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today we drove the venture and noticed a lot of smoke from the exhuast, checked the throttle cable adjustment and found over oiling, adjusted throttle cable so carbs and oiler come on at the same time, runs sweet, best it has ever run, reconnected solinoids we had previously disconnected and still loose power, top rpms drop from 8,000 to 6500
so we haven't figured it all out, but with carb solenoids disconected and throttle cable adjusted so oiler and carbs come on at the same time machine runs great, smooth power from clutch enguagement all the way through to max rpms, I will do further research to see how the solenoids are controlled to find the real problem, but we are making progress,[/b]

I had the identical problem and I followed your lead with the oiler and the solenoids with the same results. Sled is now running sweet as a nut. Thanks.
 
Just a couple of questions on the changes you guys did to get the mid range smoother...

1. I believe there are two solenoids on the carbs. Are you disconnecting the top solenoid?

2. As I glanced through the owners manual a few nights ago, I believe the process for adjusting the oil pump was lining up two marks on the throttle assembly (down by the carbs) when the throttle was wide open. Is this the same process both of you used for adjusting the oil pump?

Thanks!
 
Just a couple of questions on the changes you guys did to get the mid range smoother...

1. I believe there are two solenoids on the carbs. Are you disconnecting the top solenoid?

2. As I glanced through the owners manual a few nights ago, I believe the process for adjusting the oil pump was lining up two marks on the throttle assembly (down by the carbs) when the throttle was wide open. Is this the same process both of you used for adjusting the oil pump?

Thanks![/b]

Adjust your throttle cable first to spec (1mm free play). Then at WOT adjust the oiler cable to line up the hash marks, basically as you described. I disconnected just 1 of the upper solenoids and it smoothed out my low rpm pick up. I disconnected both but the diagnostic light flashed and it ran rough. I then tried them individually and found the one that was causing the problem. I also cleaned the jets and and adjusted the pilot jet to stock. (1 3/4 turns out). Pain in the butt getting the carbs off but I feel better knowing its clean and setup to stock. Before this work I checked my plugs and they were definitely oily. They are now a nice light brown colour and dry. My friend, an experienced rider, took it out for a blast today and feels it couldn,t run much sweeter. As you can imagine I am well pleased with results of a fairly simple fix. Kudos to Scrossmans
 
Adjust your throttle cable first to spec (1mm free play). Then at WOT adjust the oiler cable to line up the hash marks, basically as you described. I disconnected just 1 of the upper solenoids and it smoothed out my low rpm pick up. I disconnected both but the diagnostic light flashed and it ran rough. I then tried them individually and found the one that was causing the problem. I also cleaned the jets and and adjusted the pilot jet to stock. (1 3/4 turns out). Pain in the butt getting the carbs off but I feel better knowing its clean and setup to stock. Before this work I checked my plugs and they were definitely oily. They are now a nice light brown colour and dry. My friend, an experienced rider, took it out for a blast today and feels it couldn,t run much sweeter. As you can imagine I am well pleased with results of a fairly simple fix. Kudos to Scrossmans[/b]

Glad to hear its running so well. After doing the carb work etc, is your current mode of operation with the two top solenoids disconnected?
 
Glad to hear its running so well. After doing the carb work etc, is your current mode of operation with the two top solenoids disconnected?[/b]
Trails are temp closed right now. I ran with both sols. plugged in because I wasn't confident about any harm that would cause. I believe they cut fuel to the carb as soon as the engine is shut off so I dont think I can do any harm. Plugged in the sled ran fine right up to 8000 rpm. Unplugged the sled seemed to pick up off idle quicker but wasn't much of a difference. Once the trails reopen I will experiment.
 
Trails are temp closed right now. I ran with both sols. plugged in because I wasn't confident about any harm that would cause. I believe they cut fuel to the carb as soon as the engine is shut off so I dont think I can do any harm. Plugged in the sled ran fine right up to 8000 rpm. Unplugged the sled seemed to pick up off idle quicker but wasn't much of a difference. Once the trails reopen I will experiment.[/b]
After a lot of time trying different things, I bought the factory service manual. pulled the carbs for the forteenth time. after testing sensors, one by one as per factory manual states. found the test for the throttle position sensor, found flat spot in the sensor changed the sensor and no difference in performance. bought a used harness and control units from ebay changed the cdi box and control unit , no change. swapped out a set of carbs from my 500 vmax and sled ran quite well.(other than still had a slight burble from idle to about 5000 rpms or so)bought a set of carbs off ebay, did a quicky clean slapped em on and ? better sometimes. ditched that problem, played around cause I thought my battery was dying. swapped the battery out and while I was turning over the engine I bumped the ground cable on the engine side and the sled quit running. wiggled the ground cable and the ground cable engine side snapped off. replaced the ground cable . reinstalled the original carbs all electronics plugged in set all back to factory and runs pretty good.(better than it ever has). starts and runs ok, 5500 rpms and up smooth as silk. off idle until 5300 still has a burble. with mustard put to the thottle the sled runs perfect, but still with easy throttle getiing a spot where she is not so smooth. all electronics test as per factory manual, although the test for the barometric pressure sensor is very poor at best. so I dont know if that could be a little out of whack or not. everything else testing perfect even pulled the solinoids out of the carbs hooked them up to a battery and wiggle the harness to make sure I didnt have and intermitten or loose connection to the solinoids. playing around with pilot jet settings now went out up to one full turn more than factory with little change in performance, will try leaning it out now
 
First off, GT-GADER, please turn your caps lock off. When you type in all capital letters it gives the impression that you are yelling.
Now, about your issue. To me, it sounds like the TORS (throttle override sensor) is acting up. Its very common for Yamahas to spit, sputter, misfire and stall at low rpm when the TORS is acting up. Its a system that is designed to kill the engine when it senses the throttle sticking open. Its a fairly common issue. A lot of people just bypass the system, but you didnt hear that from me. I honestly dont know how to do it and even if I did I still wouldnt tell you how to because I dont believe in defeating safety systems. They are there for a reason.
I know this post is old. Who cares if he used caps? And so what, oh no, I won't tell you how to bypass t.o.r.s lol.. okay there fort knox. You may as well have sat down on your hands and said nothing because nothing you said helped. Id offer my help but this post is way old. I hope you've grown up since.
 
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