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Just wondering, how often do you check your belt deflection? Do you do it yourself or do you take it to the dealer for inspection and possible adjustment each and every time?
Your belt usually stretches in the first 20 or so miles. You can then adjust to proper belt deflection. If clutches are properly aligned it should be good for 1000's of miles. However I check mine frequently as I am a bit of a tinkerer. There are simple instructions in your operators manual on how to perform the task. If you are not comfortable with doing it yourself your dealer can do it in less than 5 minutes.
 

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Just wondering, how often do you check your belt deflection? Do you do it yourself or do you take it to the dealer for inspection and possible adjustment each and every time?
I always check oil level at the end of the day, and usually top off oil then also. At the same time, I check the warmed up drive belt for proper deflection.

I carry the 1/8" allen wrench and a 7/16" hex wrench in my tool kit for belt deflection adjustment.

Check out the Polaris maintenance video for belt deflection, it is linked from the Matryx FAQ.
 
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I know they want you to check with a straight edge and get 1 1/4". But is there any quick reference? Like when I was on doo they told you to make sure the bottom of the outer belt cog was flush with the top of the secondary clutch sheave.
 

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My apologies in advance. My question was a bated question in reference to the pdi tech saying it’s adjusted by the factory upon assembly. Whether I trust the tech or factory is mute as it is something that due to wear, break-in or both, I would take it on to do myself. It’s like checking your own tire pressures in your car, it something you can and should do yourself frequently. I am not a sled mechanic, but a quick instruction on how to do it on YouTube while having a cup of coffee, I feel quite comfortable doing myself on a regular basis.
 

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I know they want you to check with a straight edge and get 1 1/4". But is there any quick reference? Like when I was on doo they told you to make sure the bottom of the outer belt cog was flush with the top of the secondary clutch sheave.
Good Point.

The problem with that is it's only a check for drive belt width.

  • It won't detect a short or long drive belt.
  • It won't deal with a variation in center to center distance. The Polaris chassis doesn't have much variation, it is pretty much all diecast aluminum pieces.
  • BUT, engine mounts and bolts have been known to fail, and also Secondary side jackshaft bearings.
  • The BRP type measurement is also not that precise.
 

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I know they want you to check with a straight edge and get 1 1/4". But is there any quick reference? Like when I was on doo they told you to make sure the bottom of the outer belt cog was flush with the top of the secondary clutch sheave.
All you need is a tape measure. Extend it midway between the clutches, holding the tape measure, until it touches the belly pan when you are holding the tape 90 degrees to the belt. Lock the tape measure. Now look at where the top of the belt is sitting in relation to the tape measure. Note the measurement. Now push down on the belt hard with your fingers. Hard! Note the measurement. Subtract the difference. If it's not 1.25", adjust as needed.

I check mine every time I put oil in. It has always been and continues to be a key adjustment for best performance, belt life. This along with proper throttle freeplay are the two easiest settings which can make a night and day difference in the performance and running quality of a sled. I bet 90% of the sleds I look at on the trail, one or both are wrong!!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So i got my vr1 home and rode it after work today. Holy shit. This thing is insane. Even in break in mode. Pulls like a freight train. Been riding sleds for 4 decades and this is the strongest sled out of the crate I have ever ridden and yes even compared to the 2 850 sleds i had.
 

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So i got my vr1 home and rode it after work today. Holy shit. This thing is insane. Even in break in mode. Pulls like a freight train. Been riding sleds for 4 decades and this is the strongest sled out of the crate I have ever ridden and yes even compared to the 2 850 sleds i had.

You deserve it after your long wait and almost backing out.. Still feel polaris "ruined" your favorite pastime ?
 

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So i got my vr1 home and rode it after work today. Holy shit. This thing is insane. Even in break in mode. Pulls like a freight train. Been riding sleds for 4 decades and this is the strongest sled out of the crate I have ever ridden and yes even compared to the 2 850 sleds i had.
Same thing I’m experiencing with mine. It’s been an animal since mile one and I’ve also owned two Polaris 850s. It was next to my brothers 800cat from 40-95 mph when we let off with 30 miles on the sled. It’s a ringer!
 

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So i got my vr1 home and rode it after work today. Holy shit. This thing is insane. Even in break in mode. Pulls like a freight train. Been riding sleds for 4 decades and this is the strongest sled out of the crate I have ever ridden and yes even compared to the 2 850 sleds i had.
My new one is much faster than my 19 Indy xc 850, not sure why but it pulls harder and ran 10 mph (Speedo) faster than it over the same distance.
 

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my 650 is a absolute animal. right out of the box. holds off our extremely fast 800 and others 850's to 80 mph. pulls past 100 mph effortlessly. it smoked a 800 stock pro-s badly to 1000' i love this 650 and i haven't touched it yet. belt deflection and belt wear will severely affect performance on these. one i worked on under performing had bad deflection. just like i been saying. this effects more then just take off. te sled was a turd everywhere until this was corrected. just like a light switch it came to life. races have been won or lost because of this. it makes a bigger difference on these 650's? belt deflection on the 550 fans are the same way. we have a 550 fan that you would swear it was a 600 if the deflection is tighter then the manual says. just barely off from squealing. and it's a rocket for what it is.
 

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Your belt usually stretches in the first 20 or so miles. You can then adjust to proper belt deflection. If clutches are properly aligned it should be good for 1000's of miles. However I check mine frequently as I am a bit of a tinkerer. There are simple instructions in your operators manual on how to perform the task. If you are not comfortable with doing it yourself your dealer can do it in less than 5 minutes.
The belt doesn't stretch. That's because it uses a strong cord designed to keep the same length. It does wear in to match the primary and secondary sheave angles. And, it may surprise some to realize that they are different angles. The belt face angles in the 1177 belt for the 800 up till 2020 are 26 degrees but the primary sheave face are 27 degrees for the 800. In the 2020 800 and the 2019-present 850, the sheave and belt face angles are both 28 degrees. The secondary sheave angles are 31 degrees in the 800. Probably the same in the 850. Many aftermarket replacement belts have varying face angles. Things aren't always what some may think. This is the main reason to adjust belt deflection after break in. After that, it's mainly just normal wear of the belt side faces.
 

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You guys with the new 650s wouldn’t be pulling our legs compared to a properly adjusted, like belt deflection and such, guys with 850s??? Now would you? Maybe Polaris should charge more for these “miracle machines” compared to the 850s.
IMO, It won't be a good comparison until each sled's clutching is optimized and sled is fully broken in. Can't wait for that.
 

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The belt doesn't stretch. That's because it uses a strong cord designed to keep the same length. It does wear in to match the primary and secondary sheave angles. And, it may surprise some to realize that they are different angles. The belt face angles in the 1177 belt for the 800 up till 2020 are 26 degrees but the primary sheave face are 27 degrees for the 800. In the 2020 800 and the 2019-present 850, the sheave and belt face angles are both 38 degrees. The secondary sheave angles are 31 degrees in the 800. Probably the same in the 850. Many aftermarket replacement belts have varying face angles. Things aren't always what some may think. This is the main reason to adjust belt deflection after break in. After that, it's mainly just normal wear of the belt side faces.
Stretch was the wrong term. Your explanation is correct.
 

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I ran across a youtube video on clutch rebuilding that recommended adjusting the driven clutch with the track off the ground and setting the clutch so the track just barely starts to turn when the engine is idling. The engine must be off when making the adjustment.
This solves the question of how much downward pressure to apply to the belt when making the measurement.
Has anyone else tried this?
 

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All the Polaris maintenance videos are linked from the Matryx FAQ sticky post.
FAQ topics and Reference Links Post #1

Also linked from the FAQ, is the Polaris Accessories post, which starts out with this drive belt table:

These are Oct. 2020 drive belt specs from Polaris Service

Feature650 Patriot
&
600 AXYS
850 Patriot
&
MY20up
800 AXYS
MY15-19
800 AXYS
- - Notes - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Drive Belt #32111653211215 *3211177 *
Belt Width1.46"1.47" *1.46" *0.01" difference
Side Angle26 deg.28 deg. *26 deg. *2 degree difference
Circumference45.16"45.16"45.16"
Ctr Distance10.625"10.625"10.625"
Compound &
Construction
PBOHi Modulus
Chloroprene
PBOCompound difference
 
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