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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I got to ride my new sled this past weekend, first procross for me also. First off that 600 is a pretty sweet engine, very responsive and smooth! However, I didn’t like the handling. Mine has a very bad push in the turns and if it does bite, it’s on one ski. I haven’t touched anything yet but I’m planning to suck up the limiter strap and maybe tighten up the front ski springs a bit. My buddy has a 2018 zr 8000 that’s all stock suspension wise including the dual runner carbides that cat has (mine has single runners) and that corners way better than mine but his is also a 129 inch. Also I need to add weight to the clutch or soften the primary spring cuz it over revs big time to the tune of 8500 rpm at wot. I can get 8100 rpm at less that half throttle. Anyone have any input to my “dilemmas”? I see some guys are replacing skis but if I can get mine to turn like my buddy’s sled I’d be happy and he has stock skis. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you

On edit: I love that 1.350 cobra track! It makes that engine and brake feel phenomenal!
 

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Bring rpm down with weight, a spring won't really do much for shift out rpm. I always try to soften the front track shock as much as I can before pulling in the strap. Doing one or both should help it alot. Sweet sled
 

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I would recommend starting with loosening your center shock spring first, if its not already. That will get your front lower and more pressure on the skis. I literally go to a loose spring and then go 1 or 2 turns tighter to start. If your banging ditches that may not be what works but for trail riding its a good start. If not enough, adjust your front shock springs second. From there I would consider bigger carbides or different skis if you are looking for razor sharp handling. I would leave the limiter strap for last. I always like to start soft on spring settings and work into a setting that works for my style of riding. The limiter strap takes away the transfer on coupled suspensions, so for me its a last result change. Trail sleds handle best as low to the ground as you can get them.
 

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So I got to ride my new sled this past weekend, first procross for me also. First off that 600 is a pretty sweet engine, very responsive and smooth! However, I didn’t like the handling. Mine has a very bad push in the turns and if it does bite, it’s on one ski. I haven’t touched anything yet but I’m planning to suck up the limiter strap and maybe tighten up the front ski springs a bit. My buddy has a 2018 zr 8000 that’s all stock suspension wise including the dual runner carbides that cat has (mine has single runners) and that corners way better than mine but his is also a 129 inch. Also I need to add weight to the clutch or soften the primary spring cuz it over revs big time to the tune of 8500 rpm at wot. I can get 8100 rpm at less that half throttle. Anyone have any input to my “dilemmas”? I see some guys are replacing skis but if I can get mine to turn like my buddy’s sled I’d be happy and he has stock skis. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you

On edit: I love that 1.350 cobra track! It makes that engine and brake feel phenomenal!
the comments new front end/front skid arm geometry and steering are all over the place.
https://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/493-procross-2012/1866284-ski-lift.html
https://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/493-procross-2012/1865364-suspension-adjustments.html

are you getting your body forward in the seat cup and leaning aggressively? what were the trail conditions like? shocks set on soft/med/firm? here on Saturday we had 4-5" of powder on top of hard pack and my sled which normally steers like a ginsu knife was pushing quite a bit while breaking trail for the group I was leading. later in the day after trails got packed down it was back to normal. in the morning the push was bad enough I considered adding ski spring pressure but was just too lazy to do it. :)

maybe wait for another ride in different conditions (hard groomed) and as mnstang suggested tinker with the fts spring and ski spring pressure but don't pull the limiter straps right away. limiter straps come into play more when full throttle and how often are we at full throttle mid-corner?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I looked at the front skid spring and I can grab it and move it so it’s not that tight but I may be able to loosen it up a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bring rpm down with weight, a spring won't really do much for shift out rpm. I always try to soften the front track shock as much as I can before pulling in the strap. Doing one or both should help it alot. Sweet sled
Thanks man, I’m looking at some 68 gram weights, stock is 66 and using a 120/235 spring with stock being 120/265. That should bring it down some. Also may get the 105/225 spring as a last resort. Weights are expensive at $45 each compared to a spring.
 

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Thanks man, I’m looking at some 68 gram weights, stock is 66 and using a 120/235 spring with stock being 120/265. That should bring it down some. Also may get the 105/225 spring as a last resort. Weights are expensive at $45 each compared to a spring.
seem to recall @Greg B. or @team1 saying Jeremy at Speedwerx suggested not messing with the RXC clutching but don't precisely recall why???

what type of trails/snow were you on?
 

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I have never messed with a rxc. My 600 I ran a tied, weights in the low 70s 140/290 spring in the primary
 

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Thanks man, I’m looking at some 68 gram weights, stock is 66 and using a 120/235 spring with stock being 120/265. That should bring it down some. Also may get the 105/225 spring as a last resort. Weights are expensive at $45 each compared to a spring.
Just pay attention with that spring. Not just about the start and finish published pounds but it's the rate of the spring you feel and that spring will have less rate and the sled probably won't be as snappy with that spring almost like a little slower backshift. Might not be an issue but something to keep in mind when testing. I don't really like the lower rate springs. Might want to make sure the spring isn't binding on the little cup it sits in too because it's weird it's over revving that much.
 

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I have never messed with a rxc. My 600 I ran a tied, weights in the low 70s 140/290 spring in the primary
it wasn't you, there was a lot of commentary in another RXC thread
In a recent ArcticInsider interview with Zach Herfindahl, Herfindahl stated he was clutch tuning with Jeremy Houle and Ron Gilland of Speedwerx and found no significant gains from the stock calibration.
https://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/493-procross-2012/1661722-2017-600-xc-disappointing-14.html#post17892609


Just pay attention with that spring. Not just about the start and finish published pounds but it's the rate of the spring you feel and that spring will have less rate and the sled probably won't be as snappy with that spring almost like a little slower backshift. Might not be an issue but something to keep in mind when testing. I don't really like the lower rate springs. Might want to make sure the spring isn't binding on the little cup it sits in too because it's weird it's over revving that much.
someone here with a new 8000 put in a stiffer secondary spring which helped, but I don't feel like looking for that right now.

we still haven't heard what the conditions were, his speed, etc. studded or not? lot's of variables including track spin. maybe they're clutched for studs? :)
 

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I’ll second the comment about the conditions. I have my sled dialed in pretty well and these conditions in the north east are not great. Very little base with loose snow on top. Nothing to grab onto. I always loosen the front skid spring first, and make sure I have typical conditions (decent base, groomed) to test on. Obviously handling will be different in powder.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
First day conditions were typical hardback groomed trail, not mealy or sugary at all and very cold with a high of about 4 degrees in northern Maine. It over revved right off the bat like 8300++ from mile zero. I feel that traction wasn’t an issue as it felt like it hooked up well and I have 2 studs per row and they’re 1.450 long. I didn’t think about clutches binding to tell you the truth. I figured Cat didn’t really care about clutching on that sled since racers would reclutch anyways. I’m still comparing the handling to my buddy’s 2018 that was riding with me to my sled so conditions are the same and his was significantly better. I will look at the front skid shock and will probably pull up the limiter cuz I do that on every sled I’ve owned, I just like that feel but his zr8000 hasn’t been touched at all so I don’t know, I was really expecting it to carve but maybe the track has that much more bite and makes it that harder to turn? I appreciate all the suggestions so keep them coming!
 

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They run a much higher spring rate on the front arm of the Rxc than a regular 6 or 8000. That makes them more difficult to get to turn, but you are on the right path. As far as the overrev, if you are that much over 8200, that's probably a good sign you are making good power. 68 or even better, 70g weights would help. I would go 70, then you could grind off if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
They run a much higher spring rate on the front arm of the Rxc than a regular 6 or 8000. That makes them more difficult to get to turn, but you are on the right path. As far as the overrev, if you are that much over 8200, that's probably a good sign you are making good power. 68 or even better, 70g weights would help. I would go 70, then you could grind off if needed.
I see many saying they have a hard time breaking or even reaching 90mph. I saw 90 manipulating the throttle on the second tank of fuel. By manipulating I mean I couldn’t just put it to the bar, I had to use half throttle to get to 85 due to over rev and then just squeezing it a bit more to see 90. I didn’t use full throttle to get there so I’m hoping it’s got decent top end, not that I bought this sled for top end but I’d like it to be mid 90s anyway.
I will soften up the front track spring a bit for sure before shortening the limiter so I don’t lose much travel on the front arm. I’ll hopefully get there sooner rather than later.
 

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Don't touch the strap and don't touch the weights (yet). Learn the intricacies of the sled's suspension adjustments and adjust your riding style a bit. The skis are a weak point on the PC. Learn to deal with them or throw them away and put something proper on there.

It was your first ride on a new chassis for you. I can take weeks or longer to get my sled dialed in the way I want it after I buy it. But I don't start tearing at it right away....that's how people fuck up their sleds then end up selling it because "it didn't work".
 

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Yeah and before I touch anything I measure the spring and write it down so you can always go back to square one if needed. And I write down every adjustment I do too just to keep track of things. It helps
 

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Yeah and before I touch anything I measure the spring and write it down so you can always go back to square one if needed. And I write down every adjustment I do too just to keep track of things. It helps
Smart people do this. I've got pages of adjustments and alternate adjustments recorded. It matters. :bc:
 

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First day conditions were typical hardback groomed trail, not mealy or sugary at all and very cold with a high of about 4 degrees in northern Maine. It over revved right off the bat like 8300++ from mile zero. I feel that traction wasn’t an issue as it felt like it hooked up well and I have 2 studs per row and they’re 1.450 long. I didn’t think about clutches binding to tell you the truth. I figured Cat didn’t really care about clutching on that sled since racers would reclutch anyways. I’m still comparing the handling to my buddy’s 2018 that was riding with me to my sled so conditions are the same and his was significantly better. I will look at the front skid shock and will probably pull up the limiter cuz I do that on every sled I’ve owned, I just like that feel but his zr8000 hasn’t been touched at all so I don’t know, I was really expecting it to carve but maybe the track has that much more bite and makes it that harder to turn? I appreciate all the suggestions so keep them coming!
I have about 400 miles on my 2020 RXC and am running 96 1.45 gold diggers and curves with 6" bars. I haven't touched anything except for transfer blocks on 3/7, rear preload on 2 both sides and all QS3's on position 2. This is my first procross as well. The main reason I bought this sled is because of how the ergonomics allow you to really crowd the tank and side panels while cornering. I rode a Riot at a demo day and this was the first thing I noticed about the sled. Also, given how high the roll center is on the front end I find the RXC responds extremely well to on-power steering, especially in deep holes/chop. Put your nuts on the tank and let it rip. I find the clutching allows for really good power modulation too, which seems to be the best way to directly influence how the sled corners. Given the spring rates spec'd on the sled it doesn't seem like there is a big opportunity for the type of improvement you are looking for going that route. I would adjust your riding style first and log some more miles before getting too crazy...my opinions.

Also, in regards to the top speed....I ride this thing like a leaf blower so as long as it closes in on 90 on most days its not gonna change my opinions about the 600. It will come out of a corner very strong though!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have about 400 miles on my 2020 RXC and am running 96 1.45 gold diggers and curves with 6" bars. I haven't touched anything except for transfer blocks on 3/7, rear preload on 2 both sides and all QS3's on position 2. This is my first procross as well. The main reason I bought this sled is because of how the ergonomics allow you to really crowd the tank and side panels while cornering. I rode a Riot at a demo day and this was the first thing I noticed about the sled. Also, given how high the roll center is on the front end I find the RXC responds extremely well to on-power steering, especially in deep holes/chop. Put your nuts on the tank and let it rip. I find the clutching allows for really good power modulation too, which seems to be the best way to directly influence how the sled corners. Given the spring rates spec'd on the sled it doesn't seem like there is a big opportunity for the type of improvement you are looking for going that route. I would adjust your riding style first and log some more miles before getting too crazy...my opinions.

Also, in regards to the top speed....I ride this thing like a leaf blower so as long as it closes in on 90 on most days its not gonna change my opinions about the 600. It will come out of a corner very strong though!
I love the engine but I definitely didn’t buy this sled for top speed and I like how crisp the engine is but I just want to bring the top rpm down so it’s not so far out of the powerband. I’m going to try a spring in the primary first that’s 30lbs softer at compression and see what that does.

I’m studded similar to you but all my shocks are set at 1 although I did put the skis on 2 which seemed to help, I really don’t want to throw skis at it yet but I will if I need to. The rear coupler is fully coupled now and rear spring preload is on 1. I didn’t have any tools with me to change ski spring preload which I think would help, I plan on doing that before I go on my next trip along with softening up the front arm spring. Thanks for the suggestions.
I also only have just under 400 miles so far.
 

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I have a 2020 6000 R XC and feel its the best handling sled I have ever owned and I have 2020 XCR and 2019 8000 Eltigre and 2018 6000 R XC. I am running curve ski with 6" shapers. Front spring preload at 1/8" and front skid shock at 3/8" preload torsion spring 1 medium 1 soft (I am 190 rider) Its a slot car in corners compared to my other sleds. New front and rear skid work really good IMO It does over rev but first thing you should do is switch your helix from 38 to 40. They do come stock with both just swap x on helix on your secondary. I also changed my primary spring with little softer one forget exact pound but will look and get back with you. Runs right at 8150 to 8200 now. Changing helix will make it pull a lot harder alone. Stock ski's suck IMO but at least try some shaper bars will help the push. Good luck
 
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