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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hey guys, apollogize for the number of threads lately but ive been sitting here debating something with myself and wanted your opinions.


I got the 700 dragon shorty with slp pipe, jims map,gabes clutching, and waiting on the extention rails/tunnel to strch to 144 2 inch paddle series 4 track and ditching the stock shorty 121.

I do abit of off trail and mostly ride ungroomed woodroads, but i like a little 660' drag race here and there.Im currently geared 1.9 to 1 (21/40) and good for theoretical top speed of 93 mph @8250. my best gps mph last year with the shorty and trash ripsaw 1 and a 1/4 on 660 was 88 mph, mostly 86 mph and struggling to hook up out of the hole,spin city.

now, here in lies my question.since im running way more track this year,conventional wisdom would say an uptake in ratio to say , 2 to 1 to compensate for the extra track is somewhat a no brainer.maybe even 2.10 to 1.this would have me maxing out or dam close on 660.should be ideal , but is it?

Ive heard the best gearing is to gear as tall as you can without sacrificing acceleration.also, a little less gear could help with reduced spin off the line one would think,providing the clutching engagement is untouched, should result in less spin and thus, better hook up. in this sense, maybe leaving the gearing at my 1.9 set up could be beneficial over going to 2 to one or more.

the 7s not as stout as the 8s, they run 2 to 1 stock, so the 7 should need it .but then i look at my 05 edge 6 for example, down some maybe 20 hp and less tourque then the 7 i have, and could pull the same length track , albeit a 1 1/4, with a 1.8 to 1 ratio, very well up to the 91 mph mark on 1000 last year best run. so 20 hp advantage ,little more tq vs a .75 lug increase and quite abit more tolling mass,still,, the 7 should in my mind do fine spinning it at 1.9 to 1 and factoring in the slight longer ratio, do better off the line with less intial spin.

im probably way overthinking this and maybe little tangible difference real world , but what do you guys think? its essentially a foot more footprint and 1/3rd more lug, so i probably wont be able to spin even 88 mph even with the added traction, so should i just start at 2 to 1 , which would be 88 mph therthical speed . none of this has factored in overdrive even , which allows for what , maybe another 5 or 6 mph on top of these numbers?

just trying to settle on a good ratio because im going to have the sprockets off to change the track , so 2 birds stoned at once. you guys forgot more about this then i know, so opinions are welcomed and appriciated
 

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Imo, one must address any traction issue with studding first in order to have the clutching work optimum. Everything else will be just a band-aid. Don't go to a gun fight with a knife.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Imo, one must address any traction issue with studding first in order to have the clutching work optimum. Everything else will be just a band-aid. Don't go to a gun fight with a knife.

even playing fielld. no one here can run studs.its why everyone races long tracks on 660 and short tracks never win.ever. organized or not, zero studs.not allowed.dont ask me why, just how it is here.dont make sense to me either.

so that being said, what do you think about the question?
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Discussion Starter #7
On hardpac yes..on grass you'd normally want the sled to pull harder before total shiftout.

so given my set up and findings from last year, you think stay 1.9 ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep, i don't think any change thats a tooth difference from around what you have now will help your ET when it comes to no studs. Having proper suspension setup would likely benefit you more.
which was my next question.the 144s i had before were both uncoupled.this, being an extended 121 to 144, has the blocks.

should i set em to full transfer, or just ditch em altogether?
 

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which was my next question.the 144s i had before were both uncoupled.this, being an extended 121 to 144, has the blocks.

should i set em to full transfer, or just ditch em altogether?
That would be hard to say without testing in your conditions, same with clutching and gearing when running no studs. I can't ever remember drag racing sleds that were unstudded, and getting consistent results....well maybe back in the day when i ran a 50 hp. fan 440.
 

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Ditch the coupling blocks for max weight transfer. If it pulls the front to high you can add a new hole further back. Gonna have to experiment.
No blocks off trail will be way more fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ditch the coupling blocks for max weight transfer. If it pulls the front to high you can add a new hole further back. Gonna have to experiment.
No blocks off trail will be way more fun.
loved the last 2 144 uncoupled sleds ive had.was reading some guys prefer coupled for racing as it keeps the skis down.

love me some little to medium lumps to launch off of on the 2 edge 144s.they were great sleds for my type of riding. my favorite of all of em being the rmk 6 and my short lived switchback.

that being said, my rmk ran a cut down 2 to a 1.4 before i ever owned it and the switch was 1 1/4 144. never ran a lug close to this long, thus all the ged questions.

got off nightshift a few hours ago and went out and started picking.suspensions dropped and drive shafts ready to come out.called it a day there,gonna wait for an extra pair of hands to get the suspenion out from under the track and then pull the shaft and fit the series 4 on the drivers and reassemble.

then its waiting on the rail /tunnel extensions and a new hyfax.ordered it online over the weekend,no idea how long itll take wiith the covid shit and customs. either way , no reason i cant have it done now before this season
 

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Discussion Starter #13
snapped that bullshit little cotter pin on the top sprocket. hopefully the local dealer stocks em.flimsy garbage.
 

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snapped that bullshit little cotter pin on the top sprocket. hopefully the local dealer stocks em.flimsy garbage.
Go to a hardware store, or any of the big box home improvement stores for the cotter pin if you have them...just bring the old one and matchup the size/length. You can buy a 1/2 dozen of them for what poo would charge.
On another note when i raced my xc sp 600 ves with a 121 extra 10 coupled skid on ice, i sucked the front end down, plus softened the rear pulling it down a bit with the coupler blocks in the rear most hole. That sled would leave straight like a missile, and carry the ski's an inch or two for a few yards. Sled was very competitive against 700 class sleds to.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Go to a hardware store, or any of the big box home improvement stores for the cotter pin if you have them...just bring the old one and matchup the size/length. You can buy a 1/2 dozen of them for what poo would charge.
On another note when i raced my xc sp 600 ves with a 121 extra 10 coupled skid on ice, i sucked the front end down, plus softened the rear pulling it down a bit with the coupler blocks in the rear most hole. That sled would leave straight like a missile, and carry the ski's an inch or two for a few yards. Sled was very competitive against 700 class sleds to.

yeah i think ill experiment with the blocks in on the last hole just to see, then compare with em out.

even though my rmk and switch were uncoupled skids,they never were slow out the hole at all.little ski lift and shoot.

be a fun little comparo to see what gets out better. i can do it same day same track with gps.do a couple runs in , check speeds, couple out.dont take long to pull em out.

something tells me this will not be slow out the hole this year. every race last year i was last out.spin city. once i was out though, i was right there with the 12 rmk 8, but the race was lost at the start line every single time.


picked at it again today.got the suspension out on the bench , bearings are toast pretty well so gonna replace em all while its out.shocks seem to be holding ok. spring rebounds fine, so ill just do bearings and hyfax for this season i suppose. the rails i got are tracks usa with the tilted up ends, tunnel extension , and these rails you actually need to extend the hyfax so gotta get em anyway.

man , that 1 and a 1/4 ripsaw looks like a .75 1990 indy track next to that series 4.lol

wheather i can win the races or not, this thing with the 144 footprint and paddle should serve me well in my ungroomed journeys,which is , well, all of them lol.
 

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All i can tell you 144 skid will hookup way better on hardback than a 121 tracks being equal. Might be a good idea to remove one end of the shocks while out and manually cycle them while you listen, and feel for any odd sounds, or movement that doesn't appear fluid. Can't tell how often i've found a shock blown, but not leaking when having the skid down for maintaince. Sometimes you'll never tell unless you do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
All i can tell you 144 skid will hookup way better on hardback than a 121 tracks being equal. Might be a good idea to remove one end of the shocks while out and manually cycle them while you listen, and feel for any odd sounds, or movement that doesn't appear fluid. Can't tell how often i've found a shock blown, but not leaking when having the skid down for maintaince. Sometimes you'll never tell unless you do this.

good call.thanks too slow.

just checked my email,my tracks usa kit has shipped. sweet.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
tracks usa.super friendly nice people.
 
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Yes they are, and ship quick. I've bought a few tracks from them for a couple others, and myself. Never had a problem.
had an ordering issue on there website.called, they deleted the error online , took my order over the phone , one hour later email notification explaining it all and a tracking number for my package.the woman on the phone was a sweetheart. nice to see theres still good honest people still out there.thats how customer service should be.
 
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