Hardcore Sledder banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey everyone, first day on the forumn and only second year with a sled, just upgraded to 99xcsp600, looking it over today checked the chaincase oil and I'm left to find a ton of metal shavings and a bunch of old dirty thick oil and not even full, i want to flush it out. heres the questions, would it be alright to use mineral spirits(paint thinner) to do so? (i've used this remedy before on a dirtbike) and what kind of oil do a put back in? brand weight etc.? thanks much in advance. (crappy pic of sled but all my phone would do with the lighting i had)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
I just clean mine out with a rag...then refill it with ATF. I've been using ATF forever. It doesn't freeze or damage your Chaincase Oil Seal. The temps up here can reach -40 celcius not including windchill. Never had any problems using ATF, it's cheaper to buy and it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,363 Posts
The metal shavings are normal, you just dont want to see chunks of metal. I would dump the oil, pull the cover and check things out and refill it with a good synthetic chain case oil. I would also make sure you adjust the chain tension.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,217 Posts
normal to see the metal on the dipstick, The older oils had graphit and stuff in it for the chain, I have a few old bottles of the older mid 90's chaincase oil. I like it better than the syn oils of today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
normal to see the metal on the dipstick, The older oils had graphit and stuff in it for the chain, I have a few old bottles of the older mid 90's chaincase oil. I like it better than the syn oils of today.[/b]
I second the comment about pulling cover and checking things out.
You never know what you might find.
Drain old oil, TIGHTEN TENSIONER (I was able to get over 2 turns on my 99 700 xc)
I've used either Polaris regular chaincase oil, or the synthetic.
I'm sure other brands make similiar products (Amsoil....etc)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
hey thanks for the help, how big of a job is it to pull the cover? and will i need a gasket to put it back on? like i said I'm new to sleds, my old one i didn't do anything for maintenance, didn't ride it long enough, love my new one tho even with my shattered leg...any other opinions on using ATF? thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,674 Posts
hey thanks for the help, how big of a job is it to pull the cover? and will i need a gasket to put it back on? like i said I'm new to sleds, my old one i didn't do anything for maintenance, didn't ride it long enough, love my new one tho even with my shattered leg...any other opinions on using ATF? thanks again[/b]
You will will have to take the exhaust off first, this is easy to do as only springs are holding it in place, no bolts or nuts. I took a 8 inch piece of coat hangar, and bent a sharp but short (less than 1/4 inch) 180 degree bend in the very top of it so I could hook onto the springs and pull with the remainder of the coat hangar that I bent at a 90 degree for some grip, (youll figure it out) Then drain the case from underneath the sled, being careful to not strip the star fitting that the drain plug has, then remove the cover bolts, (6 I believe) and crack open the case. Be careful with the seal, I have been able to re-use mine many times without replacing, but you dont want to stretch them out by jerking on the cover before you see that the seal is not stuck onto the case. remove the tensioner, and take out the chain to inspect or replace, Clean, CHECK YOUR UPPER AND LOWER SPROCKET BOLTS for wear, and tightness, clean out any remaining crap and reassemble. Be sure to adjust tensioner before bolting it up, as your first time opening a case up, you will see how it works and be better familiar with it when its trailside and enclosed. Fill with fluid, and run like the wind!!! Good luck, its an easy job, a few hours at best. >>EDIT>>>dont forget to check the sprocket for any chipped or missing teeth, or excessive wear, if they are bad, replace them!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
5 bolts it easy to do. no need for a garsket its a seal. drain is on the bottom of chaincase. (little hole in belly pan)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
on the tensioner tighten it til its tight or torque it? if torque what do i torque it to, no manual came with the sled and i cant find one on ebay or craigslist or anything, if anyone has one for sale by dumb luck let me know!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hey bolt was stripped like no tomorrow, had to put it on its side and use a chissel to break it loose, got it off, no oil came out...took the cover off and everything looks realy good, loose chain but otherwise good, putting it back together tomorrow night and going from there, thanks, any word on using ATF??? will a local dealer carry the drain bolt or fleet farm or auto store by chance or do i have to order it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
320 Posts
hey bolt was stripped like no tomorrow, had to put it on its side and use a chissel to break it loose, got it off, no oil came out...took the cover off and everything looks realy good, loose chain but otherwise good, putting it back together tomorrow night and going from there, thanks, any word on using ATF??? will a local dealer carry the drain bolt or fleet farm or auto store by chance or do i have to order it?[/b]

I used mobil 1 synthetic ATF in mine, all my friends use it, no problems
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
alright sounds good, i think ill just go with that then, cheaper and easier to get ahold of, my local dealer is the biggest rip off in the world....mark up is through the roof on the entire inventory...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i started with 8oz and it wasn't enough, put in two more and it was over about an once, I'm no genius but if completely drained 9oz is the key on mine...also, going over doesn't hurt ANYTHING, the only point of that oil is to lube the chain and gears, overdoing it cant hurt a thing, underdoing it and your in a world of hurt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,804 Posts
I've been using atf in chaincases for years,never had a problem with it.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top