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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. My sled finally came in saturday. Dlr did not have set up so they let me use the demo with about 200 miles on it. Dont know what it is but that particular 650 is a real dog.
And just to prove it the salesman from the dealer happened to be out in the wilderness where I was so I told him to ride it. He comes back and says his mxz500 would run circles around it. He tried to tell me that is just the way it is because of breakin but i call bullshit. The new 850 sleds I have had in breakin mode were not night and day difference when broke in so why should the 650 be. So if this 650 is that sucked out I dont want it. I would rather go with out a sled this year. You try and tell the dealer staff anything and they just dont listen. Can someone tell me if there is that much of a difference in performance when these are broke in?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
By the way I tried both fuel modes and it was even more gutless in the non ethanol mode.
 

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Just another note. I went 60 miles and used 8 gallons of fuel. had to have the flipper to the bars most of the time. So much for better fuel economy.
 

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You haven't said what kind of rpm it is running at full throttle?
What kind of fuel you're running in it?
We don't know how it was treated before you got it. May have been run full throttle in deep snow, for 2 minutes with 8 miles on the odometer.

Do you think there could be something wrong with this particular sled, and the dealer is not competent?

OR is everybody that has reported lying? ? ?

And to answer your question, in my experience the sleds that have something wrong with them during break-in, still have something wrong with them after break-in.
 

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I heard the fuel gauges are generous, but I put 80 miles on mine and my gauge shows 80%, I'll fuel it up and check my milage. It's not as torquey as my 16 800 Pro-S which is what I wanted, I liked the smoother power delivery of the 600 I traded in, this is my wife sled and she didn't like riding the 800 as much. I had a check engine issue, but other than that, I like everything about the sled.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Running regular 87 octane. The sled will get to 8000 rpm . On a lake with about 6 inches of hard pack you stab the throttle and it hits 7600 and then slowly climbs to 8000. The sled is in non premium mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Check the belt deflection. Can make it feel like a pooch and burn more fuel.
Sorry. Never looked under the hood but I should have. I will talk it over with the dealer. This is a demo unit so if the dealer sends there customers out on test rides on it there is no way it is going to sell more sleds for them. They were nice enough to let me take it for a weekend so I should not be negative toward them and did not mean to seem that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just went out and pulled the side panel off and the belt is loose. The top of the cogs is about level with the sheaves and just by pushing down on it I can tell it is not set properly. Did not have a allen wrench with me today or a comb wrench but I did think about doing it. Did not think it would make that much of a diff. I guess i will never know. Back to dealer in the morning and i pick up mine.
 

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Does it feel like an 800? No. Its a 650. Is it an overachiever? You bet it is. I am coming off an 18 XCR 800. This 650 in the Matryx chassis is flat out awesome. I opted for the heavier spring on the snow check. I am about 250 with gear. I feel like this sled rides better then my XCR did, and it puts it to shame in the corners. The engine....well I only have 120 miles on but at the beginning was relatively underwhelming felt very 600 like only hitting about 7800 rpm. By the end of the day I was seeing 8100 and this thing will hang the ski's on demand. It was a 30 degree day and was easily seeing 90 mph on the speedo. On my XCR @ 90 miles I was looking for fuel. This thing on first break in tank the low fuel light just started to flash @ 115 miles and I was riding it like I stole it the whole day. This new 129 Launch 650 is a phenomenal overall package. Its got it all. I am very happy with it.
 

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Just went out and pulled the side panel off and the belt is loose. The top of the cogs is about level with the sheaves and just by pushing down on it I can tell it is not set properly. Did not have a allen wrench with me today or a comb wrench but I did think about doing it. Did not think it would make that much of a diff. I guess i will never know. Back to dealer in the morning and i pick up mine.
When I first took out my VR1 650 137 it felt ok then at about 20 miles it felt like a lazy 600. Brought sled into the shop checked and adjusted belt deflection and took it back out. Felt very strong after adjustment. I now have 400 miles on and the sled and through the trails feels as strong as my 2016 800 Rush. Much more fun in the trails than my 2020 850 xcr 129. Anyone who has a new sled MUST check adjust belt deflection to achieve optimum performance. All around I feel the sled is probably the funnest and most complient sled I have ever ridden. Shocks valving is pretty darn nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When I first took out my VR1 650 137 it felt ok then at about 20 miles it felt like a lazy 600. Brought sled into the shop checked and adjusted belt deflection and took it back out. Felt very strong after adjustment. I now have 400 miles on and the sled and through the trails feels as strong as my 2016 800 Rush. Much more fun in the trails than my 2020 850 xcr 129. Anyone who has a new sled MUST check adjust belt deflection to achieve optimum performance. All around I feel the sled is probably the funnest and most complient sled I have ever ridden. Shocks valving is pretty darn nice.
Good to know. Thanks. Went in to the dealer back shop where they are doing the pdi on my vr1 so me and the sales guy ask the tech if they set the deflection and the young fellow says no you dont have to they are preset from the factory. Holy fawk. Sure dont give me a warm fuzzy out look.
 

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Quick FYI
The Belt Deflection goal is 1 1/4" of belt deflection from flat, between the two clutches, after sled has come to an easy stop, or rolled to a stop with the back of sled suspended off the ground.

1/8" Allen wrench to adjust/hold the deflection set screw.
a 7/16" hex wrench will loosen jam nut. Can't use a socket very well, because you need to hold the set screw with the Allen wrench while loosening/tightening the jam nut. Take it easy when tightening the jam nut to 12 ft. lb.

Remember turning in the set screw (opening the clutch) gives more deflection/looser belt.
Turning the set screw out (closing the clutch) give less deflection/tighter belt.

Sometimes it is easiest to use the belt removal tool to take the pressure off the set screw (or jamming the belt down into the secondary will do the same thing) and then after backing off the jam nut, and holding it with the wrench, turn the set screw with the allen, til you have the belt tension you want... Your call.
 
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Good to know. Thanks. Went in to the dealer back shop where they are doing the pdi on my vr1 so me and the sales guy ask the tech if they set the deflection and the young fellow says no you dont have to they are preset from the factory. Holy fawk. Sure dont give me a warm fuzzy out look.
The young fellow needs to get some schooling from someone that knows what to do. Even if it was correct during the PDI it will still need to be adjusted after the first 20+ mile ride, then should be good for the season.
 

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Quick FYI
The Belt Deflection goal is 1 1/4" of belt deflection from flat, between the two clutches, after sled has come to an easy stop, or rolled to a stop with the back of sled suspended off the ground.

1/8" Allen wrench to adjust/hold the deflection set screw.
a 7/16" hex wrench will loosen jam nut. Can't use a socket very well, because you need to hold the set screw with the Allen wrench while loosening/tightening the jam nut. Take it easy when tightening the jam nut to 12 ft. lb.

Remember turning in the set screw (opening the clutch) gives more deflection/looser belt.
Turning the set screw out (closing the clutch) give less deflection/tighter belt.

Sometimes it is easiest to use the belt removal tool to take the pressure off the set screw (or jamming the belt down into the secondary will do the same thing) and then after backing off the jam nut, and holding it with the wrench, turn the set screw with the allen, til you have the belt tension you want... Your call.
The consumer really needs to read there operators manual. These snowmobiles are nothing like the old days.
 

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The consumer really needs to read there operators manual. These snowmobiles are nothing like the old days.
Belt Deflection adjustment has been around since the old days.

The downloadable snowmobile operators manual for the Matryx has been available since mid-July. People taking delivery now, have had plenty of time to read it.
 
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Just wondering, how often do you check your belt deflection? Do you do it yourself or do you take it to the dealer for inspection and possible adjustment each and every time?
 

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Belt Deflection adjustment has been around since the old days.

The downloadable snowmobile operators manual for the Matryx has been available since mid-July. People taking delivery now, have had plenty of time to read it.
Unfortunately I bet 90% do not read it. And yes proper belt deflection has been a important since the evolution of the CVT system.
 
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