[kracked]

Did anyone use this belt last season?
Went into my dealer to purchase a spare belt and he gave me one of those, he said if anyone had drive belt issues last year that "Polaris said to give the customer one of these" also said it "wears like iron".
Heck, I'll take drive belt for free anytime. (dealer said it was about $120 each)

Just wondering how it performs compared to the #3211099 belt.

 

[Snowfused]

I have not tried the 1115 belt yet but may have to. I have smoked several 1099 belts this year and have no miles on them as in 0. I thought that my belt deflection was tight on the first one so I adjusted it. I always let it idle to get up to temp when ever I start the sled and thought that the belt was getting hot. I took it for a short ride the other night and noticed that the belt has a flat spot worn in it again :banghead: This is getting expensive buying belts all the time!
Anyone have any ideas? Will have to pull the clutches off and check them out :dunno:

 

[Snowbeeler]

I have not tried the 1115 belt yet but may have to. I have smoked several 1099 belts this year and have no miles on them as in 0. I thought that my belt deflection was tight on the first one so I adjusted it. I always let it idle to get up to temp when ever I start the sled and thought that the belt was getting hot. I took it for a short ride the other night and noticed that the belt has a flat spot worn in it again :banghead: This is getting expensive buying belts all the time!
Anyone have any ideas? Will have to pull the clutches off and check them out :dunno:[/b]

Could be one of 2 things. You are trying to get the sled moving when it is sticking to something. New carbides on concrete can cause this. Or your drive clutch may be contacting the sides of the belt while idling. There should be a small gap between the belt and drive clutch sheaves when engine is stopped. This is adjustable. If this is the problem, get back for details on changing the gap.

 

[Snowfused]

Could be one of 2 things. You are trying to get the sled moving when it is sticking to something. New carbides on concrete can cause this. Or your drive clutch may be contacting the sides of the belt while idling. There should be a small gap between the belt and drive clutch sheaves when engine is stopped. This is adjustable. If this is the problem, get back for details on changing the gap.[/b]

I always dolly the sled off the concrete. So I suspect that it has something to do with the sheave gap.
What should the gap be?
I checked it has about .020

 

[Snowbeeler]

I always dolly the sled off the concrete. So I suspect that it has something to do with the sheave gap.
What should the gap be?
I checked it has about .020[/b]

.020 is fine. Could you have purchased the belts with a flat spot already on them? That would imply dishonesty by someone at the dealer though. It is sometimes very difficult to see a flat spot on a belt. Can you see where the belt is damaged? Can you try the belt on another FST to verify its the belt you feel surging?

 

[Snowfused]

.020 is fine. Could you have purchased the belts with a flat spot already on them? That would imply dishonesty by someone at the dealer though. It is sometimes very difficult to see a flat spot on a belt. Can you see where the belt is damaged? Can you try the belt on another FST to verify its the belt you feel surging?[/b]

Yes you can see the flat spot on the sides. I did check the wifes 07 fst and this sled has about .060 between the belt and clutch and no problems. There has been no problems with this sled, it is started and run the same as my 06.

 

[bluetoy]

Don't use the 1115 belt. Here is why.

Good advice, especially considering that the 3211115 (from Mitsuboshi) and the 3211080 are made for a primary to secondary clutch center to center distance of 11.5 inches.

the 3211099 used on our sleds is built for a center to center distance of 11 inches. It is about an inch shorter than the 3211115.

Even if you could get the secondary clutch to suck that much slack out of the belt, you would have lower starting clutch ratio, and a lower full shift ratio. This would reduce top end under most conditions.

I blew a belt at the end of last season, but I was in hot pursuit of a Ski-Doo SDI and we had run half the length of Lake Gogebic MI, about 8 miles. It had a LOT of hard miles, on it, I wasn't disappointed.[/b]

 

[ExcursionPSD]

Did anyone use this belt last season?
Went into my dealer to purchase a spare belt and he gave me one of those, he said if anyone had drive belt issues last year that "Polaris said to give the customer one of these" also said it "wears like iron".
Heck, I'll take drive belt for free anytime. (dealer said it was about $120 each)

Just wondering how it performs compared to the #3211099 belt.[/b]

Bluetoy,

right on.

kracked, if your dealer knew you had an FST, and handed you the 321 1115, I would be very concerned about how much he knows about the newer Polaris Four Stroke sleds. List price on the 321 1115 is $170US

This is another opportunity to remind everyone how important it is to carry a spare 321 1099 on your FST. No other Polaris sled has an 11" center to center distance on the clutches and the correct width, so their belts are the wrong length.

 

[kracked]

Thanks to all for the info.........should have done a search on the topic first, I now remember reading about the 1115 belt.

Going to return that belt to the dealer and get a 1099 belt for a spare.

Loading up the trailer and heading for the UP on Wednesday 12/27.
I'm got to ride this thing reguardless of the "less than ideal conditions"

 

[Snowbeeler]

Yes you can see the flat spot on the sides. I did check the wifes 07 fst and this sled has about .060 between the belt and clutch and no problems. There has been no problems with this sled, it is started and run the same as my 06.[/b]

I think there are 2 conversations going on in this thread :smilielol: I will stick to Snofused belt. Basically you are saying that your wifes sled has been fine and you have had 2 belts get a flat spot in a couple miles, right? The next thing I would do is warm your sled up and ride a little, or run it on a stand and check the clearance again between belt and sheeves while hot. If there is still a gap then the next thing I would do is put your wives "good" belt on your sled and see what happens. I am not convinced yet you didn't get bad belts.

 

[Snowfused]

I think there are 2 conversations going on in this thread :smilielol: I will stick to Snofused belt. Basically you are saying that your wifes sled has been fine and you have had 2 belts get a flat spot in a couple miles, right? The next thing I would do is warm your sled up and ride a little, or run it on a stand and check the clearance again between belt and sheeves while hot. If there is still a gap then the next thing I would do is put your wives "good" belt on your sled and see what happens. I am not convinced yet you didn't get bad belts.[/b]

I took the sled back to my dealer today and after checking alignment and inspection he found that the casting of the Primary clutch to be bad. The area where the alum & steel meet.
New Clutch on order from Polaris.
Thanks for the help!

 

[Snowbeeler]

I took the sled back to my dealer today and after checking alignment and inspection he found that the casting of the Primary clutch to be bad. The area where the alum & steel meet.
New Clutch on order from Polaris.
Thanks for the help![/b]

Are you talking about the sheaves near the shaft? What was actually wrong? Rough surface? You should get 2 new belts also right?

 

[Snowfused]

Are you talking about the sheaves near the shaft? What was actually wrong? Rough surface? You should get 2 new belts also right?[/b]

Yes the area near the shaft is quit rough. I asked about the belts but all they said is we will ask Poo. I did hour glass a belt last year but blamed it on getting stuck. It only seems to happen when the sled idles so i hope this solves the problem. So that would make 3 belts from this problem. Hope they do something to compensate me.

 

[Snowbeeler]

Yes the area near the shaft is quit rough. I asked about the belts but all they said is we will ask Poo. I did hour glass a belt last year but blamed it on getting stuck. It only seems to happen when the sled idles so i hope this solves the problem. So that would make 3 belts from this problem. Hope they do something to compensate me.[/b]

Hopefully that solves the problem. You could fix that area with sand paper, but if they are going to replace the clutch, why not. I wouldn't miss any riding over it though. Poo is very strict about replacing belts. I guess they have to be if you know what I mean.