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Also i have another question. All summer my sled has been leaking oil just a few drops at a time. Since last march i have lost about half a tank of oil. I cant seem to find where it is leaking from. Ive taken off the air box so that i can see the tank and all the hoses well, i have cleaned everything off (Tank, Oil pump and Oil Lines) to see if i can see anything getting wet but i have not. Any suggestions of where else i need to look?
Thank you all in advance
If its not anywhere around the tank, pump, or lines, its likely those check valves on the cylinders.
Getting back to your clutch buttons...their's a special tool used to clamp on those buttons when shimming the new ones so when you remove, and reinstalled them to spec, you don't bugger them up using regular pliers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I got them at the Polaris deadlier. So your saying that I should have to for e them in place? Also this is the first time I have heard anything about shimming them. There are no videos out there about installing the buttons I can only find one about removing them.
 

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I got them at the Polaris deadlier. So your saying that I should have to for e them in place? Also this is the first time I have heard anything about shimming them. There are no videos out there about installing the buttons I can only find one about removing them.
You might be over your head on this. Usually if you buy a polaris clutch rebuild kit, it comes with the new buttons, assortment of shims, the pins, and rollers. If they are original polaris buttons for that clutch, they should fit very tightly in the spider. I have to press them in, and then measure the gap once their placed in the tower. You want the shims on the drive/load side of the spider. Should be .000, or as close as possible without binding when you place the spider in the tower while sliding through its travel. There's a plier's type tool with jaw like clamps to remove/pull those buttons if they require you to add, or remove a shim. You can find them being sold by online dealers such as slp. Once i have all the buttons installed and shimed, you want install the cover on the clutch without the spring making sure nothing binds, and moves smoothly, yet there is no play between the buttons and the tower. Even the spider's pins, and rollers will need to be pressed out, and new ones pressed in. It can be done with a vice if a bit creative, and being careful.
When you assemble that clutch your going to need at least a 3'-4' 300 lb. rated torque wrench, and some blue loctite. You must of had some of the special tools already if you were able to disassemble this clutch.
 

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You might be over your head on this. Usually if you buy a polaris clutch rebuild kit, it comes with the new buttons, assortment of shims, the pins, and rollers. If they are original polaris buttons for that clutch, they should fit very tightly in the spider. I have to press them in, and then measure the gap once their placed in the tower. You want the shims on the drive/load side of the spider. Should be .000, or as close as possible without binding when you place the spider in the tower while sliding through its travel. There's a plier's type tool with jaw like clamps to remove/pull those buttons if they require you to add, or remove a shim. You can find them being sold by online dealers such as slp. Once i have all the buttons installed and shimed, you want install the cover on the clutch without the spring making sure nothing binds, and moves smoothly, yet there is no play between the buttons and the tower. Even the spider's pins, and rollers will need to be pressed out, and new ones pressed in. It can be done with a vice if a bit creative, and being careful.
When you assemble that clutch your going to need at least a 3'-4' 300 lb. rated torque wrench, and some blue loctite. You must of had some of the special tools already if you were able to disassemble this clutch.
I forgot to add you want .015''-.020'' belt sheave clearance with a new belt before you lock everything together. This might require to buy additional size shims to allow you to get that clearance.
 

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I’m sorry if I didn’t mention that I am speaking of the secondary clutch not the primary
The secondary is cake. You just remove the old worn buttons, and push in the new ones. Never had an original polaris button that was so loose it'd fall out. They fit tight, but you should be able to install them without any tools. I've had some aftermarket buttons in the past from kimpex that were junk....i think they were purple in color. Polaris ones are brown with a hard plastic texture.
 

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MY21 650 SBA 146, ES, ICE Storm 1.5
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Good day here I go again with questions. This time it’s about p85 secondary clutch buttons. I read that the aftermarket buttons (slippery buttons) are way better an last a lot longer. Is this true and if so do you know where I can find them and a part number that would match my 1994 Polaris XLT SKS 580. I got a new black spring and a 42/36 helix and now want to change the buttons as well
Some of the confusion was created by the above bold term. The P85 is a primary clutch.
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I’m going to try to remove the primary and bring it to a shop to install the new spring I bought and then inspect and replace anything that may need changing. Also the buttons I bought were the the Polaris deadlier and are either dark brown or black I can’t make it out with my old eyes. I’m going to go back into the secondary see if they sit in tight now that the helix and 2 halves have been put together. Thank you all so much for the info and advice. I have a lot to learn.
 

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I’m going to try to remove the primary and bring it to a shop to install the new spring I bought and then inspect and replace anything that may need changing. Also the buttons I bought were the the Polaris deadlier and are either dark brown or black I can’t make it out with my old eyes. I’m going to go back into the secondary see if they sit in tight now that the helix and 2 halves have been put together. Thank you all so much for the info and advice. I have a lot to learn.
Yes you do. I hope you have deep pockets, any dealer will not be cheap. When and if you try to remove the primary, be sure to use the correct puller. If just replacing the spring, you do not need to pull the clutch. If you do, make sure you observe the x's on the cover, and spider when assembling the cover back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
As you mentioned To Slow I was only planning on changing the spring myself. I purchased the proper tool but I have heard a lot of people say that even they have often broken them in the process of trying to remove the primary. More people are saying to use the water method which if I’m not mistaken means using the existing primary bolt
 

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As you mentioned To Slow I was only planning on changing the spring myself. I purchased the proper tool but I have heard a lot of people say that even they have often broken them in the process of trying to remove the primary. More people are saying to use the water method which if I’m not mistaken means using the existing primary bolt
I never had an issue if using the correct clutch puller to remove the primary on those mono block triples. You want to make sure to lube the pullers threads before using it. Some of the liberty twins can be a pita needing the water method. I have a special aftermarket bolt i use if thats the case. I don't use the primary clutch mounting bolt.
I would think if the primary clutch is worn out, so is the secondary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Good ay everyone: I have been trying to find some information on how to install the buttons on my secondary clutch. This is on and old 1994 Polaris XLT SKS 580. I purchased them from my Polaris dealer so I'm guessing that they are the right ones but when i slide them in they do not lock into place. If i turn the clutch half upside down they just fall out. Am i supposed to force them in and then they will lock in place at some time? Thank you for any help.
 

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Good ay everyone: I have been trying to find some information on how to install the buttons on my secondary clutch. This is on and old 1994 Polaris XLT SKS 580. I purchased them from my Polaris dealer so I'm guessing that they are the right ones but when i slide them in they do not lock into place. If i turn the clutch half upside down they just fall out. Am i supposed to force them in and then they will lock in place at some time? Thank you for any help.
You either have the wrong buttons, or your clutch sheave that holds them has too much clearance....which i have never seen, unless the original buttons were so worn down they ruined the sheave. I thought we went over this already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
We did but the old buttons I took out were still in pretty good shape and were very tight in there. I’ll just take the clutch apart and bring it to my Polaris deadlier to see what the issue might be. It could be that they sold me the wrong buttons.
 

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We did but the old buttons I took out were still in pretty good shape and were very tight in there. I’ll just take the clutch apart and bring it to my Polaris deadlier to see what the issue might be. It could be that they sold me the wrong buttons.
Well if the old ones were tight as they should have been, then its obvious you now have the wrong buttons. I always had to use a dry wall screw threaded into those button heads in order to pull them out....thats how tight they were seated.
 
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