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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pockets any one, what is a good clutch set up for 95 XLT? A guy at work has one and he thinks it is 95 or 94 :frech32: , stock motor no pipes
 

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I just reclutched with what SLP recommended and it makes my stock 1995 XLT hang with my friends 800 REV's until about 60mph when they start pulling away slowly. Here's what the tech said would be good for my 180lb frame.

Hello,

I would suggest the 40-36 progressive helix for your combination. Use it with the 40-3 black spring and a set of the slippery buttons. The dial-a-spring feature adds the convenience of being able to adjust the spring tension in about the time it takes to remove a sparkplug. Way handy! Part numbers are:

1 each #40-40/36 helix or the 43-40/36 dial-a-spring version
1 each #40-3 black spring
3 each #40-9 super slippery button

Thanks, Jim[/b]
I can attest to the fact that the dial a spring is AWESOME if you like fine tuning. It allows you to adjust your shift out a few hundred rpm at a time without dissassembling the clutch. I can literally do it in less than 2 minutes now...so while we're on the trails if we feel like racing I just crank it up a notch..otherwise I let it down a notch and it gives it a little lower rpm for trail riding.
 

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Polaris #7041080 light blue primary spring, or erlandson white, black, or hot seat white. Stock weights, 10M5 if 34mm carb, 10MB if 38mm, or hot seat X light tip weights. Hot seat white secondary spring, #2, and a R8, erlandson 42/34, or hot seat HSP34, HSP34S helix. 3211070 belt, with primary sheave clearance set to .010" to .020", proper clutch alignment. Revent the carbs to the airbox with fittings under the shelf, and jet the mains up 3 sizes from what he runs now. If stock mains, go 1 or 2 sizes above stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks
 

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Kirt, the Poo 42/36/34 T2 helix you have also is good in that sled, considering you allready have one
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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