tap the axle forward??? not like its a 10lb. sledge....a tiny ball peen...will do...
 

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Originally posted by The Outdoor Shop@Dec 24 2002, 08:20 PM
Its not a "bad" thing to loosen the big nut... :) Just never had to ever!!!!

also only need to tap it forward, if for some reason the track need to be loosened????? why loosen?? only for slide replacement or removal...so almost never....not to mention I have riden before... hundreds of miles...I know you have, and neede to adj. the track. I'm not about to bring a huge socket and ratchet with me , when I don't "have to"....why crude...tap the axle forward??? not like its a 10lb. sledge....a tiny ball peen...will do...
Point is... there is no good reason not to loosen the rear axle bolt while adjusting the track, so why not do it? It's not like its a big deal!

And Cat tracks, just like Poo tracks and Doo and Yam tracks ALL come set with way too much tension. One of the first things I do is loosen the track and align. Run em loose as possible. And I haven't had to change a pair of hyfax in many years, even though I put 8 to 10 thousand miles on them. And they don't stick on roads or ice, get better mileage and have a better topend. Never had a problem by running them loose either. That answer the question of 'why loosen'? ;) ^_^
 

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well, then I guess all your dealers tighten them a lot....all ours come in with like 3-4 inches of hang in the middle...I run them with a descent slack also...So YES I get what your saying, but you get what I'm saying..you don't NEED to loosen the nut either......I see it 50/50 hindsight..I'm just saying you don't HAVE to loosen it. From what I've seen, and seen a lot...most people don't evenb want to touch a tool....

Rob, we can now see how and why this site is good. No asshole attitude and people actually knowing stuff...THANKS

AND :p
 

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I adjusted my track according to the owners manual. After 300 miles it was hanging about 1" in the middle with no tension on it. I loosened the axle nut with the wrench and tightened the track accordingly. It now hangs so that the top of the center guide? on the inside of the track is even with the bottom of the hyfax with no tension. I just changed my hyfax on my 2000 ZL with 4K miles on it and there was still quite a bit of meat left. They are cheap so I figured why not? Also the Fcat has no torsion sensing link-am I wrong in assuming that this will cause the track to ratchet if left too loose? I don't like that rear axle nut- I keep checking it now because if that sucker ever comes off on the trail you are screwed big time!!

Sorry about the run on paragraph but I think I got all of my points in. :)
 

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I agree Rob, I have always done the same. Dan I see what you are saying though - definately not incorrect just...... ummmm...... different way of doing things.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Originally posted by rob@Dec 24 2002, 06:52 PM
I use two wrenches to adjust the adjusting bolts.
Rob,

So when you are adjusting your track, you will use a ratchet/socket for the adjusting boly thru the rear track windows and a combination wrench to hold the small nyloc nut on the front-side of the adjuster bolt and when all done, simply tighten the large rear axle nut..... sound correct? Thanks!
-John
 

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Originally posted by The Outdoor Shop@Dec 24 2002, 08:20 PM
not like its a 10lb. sledge....a tiny ball peen...will do...
If you don't like using a hammer, kick wheels ahead with the heel of your foot, this works also.
Rob and I went around on this before on the old forums. I have never loosened the rear axle, mabe polaris makes thier axles tighter.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have 1 final question regarding this issue. What I am curious about is if the spacer hardware that the adjuster bolt goes thru is "threaded" or if it is simply a 'thru' hole that uses the nyloc nut for actual adjustment(resistance).....

On the old chassis(ZR), the adjusting bolt went thru a portion of the rail that was threaded, and the 'jam' nut on the adjuster bolt was simply there to prevent it from boolening and backing off the track tention. I cant really tell how the Firecat adjusters actually work..... Please explain if you know.... Dan, RoyT, Rob??? Thanks.
-John
 

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Originally posted by JLeosnow@Dec 25 2002, 02:14 PM
I have 1 final question regarding this issue. What I am curious about is if the spacer hardware that the adjuster bolt goes thru is "threaded" or if it is simply a 'thru' hole that uses the nyloc nut for actual adjustment(resistance).....

On the old chassis(ZR), the adjusting bolt went thru a portion of the rail that was threaded, and the 'jam' nut on the adjuster bolt was simply there to prevent it from boolening and backing off the track tention. I cant really tell how the Firecat adjusters actually work..... Please explain if you know.... Dan, RoyT, Rob??? Thanks.
-John
it's not threaded. it's a 'thru' hole.
 

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How much deflection seems to be right? I adjusted mine according to the book. One and a half inches with 20 lbs of weight. It sags about 1 inch with no weight on it.
 
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