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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all.
I need help with my water pump machanical seal on my 2013 polaris switchback adventure.
It has 7600 km, Never gave any problem until my last ride. Blew the machanical water pump seal on a perfect trail.
Removed the water pump cover and found the impeller destroyed, nut came off, housing gouged and the seal broken into pieces.
Removed the seal from the shaft. Wow that was the hardest with the engine still in sled. Installed the new mechanical seal with the proper tool.
Then the impeller , gasket and housing.
Has the cooling system pressure checked. All good.
Filled coolant system and fired back up.
Ran mint. Did a bunch of test runs and full throttle launches. All good until i noticed coolant in the snow. WTF again.
So i repeated the same thing again.
Replaced everything new again.
Ran good for about 5km and then blew again.
Now im pulling the engine and investigating more.
I have spoken to dealers and they are not much help. I have read all the thread online and it did help a little. Just hope its not my cross shaft gear.
My oil pump shaft has about 0.030" end play and thats the max.
Any help please.
Thx steve
 

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You are sure the coolant is coming out of the weep hole for the pump?
To be honest,Ive never taken the chance on doing it in the sled.I just pull the engine out so I can make sure both seals are seated properly.
 

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2019 Pros switchback
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my 13 600 blew water pump at about 8000 miles.they had to replace crank due to damage to pump drive.may want to check drive gear closer?
actually they replaced complete bottom end but was under warranty.
sounds like these have a problem with water pumps?
 

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I don't think its possible to properly install the water pump seal in the sled. You gotta pull the engine. The seals are pretty delicate. The carbide faces of the seal can crack easily and leak. A static seal test will show no leaks. Once the seal is rotating it will start leaking if damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pulled engine. Will post pics of water pump seal and any other defect I find.
It funny how I can drive it full out for about 5 km before it starts leaks again.
I hope it's something simple. How do I inspect the worm gear?

Steve
 

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You have to remove the oil pump. The water pump shaft comes out the oil pump side. What seal installation tool do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The tool I'm using is the same Polaris sells with a step in.
Does anyone know what holds the WP and oil pump shaft in place? The manual says it can be removed from the WP side, but not sure.
Thx
Steve
 

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There is a brass bushing behind the lip seal, which is behind the water pump seal. The bushing has a small screw that holds it in from the bottom of the crankcase. My service manual says the part is not serviceable. I have removed these before. You still have to remove the oil pump and press out the bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thx for all the good info.
One dealer suggested me to look at these 2 bushing for wear.
They think that under load the shaft play is too much and separates the Mc seal.

Thx steve
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got engine out, water pump and oil pump removed.
Found lots of slivers from the worm gear
When removed WP shaft from engine.
Non of the bronze bushings that hold the WP shaft in place are worn.
Just the bronze gear and the teeth on the WP shaft.
No I guess I have to pull the bottom of the see how much more damage there is. Scoped the bores and they look really good. Still have 120 psi in both.

Pics below.
Thx steve
IMG_20180108_214829.jpg

IMG_20180108_220726.jpg

IMG_20180108_220735.jpg

IMG_20180108_222713.jpg

IMG_20180108_222807.jpg

IMG_20180108_223113.jpg

IMG_20180108_224315.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Is this normal for the 600 engines to do this. Spending this much money was hopping to last a bit longer.
I'll contact dealer and see what they say.
Steve
 

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Mine at 2500 miles. Brass gear on crank was shot but everything elses was ok. It was cheaper to get a reman crank vs swapping gear. Im getting tired of these engines. If its not one thing its another
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It's cheaper to get a short block from Polaris than rebuilding the old one.
$2400 tax Inc for a short block and the take my old block for core.
I guess I'll be going this route.
Steve
 

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Get a crank and gasket kit and do it yourself. 2400 is nuts!
 

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I just went down this same road with a 2012 600 @ 7200 miles. Nut fell off, impeller spinning on the shaft, and a few metal chunks. I thought the metal chunks were the washer, but I picked up the new washer yesterday and it is tiny. So that got me looking.

So turns out the metal chunks are part of the mechanical seal, so ordered that today.

The root cause I am guessing is the brass gear on the crank... mine was razor sharp. The sharp teeth must catch only once in a while and spin the oil/water shaft??? New gear is a different colour of bronze than the old... told that it is harder. Did Poo cheap out here again?

New brass gear and 4 bearings on the crank done last month for $500 Cdn. ~ $100 for the water pump parts ....beats the $2400 option.. mind u I did most of the work, so lots of personal time and run around.
 

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Yeah i hear ya! Do you have the seal tool for pressing it into the case? this is a must have. I made mine as I am a machinist by trade. The pump shaft and seal must be setup correctly.
 

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$2400 short block? better check again. a 800 c.f.i. is $4,895.00 for a short block. if you pay retail. the most off you will get is 20%. unless a dealer sells you one at cost? still going to be more then $2400.

i just did a crank repair, replate cylinders, and two new piston's, always do a mech. seal, t-stat, and have injectors cleaned. just the motor, the bill was $2,350.00 the dealer told the guy that price on a short block $4,895.00 plus $300 to switch everything over? CV-tech was $2200 with shipping and you still have to switch water pump, stator/flywheel, reeds/ throttle body's, head and cover, etc. so we were cheaper. and give a full year warranty. no mileage limit. the dealer it was out door warranty. once you leave the shop it's your monkey? that's nice.
 

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I just went down this same road with a 2012 600 @ 7200 miles. Nut fell off, impeller spinning on the shaft, and a few metal chunks. I thought the metal chunks were the washer, but I picked up the new washer yesterday and it is tiny. So that got me looking.

So turns out the metal chunks are part of the mechanical seal, so ordered that today.

The root cause I am guessing is the brass gear on the crank... mine was razor sharp. The sharp teeth must catch only once in a while and spin the oil/water shaft??? New gear is a different colour of bronze than the old... told that it is harder. Did Poo cheap out here again?

New brass gear and 4 bearings on the crank done last month for $500 Cdn. ~ $100 for the water pump parts ....beats the $2400 option.. mind u I did most of the work, so lots of personal time and run around.


At 7200 miles you will probably just need a new crank. Guarantee you have bearings that are getting rough. Rods are probably on there way out. If the pto bearing hasn’t spun on the crank already it’s more than likely started to loose its contact patch. At 4 to 5 thousand miles and your doing a top end on a 800 just go all the way down and have a reputable crank shop check it out. At 7600 on a 600 I would defiantly go all the way if your into the engine. Put a cat engine next to a Polaris engine and you will see why they don’t last. This is why the 850 is leaps and bounds better than the liberty engines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I just went down this same road with a 2012 600 @ 7200 miles. Nut fell off, impeller spinning on the shaft, and a few metal chunks. I thought the metal chunks were the washer, but I picked up the new washer yesterday and it is tiny. So that got me looking.

So turns out the metal chunks are part of the mechanical seal, so ordered that today.

The root cause I am guessing is the brass gear on the crank... mine was razor sharp. The sharp teeth must catch only once in a while and spin the oil/water shaft??? New gear is a different colour of bronze than the old... told that it is harder. Did Poo cheap out here again?

New brass gear and 4 bearings on the crank done last month for $500 Cdn. ~ $100 for the water pump parts ....beats the $2400 option.. mind u I did most of the work, so lots of personal time and run around.


At 7200 miles you will probably just need a new crank. Guarantee you have bearings that are getting rough. Rods are probably on there way out. If the pto bearing hasn’t spun on the crank already it’s more than likely started to loose its contact patch. At 4 to 5 thousand miles and your doing a top end on a 800 just go all the way down and have a reputable crank shop check it out. At 7600 on a 600 I would defiantly go all the way if your into the engine. Put a cat engine next to a Polaris engine and you will see why they don’t last. This is why the 850 is leaps and bounds better than the liberty engines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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