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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Noticed the lights flicker a couple times, then everything went to hell. No lights, hand/thumb warmers, and no tach. It has electric start, that works, and it runs fine.

I popped the hood, noticed a ground wire off. Fixed it, but no help. Is there a fuse on this thing somewhere?
 

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There aren't any fuses. You may have a shorted or disconnected yellow wire coming from the lighting coil inside the engine.
Check to make sure that the engine is grounded to chassis and all yellow (AC power) and brown (ground) wires are intact.

Yellow wire goes to all lights and tach including through dimmer button, rectifier, voltage regulator. If you have no lights, it may not recharge the battery either. While engine is running, check voltage at battery. It should rise when engine is revved up. If not, then problem could be in either the voltage regulator or the rectifier itself. Might be shorted out. Try disconnecting the regulator while idling ONLY. Don't rev it up or you will over load the system and blow bulbs, etc. If lights and tach now work, it's in one of these components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did a quick check last night, not charging at the battery. Voltage actually goes down when it's running. Tried unplugging the VR, no change. Can the ignition switch itself cause these problems?
 

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Sure sounds statorish to me.. Ohm out the stator,, yellow to yellow and red = .15 ohms, green to black and red = 15 ohms, green to ground = open, green to red = 15 ohms, white to white and red = 185 ohms, yellow and red OR brown = ground..
That checks your entire stator including trigger coil. Yellow, yellow and red and brown are the only ones involved in lighting.. There is an 8 amp circuit breaker between the rectifier and starter relay/solenoid. That breaker is the only fuse in the system that I am aware of too...
Hope this helps ya..
Ripperrrr
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sure sounds statorish to me.. Ohm out the stator,, yellow to yellow and red = .15 ohms, green to black and red = 15 ohms, green to ground = open, green to red = 15 ohms, white to white and red = 185 ohms, yellow and red OR brown = ground..
That checks your entire stator including trigger coil. Yellow, yellow and red and brown are the only ones involved in lighting.. There is an 8 amp circuit breaker between the rectifier and starter relay/solenoid. That breaker is the only fuse in the system that I am aware of too...
Hope this helps ya..
Ripperrrr[/b]
Yepper, you got it. I started "running the numbers" with your info above, it didn't look good. I took it to the dealer, they confirmed the stator is bad. Close to $400 from Polaris, or $165 "reconditioned". Bummer, that is the wife's ride, and we are heading out this weekend for a long weekend trip...now she has to use the backup sled.

Anybody know what years will work on this? From what I have been able to dig up it looks like it has to be from a 98 only.
 

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Yepper, you got it. I started "running the numbers" with your info above, it didn't look good. I took it to the dealer, they confirmed the stator is bad. Close to $400 from Polaris, or $165 "reconditioned". Bummer, that is the wife's ride, and we are heading out this weekend for a long weekend trip...now she has to use the backup sled.

Anybody know what years will work on this? From what I have been able to dig up it looks like it has to be from a 98 only.[/b]
PM me. I think I have one for you, Does the Sled have the has a 4th oil line? Not that it matters to the problem
I put a 4th line motor in a 96 and used the older electronics.
 
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