[The Hunter]

So here's the story, and it's stupid.
I changed the throttle cables, and adjusted the oil pump as low as it would go, (figuring that the lowest setting was where it needed to be for idle). So I get out there, and every time I idle, this thing starts squeaking, sounded a lot like a belt on the clutch so I didn't think much of it. Got back after about an hour cruise, pulled the engine over, and it squeaked as I pull the rip cord. Now I realize this is coming from the engine. Only thing I changed was the cable, so it mustn't be pulling it high enough, so I make it go as high as possible, now it gets lots and lots of oil. What I would like to know is how to correctly adjust the thing.
I read on the internet, an article that states: Adjust some dots so that they line up at WOT, and others say adjust so that they line up at idle.

 

[kenairmk]

I would love to help, I can look in my shop manual when I get home on Monday.

 

[excess11]

You might be needing these: Wiesco Pistons on Ebay

 

[The Hunter]

I think the engine is still ok, still can go 70MPH, just as fast as before, I must have caught it in time. Of course there will be some damage but I think it was a bearing making the noise.
Would having a flooded engine, 3/4 inch-1 inch of gas in crank case cause a dry bearing or two?

 

[excess11]

After the case was flooded with raw gas I would have run like 1/2 a tank of premix 50:1 threw it to get oil back into the bottom end bearings. This would be in addition to what the oil pump already provides!!!!! It might foul some pluggs but they are cheap compared to engine work!!

 

[excess11]

Look at your oil pump,just above the shaft that the cable connects to is a raised aluminum boss that sticks out the front of the pump almost flush with the arm that operates the pump. In the center of this boss should be a small line. Makch it up with the line on the pump arm at full throttle. Adjust the cable until you have them aligned and your done!!!!!!!!!

 

[can-amsledder]

Look at your oil pump,just above the shaft that the cable connects to is a raised aluminum boss that sticks out the front of the pump almost flush with the arm that operates the pump. In the center of this boss should be a small line. Makch it up with the line on the pump arm at full throttle. Adjust the cable until you have them aligned and your done!!!!!!!!![/b]

Are you sure?

I really think that the line on the pump arm lines up with the line on the pump housing at idle.

 

[XSKIER]

Are you sure?[/b]

there are two lines on the oil pump arm... They are supposed to line up with the mark on that post at both idle and wot. be sure to stick your head down in there, with the carbs off, and look at it as squarely as possible. and adjust until there both happy. After running the engine with no oil in it enough for the bearings to cry for help, I don't think I would ride it alone farther than I could walk without removing the crank to check the bearings. At the very least get a dial indicator on the crank to check the run out.

 

[The Hunter]

i've 50-60 miles since this "accident" and it still works
Sledding isn't much fun when you get wet from melting snow from the engine compartment.

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

Are you sure?

I really think that the line on the pump arm lines up with the line on the pump housing at idle.[/b]

the book says to line then up at idle, but every service post i've read from Polaris is line the marks up at full throttle. the marks will not line up at idle and WFO. personally i use the WFO setting, i've never had a problem. in fact it saved my '95 XCR600. every other guy i know had problems with theirs, especially after modding, but mine keeps purring away. don't worry to much about your 440 fan, they are bullet-proof motors. if it hasn't blown yet, it'll be fine.