Mines been perfect. 2500 miles. Tuned. Replace to the updated reeds and do the billet manifolds after a season. Not needed when new imo

 

what was updated on the reeds

 

For 2024 they changed them. More durable

 

The Service kit is a new number for one set of reed valves. You will need 1 set for each cylinder.

K-REED PETAL, 269 [SVC KIT FOR ONE REED VALVE]
Replaces old 2211857
Updated Item # 2212393 [SVC KIT FOR ONE REED VALVE] $100US

MY25 Boost Switchback Reed Valve & Throttle Body Adapter

 

last couple of rides mine developed a idle surge between 4300 and 4550 rpm. strange idle surge not anywhere below or above that rpm slp boost weights

 

Might be a bad P-22 roller hub causing belt drag.

 

customer has over 5000 miles on his, I'm at over 3000 on mine, plus I work on a few, biggest things I see---- reeds need to be updated, pto crank seals are known to leak, auxiliary injectors, can be an issue, and waste gate actuator can go bad.
That said, I love mine.

 

some people are saying the boost motor themselves are showing better longevity than NA. Any truth to that ?

something about having an extra set of injectors and different rings but can’t recall for certain

 

Just over 5000 miles on mine no problems up to this Saturday changed the stock reed power flow valve to the new TRS ran like a dream less smoke on start up and warm up and 20 to 50 mph but noticed a hesitation around 79 mph and up and could only get 113 mph at 7850 rpm, always get 120 ish and 8250 rpm, is it possible the o2 sensor needs to be replaced and the sled was detecting a lean or detonation and retarded the timing when I was over 79 mph ? any thoughts on this. Has any one had any problems when swapping to the new TRS power flow valve?

 

pretty much what has happened to mine after switching to the copycat brp-trs valve. my factory valve was perfect, I did have a lot of oil in air box did you?

 

Not sure how you guys are expecting certain mph between different days and surfaces. Im
As bad as 105 and as good as 125 depending on the day and conditions. I’ve never once got to run on smooth ice. That would probably be 130 speedo range / max out stock gearing

 

You know what. Come to mention it. My sled never had the issue of dropping rpm until after I added one too. I did a few other things around same time so I wasn’t sure

I’ve messed with a few things clutch. New belt. Shifted weight around. I have to basically have it setup to slightly over rev 83-8400 then it drops to 81-8200 and holds

are you guys getting rpm drop like that or is it low the whole time ?

 

with the trs valve you are seeing minor det. you will need to run better fuel. that's your low rpm issue. i have a whole bunch of boost with these. and no one is beating them across the lake. stock vs. stock. i have a whole bunch of very satified boost owners.

 

Always run 91 with couple of oz of boostane for backup when way out in the boonies.

 

So if there isn't any O2 sensor can the Boost auto learn the air/fuel ratio or is it preset by mapping and needs to be adjusted when adding the TRS valve? I believe mine is running super lean. Almost no smoke on start up and warm up to day, ran it in the garage after cleaning the power valves that were so gummed up took 1 hr to wiggle out. Watched my RPM and boost, Boost was very erratic, and R's at WOT 7600,this tells my boost problem and timing is retarded, so know leaning towards map sensor, or boost control solenoid?/ , or spring rod to the waste gate?? any ideas any one.

 

The ECU does not have any automatic learning as far as air/fuel mixture. It has a lot of sensor inputs that guide the ECU in mapping the interplay of the two pair of fuel injectors and boost pressure. But if it is lean or has Detonation or high exhaust temperatures, in a certain set of circumstances, if that similar set of circumstances occurs again, it will do the same thing. It does not LEARN / auto adjust.

 

Ok, so I know the fuel is good, guessing the Boost is not in control, might as well bring it in to see if any codes came up, and go from there.

 

I,m back happy as ever, after cleaning jammed power valves brought to my dealer told what I said above and asked if he could do a relearn on the waste gate and the power valves. they connected D/wrench and relearned, did a stand run up got 8400 said could to go charged me 62 CND (40 us). took her out for ck ride running the best it has ever run as first time with the TRS valve plus added aggressive snow trackers WOW what a difference now rails and goes like a formula 1. lessen learned CLEAN POWERVALVES every 2ooo miles or when you change your plugs LOL.. Funny thing is when the Sled was in limp mode ( be for I realized ) a DOO 850 buddy begged me to let him have a go on the boost, he got off and told his other doo buddies that this was a great sled with huge power not sure if I should let him try it know. OH almost forgot service report shows 37 trys that the EV Command tried to achieve position and timed out. Code P3037 and P3036

 

May have found my backfiring issue 2000 miles on these plugs. Gotta like the orange boostane crust. pretty sure exhaust valves need a cleaning

 

I feel dirty plug boots cause alot of issues on all sleds not just boost and should be checked from time to time , those are yucky !

 

Those BPR9EIX plugs don't last with the screw on caps. Just run the regular ones with solid caps.

 

Starting with MY25, Polaris has recommended for ALL the Patriot Liquid cooled engines:

https://www.polaris.com/en-us/shop/off-road/maintenance/3024357/?pfm=Search

For those who want solid terminal BPR8ES spark plugs without the screw-off terminal nut, order NGK# 95521
NGK.com #95521 BPR8ES spark plug
this is a little hotter spark plug: BPR8ES. It is Polaris part# 3024357. Some were having plug fouling problems, during breakin.

I'm sure the incomplete combustion, contributed to the dirty exhaust valves.

 

Starting with MY25, Polaris has recommended for ALL the Patriot Liquid cooled engines:

https://www.polaris.com/en-us/shop/off-road/maintenance/3024357/?pfm=Search

For those who want solid terminal BPR8ES spark plugs without the screw-off terminal nut, order NGK# 95521
NGK.com #95521 BPR8ES spark plug
this is a little colder spark plug: BPR8ES. It is Polaris part# 3024357

I'm sure the incomplete combustion, contributed to the dirty exhaust valves.

Just a side note most tunes out there are/were developed on the 23/24 base tune with BPR9ES .

 

This a hotter plug BPR8ES then a BPR9ES.

 

Yes

 

Just fyi if you’re using boostane change plugs way more often and clean valves. The orange stuff that it produces carps stuff up faster. It’s good stuff and works well just need to stay on the maintenance

 

Yeah these plugs have 2000 miles on them did pretty good. put a boat load of nos through it a swell. cant get solid top eix plugs as far as I know. those plugs were drenched in dielectric grease originally. The valves were no different than any of my 850's usually clean them a 1500miles. I wouldn't run the regular bprs, the eix always run crisper and stronger idle. My sleds are usually traded by now. it's normally someone else problem. No 9r boost so going to have to wait

 

Any one indexing there plugs, I have found a much nicer burn. Also plugs with the reed valve had dark burn insulators with some crust around the bottom of the grd electrode and base edge ,lots of smoke on warm up and the red cold warning would disappear at 76F now with the TRS I have light tan insulator cleaner looking plugs possible to the lean side, very little smoke on warm up and red cold engine bar goes off at 61F.

 

Possibly in break in mode before ?

 

I am not aware of anything that changes the temperature at which the red cold engine bar goes off.

 

I do have a ? for you, when you update the 23 to the 24/25 ECU does this improve high end rpm engine run ability?

 

the TRS valve is not letting any boost presure leak out of the air box. it works regaurdless of what others say. would make sense your plugs look good now. it would be rich if boost presure leaks. we tested this with smoke. the stock reed in the air doesn't seal well at sea level boost presure of 3 lbs.

 

need help identifying two new codes spn 523953 fmi 5 and 523949 fmi 7

 

I'd recommend that you start a thread in an appropriate forum, and include the exact model of snowmobile having this problem.

 

I believe the title says 23 boost which what the fuck I have!!!!

 

You knew that, but I didn't.

A lot of owners will use a Polaris 7SDD gauge to look up the description of the diagnostic codes being issued by the ECU.