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Freind asked for help. I know NSP has a kit, and Gabes. Anyone have any "this works better" than stock setups for trails? Weights, springs, helix? 22/41 1.86 gears seems plenty low enough. Looks like secondary spring is pretty high rates and helix could be improved on.
 

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We really think Ricks/nsp kit is stop on in are 800 and 600 assaults. His kit is just springs and helix for the 600 and it works and improves MPH. You figure if you try 2 springs in both clutches and theres a $100. , then try a diff helix and your over $200.. If I remember right ricks kit for the 600 was $225. or $275. and your there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Why guess, Northstar has put in the time to get it right. Call him up, let him fix you up, Never be afraid of getting the best, you will always be happy with it.
Not looking to guess,if it was my sled I would, asking if anyone has a "this works" setup, also my friend has a low budget, I have several helixs , weights and springs I can throw at the sled to save her some money. I just don't want to spend time testing next winter. The oem secondary spring is a 160/240. I am sure a 120 to 140/200 to 220 would help there.
 

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Most stick with the stock 10-64s. Tried to help a friend the same way.
120-310 prim.spr. and 140-220 secondary was an improvement for sure.
He went back to stock, apparently he thinks it's faster turning his 16 pro-s at 8350-8400. Another friend left his 15 pro-s sb clutching stock,but is running a helix from an 15 or 16 axys 800.It seems to be alright , but I think his still runs around 8300. Neither like their sled setup like mine. I tend to run on the aggressive side and make the engine work.
Can't really go by my 15 now, been running heavy hitter weights and switch from stock to a full progressive helix(depending on snow conditions) with the springs above.
 

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It depends what your freind is after, if on a budget i would try softer springs and or maybe a slightly more aggressive helix. I tried the gabes kit everyone raves about(in my rush) and was not impressed with anything about it. I have never owned a kit i have been impressed with, most are “secret” parts that dont work as well as advertised am dwhen you want to make a change you dont know what you have.
 

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From my experience with 4 different Pro-s 600s. 15-17, short and sb. Splitting hairs, they all run slightly different. Then you have driver weight ,traction ect..ect... Your cheapest/simplest bet is sh$t can the stock secondary spring for either a 140-220 or 140-200.Then maybe add a lighter finish on the primary spring.
I like the 120-310,but some people like the higher engagement/revy feel of something that starts at 140. Other option if you have it, a 46-42 full or stock type xx-44 .46/.36 may work alright with the stock springs and 10-64s. Everyone expects & likes something different, don't think you're going to get "this works better" setup. Too many variables. Sorry, my $.02. Good luck.
 

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From my experience with 4 different Pro-s 600s. 15-17, short and sb. Splitting hairs, they all run slightly different. Then you have driver weight ,traction ect..ect... Your cheapest/simplest bet is sh$t can the stock secondary spring for either a 140-220 or 140-200.Then maybe add a lighter finish on the primary spring.
I like the 120-310,but some people like the higher engagement/revy feel of something that starts at 140. Other option if you have it, a 46-42 full or stock type xx-44 .46/.36 may work alright with the stock springs and 10-64s. Everyone expects & likes something different, don't think you're going to get "this works better" setup. Too many variables. Sorry, my $.02. Good luck.
What rpm do the axys 600s run best at in your experience? There was talk on another board that they like to be run a little higher than the rush/indy.
 

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What rpm do the axys 600s run best at in your experience? There was talk on another board that they like to be run a little higher than the rush/indy.
I try to get it 8050-8150 and climb 8200-8300 on top. Depends on drag racing or just all around trail.
I'm pretty sure axys sleds have a different primary clutch cut/degree on the sheaves which makes them shift faster also.
The reason why guys can run more aggressive clutching on an indy(that and the axys driveline is less efficient). Apples for apples.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
From my experience with 4 different Pro-s 600s. 15-17, short and sb. Splitting hairs, they all run slightly different. Then you have driver weight ,traction ect..ect... Your cheapest/simplest bet is sh$t can the stock secondary spring for either a 140-220 or 140-200.Then maybe add a lighter finish on the primary spring.
I like the 120-310,but some people like the higher engagement/revy feel of something that starts at 140. Other option if you have it, a 46-42 full or stock type xx-44 .46/.36 may work alright with the stock springs and 10-64s. Everyone expects & likes something different, don't think you're going to get "this works better" setup. Too many variables. Sorry, my $.02. Good luck.
Yeah I know the variables. I guess I should have said I want opinions? Just picking brains. The gal is a lightweight, so she doesn't load the motor much herself. I am not even sure if her hubby studded the track or not. The blu/wht and a 140/200 were my first thoughts. And I have them. Same for a 46-42 fp since I put a P2 on my Indy last year. I'll balance the 64's, which seem the best weight on a Indy 6 or Axys 6 and probably reshim the clutch.
 

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Not looking to guess,if it was my sled I would, asking if anyone has a "this works" setup, also my friend has a low budget, I have several helixs , weights and springs I can throw at the sled to save her some money. I just don't want to spend time testing next winter. The oem secondary spring is a 160/240. I am sure a 120 to 140/200 to 220 would help there.
IMO it does help to go to the lighter springs. I am running the 140/220.
 

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Yeah I know the variables. I guess I should have said I want opinions? Just picking brains. The gal is a lightweight, so she doesn't load the motor much herself. I am not even sure if her hubby studded the track or not. The blu/wht and a 140/200 were my first thoughts. And I have them. Same for a 46-42 fp since I put a P2 on my Indy last year. I'll balance the 64's, which seem the best weight on a Indy 6 or Axys 6 and probably reshim the clutch.
120/140-320 drive spring, stock weights, 140/200 driven, and you said you have a 46-42 f helix? use that or try the stock helix. you want a 42 or 40 finish angle for a 600. you want 8150-8250 rpm's if it revs more than that go to 10-66 weights. we had to put 10-66 weights in one of the iron dog race sleds this year?
 

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As a 600 owner I can say that the NSP kit works great much improved acceleration, snappy feel and getting to top speed is way quicker over the stock set up. Rick has done his homework on this one!! Can't wait to see what he will do for my new 850 next season!
 

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got rid of the stock spring in my '15 Adventure with 1.75" - put in the spring from my 2011 SBA which IIRC is a 120-200. Which is better than stock but I feel it is a little too soft. I'm gonna try a 140-200 next.

Also, power delivery is kinda jerky at low end - kinda irritating when I have to ride real slow due to poor visibility
 

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got rid of the stock spring in my '15 Adventure with 1.75" - put in the spring from my 2011 SBA which IIRC is a 120-200. Which is better than stock but I feel it is a little too soft. I'm gonna try a 140-200 next.

Also, power delivery is kinda jerky at low end - kinda irritating when I have to ride real slow due to poor visibility
What do you attribute that to?
 

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Jerky is not the right word, its more of a power surge once its passing a certain rpm.
I think its a combination of the 600's powerband + clutching. I suspect the soft sec spring makes it a little worse by allowing it to overshift a little.

(Then, i'm kinda spoilt by riding 800's since 2002, more torque which allowed for lower engagement and more linear power delivery at low end)
 

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I admittedly don't know squat about clutching (trying to learn). Spoke with a guy last week on his 2015 600 Switchback. Said he had geared it down, giving him the little more low-end grunt he wanted, but also claimed he maintained his top-end - even improved it a bit?? Clutching was stock. Said he was surprised himself, but thought the clutch worked more "efficiently" with the gearing change.

Doesn't seem logical to me, but is that even possible?
 

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Polaris often like to gear their sleds tall , to not run out of gearing even in super-optimal conditions. That means in most other conditions , some gearing down might be beneficial
 
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