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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Im waiting to see dyno results from the domes. They dont list it online or facebook. They told me it would need more timing than the head mod. Because its cut like an lts mod.

So it will have lower compression than the head mod and less hp since it has not been dynoed and they have not adjusted the flash for timing to accommodate the head.
I was a little bit hesitant as well. But when I called and talked to them, they told me that the flash that I was getting it was for the new style head mod. They said they wanted to do a little more field testing on it and that they possibly might tweak the flash a little bit before releasing it for this next season coming up. The domes do lower compression a little vs stock, but not as much as the “original” LTS. I usually run 10% ethanol 93, but some places only have 90 oct non-ethanol. I keep some octanium in my tunnel bag in case I fill up with 90. Wife and I did an overnight trip late in the season and had to fill with 90. Temps got up into mid to high 30’s on way home and I was running it hard. Thought I heard it ping a few times. When I brought it to the shop to put it away for summer I hooked up the Catt 2 tool to it and it did pull timing 3 times that day. But not enough for octane code. Don’t think that would have happened if my flash didn’t have more timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Wife’s 20 is all stock engine wise and she was running just as hard as me and her sled never pulled timing with same fuel that day.
 

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Hmm. They said they were going to dyno this year and get correct timing. My flash was purchased in January. And i have pump gas head mod. I will email them again and get a definitive answer to what flash i have.

Thanks for replying
 

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I did the complete kit without the heads. How did this run compared to stock. I never go tor un mine after I got the parts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
I did the complete kit without the heads. How did this run compared to stock. I never go tor un mine after I got the parts.
Noticeably stronger in low end and midrange. I compared mostly to my wife’s 20. But it’s almost not a fair comparison. Her sled walks piped 850’s. It is ridiculously strong for a stock engine 800. Her sled still pulls mine on top, on a run long enough, but her clutching is damn near spot on and I struggled dialing mine in till snow went away. Opening up the airbox helps the ctec 800 a lot. I’ve been tempted to mess with the wife’s a little, but can’t bring myself to do it. It just works that good. That being said, once I get my clutching dialed… my 21 will be a stellar runner.
 

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How is it done? I have a XF 8000 HC -19 and want to do some small stuff to it..
With a drill buddy. Bullseyes. FrogSkinz.
May want to look at Thunder Products TPI valves; Bulls Eyes have been known to fall out and FrogSkinz are designed primarily to be breathers (ie. let heat out as opposed to letting air in; kind of like Gore-Tex). Also, the TPIs can be closed off if you ride in powder snow (Frogskinz won't let snow in but Bulls Eyes may)
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
May want to look at Thunder Products TPI valves; Bulls Eyes have been known to fall out and FrogSkinz are designed primarily to be breathers (ie. let heat out as opposed to letting air in; kind of like Gore-Tex). Also, the TPIs can be closed off if you ride in powder snow (Frogskinz won't let snow in but Bulls Eyes may)
I have seen some snow ingestion on a few sleds over the years with bullseyes and some fall out. I did use bullseyes on my sled mainly because the size of them was more convenient to where I wanted to put them. I drill a hole slightly smaller than instructions and use loctite 5910 to help hold them in. Have never had an issue with them coming out.
 

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I have seen some snow ingestion on a few sleds over the years with bullseyes and some fall out. I did use bullseyes on my sled mainly because the size of them was more convenient to where I wanted to put them. I drill a hole slightly smaller than instructions and use loctite 5910 to help hold them in. Have never had an issue with them coming out.
How many did you use?
 

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I bought one of the first sets of TPI valves ever sold, I think, in ‘01. Can’t remember the last time I have seen a set. I remember cutting the square holes into the air box with a jig saw. I can’t think of a place that would be convenient or slightly used them a procross
 

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I bought one of the first sets of TPI valves ever sold, I think, in ‘01. Can’t remember the last time I have seen a set. I remember cutting the square holes into the air box with a jig saw. I can’t think of a place that would be convenient or slightly used them a procross
I placed them so they are just visible behind the upper lateral cowlings. I fabbed a piece of corner angle out of aluminum and heated it to make the holes, thereby avoiding filling the airbox with plastics cuttings. By my quick calculations, one TPI is equivalent to about 2 Bulls eyes (in terms of intake area). I think 2 should suffice for a 600 (added those and VForce reeds, hope to get a combined 3.5 - 4 hp on top and maybe a bit more in the mids). As for the TPIs, I like the fact they can be closed and won't fall out (screwed in)
 
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