Hardcore Sledder banner

21 - 39 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
2015 Polaris Switchback 600 Pro S
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Thanks for comments and input on the thread - appreciate it! I followed your threads and went back and forth on which track to get...think this 1.5 Storm track will be a good fit for me and my riding style. In regards to the bushings and bearings question - the chain case bearing seemed good but since I had done a lot of work and labor I replaced it. I read a lot about the bearing behind the secondary and it felt a slight bit "heavy/gritty" with turning...wasn't as comfortable with taking off the seal cover and repacking although may in the future so I had the time to read up on removal of the bearing and opted to replace. Same with the bearing on the driveshaft - opted to replace but just a little bit gritty with turning. All of the bogey wheel bearings except 2 were in sad shape - some with seals lost and dirt packed into bearing - all replaced. The bushings - had Hygear replace all suspension bushings at time of service, all of the plastic oem bushings attaching the front skid to tunnel and rear skid to rails were ground to near dust - came apart with removal / some slop in the system which I opted to remove with Kent's aftermarket bushings. The bushings for the beaver tail attachment points were actually still good - did not replace. At the kind suggestion of Mag6240 I just removed the A arms/control arms and the plastic bushings were dried out and brittle with wear on the flange - a lot of movement. Mag6240 pointed me to this website for brass replacement bushings AXYS A ARM BUSHING KIT | indyspecialty which arrived yesterday. I will post pics of that install in the thread. Hope that is helpful - please let me know if you have other questions or if people want other pics posted.
 

·
Registered
2015 Polaris Switchback 600 Pro S
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Here are the brass bushings from indyspecialty.com
2104687


Installed on the A arms - replacing the OEM bushings which were worn as discussed earlier.

2104688

2104689


Unexpectedly I ran into a situation on the left side of the sled. I had a bit of a rough late season ride to close things out - have been focused on a lot of different aspects to the sled and failed to notice that my left sway bar bracket was broken:

2104690


Initially thought it was isolated but on inspection the lower A arm had a ding in the underside with a slight bend noticeable if looking down it longitudinally. Then - when I went to replace back lower pin into the new bushing it wouldn't fit - it had a slight bend as well. So, I am not taking any chances with my steering - ordered a new left lower A arm and components and will be replacing entire unit.
 

·
Registered
2015 Polaris Switchback 600 Pro S
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
A arms reinstalled with new bushings. Left side lower arm replaced with new arm and hardware. Next step will be ski alignment.

2104953


2104954
 

·
Registered
2015 Polaris Switchback 600 Pro S
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
new flap installed - other was a bit track chewed.

2105201


Added strap - prevents flap from getting sucked into track in reverse:
2105289
 

·
Registered
2015 Polaris Switchback 600 Pro S
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Installed Gabes 600 clutch kit - great service and can't wait until I test on the snow. 4100 rpm engagement on the lift. float on secondary .023 / range is .01 - .05. Adjusted toe and replaced the rubber ski damper on the Mohawks - was pretty compressed under the spindle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,532 Posts
I see you used a socket headed bolt to secure the top rear of the flap to the tubular bumper. Makes it a lot easier, if you have to get back in there to work on the Heat Exchanger or do other suspension work. I don't carry a drill or a rivet gun on the trail.

I'll check and see how the dampeners are holding up under the SLP Mohawks on the MY15 of mine, that's going into reserve status.
 

·
Registered
2018 XCR Switchback 800
Joined
·
1,571 Posts
No drill or rivet gun here either, but I’ve made a successful repair of that weak flap attachment trail side poking a hole through with a screw driver. I did the bolt solution when I got home.
2105221

2105226
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,532 Posts
Well done MacGyver!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,441 Posts
Looking good looking good.
With the kill switch i had deleted mine and added a tether. I usually use the key to turn it on and off. Nice to clean up the bars. I had never thought of using a momentary switch like the RSI one you used.
I put some cheetah factory racing bars on mine last fall. I love em. Turcotte signature bend.
Also i love the motorized hydraulic bottle jack for the sled lift.
 

·
Registered
2015 Polaris Switchback 600 Pro S
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
thx Kent ! The momentary switch fit the bill for me and the tether just adds an extra layer of safety. The lift is awesome - just hook up my compressor and go - five different height set points with safety bars that lock position - can wheel around garage and work at a good height. Thx again for you help with the bushings - sled is Tight!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,441 Posts
yeah i have the lift a sled snowmobile lift. uses a taller trailer type jack. i guess i could buy an electric one for mine. hmm never thought about that. lift helps a ton. never regretted buying it even if it can be kinda of large to store of not in use.
 

·
Registered
2015 Polaris Switchback 600 Pro S
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
Removed VES for cleaning and inspection. Removed the can to allow easier access into the right side VES as this side is the more difficult of the two due to the steering post. Turn steering post full lock to the right. Fully compress the guillotine so you gain the clearance you need to pull the VES assembly out of the cylinder.

After removal I used painter's tape to cover the openings to the cylinder to keep them clean.
2105475


VES immediately after removal. Note the orientation of the guillotine and vent hose port.
2105474


2105476

2105477


Next removed the cover to inspect the spring and the bellows / as well as complete the cleaning. Removal of the nut connected to the guillotine keeping bellows in place was a challenge as the guillotine will spin as you attempt to remove. I ended up clamping the guillotine with a soft face clamp to the bench so I could remove the nut.

2105478

2105479


Used brake cleaner and some elbow grease to remove carbon buildup off the guillotine assembly, simple green and water for the bellows. Inspection revealed smooth surfaces on the guillotine and the bellows and springs appeared to be in good shape.

2105480

2105481

2105482


Need to inspect the gas ports with a piston inspection light. Awaiting new gaskets and will be ready to reinstall.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,532 Posts
Nice job. I have several observations, more for other viewers than yourself, not criticism.

1. The orange red bellows material is pretty tough stuff (silicone rubber I believe) to stay flexible in the exhaust gases. Using Mean Green to clean them was a good choice to be kind to them, as opposed to using a hydrocarbon based cleaner.

2. Notice that everything threaded, has red loctite on it... Bellows nut, flanged head bolt fasteners. They can be difficult to remove, sometimes heat is necessary, a hot air gun is ideal. Make sure you have the correct sized wrench or socket. Polaris does recommend Loctite 242 for reassembly of the bellows nut and long housing bolts that go into the cylinder.

3. In your third picture, when you show how the guillotine valve is oriented in relation to the vent nipple, you can also see that the blade is offcenter of the shaft. I don't think you will be able to bolt it back into place, if it is not oriented corrrectly, along with metal VES base (vent nipple towards cylinder).

4. What tool did you use to clean the guillotine valve, besides brake cleaner. You were careful not to put scratches on it. Scotch brite pads? popsicle stick? Magic wand?
 

·
Registered
2015 Polaris Switchback 600 Pro S
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Thanks for the comments / they are in keeping with my goal to educate and continue my own learning through this process. I have an engineer friend - Scott - who has his own shop to work on sleds, motorcycles, small engines etc. I used a soft metal putty knife to remove the harder carbon deposits. I then used a brass bristle brush in his mineral spirit based solvent tool bath with filtered circulating pump. Lastly I used parts cleaner/brake cleaner on the guillotine metal assembly and gas ports - allowed to dry then applied a thin coat of polaris VES synthetic 2 stroke oil to the guillotine.

Some questions I have for you - do you have the torque number and loctite recommendation for the nut that connects the bellows to the guillotine / directly under the VES cover? Also, I could use some direction regarding the gas ports on the cylinder themselves and the cleaning where the guillotine inserts. The service manual says to use a clean shop towel to clean the cylinder VES bores - do you just insert and clean as best you can? Finally, in regards to the gas transfer port - the recommendation is to use compressed air or a drill bit. I am not confident enough to drill - so do I just give the port a shot of compressed air - will that do anything to clean the port. Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I used a drill bit(by hand) a bit smaller than the first inches of gass port, then you make sure the piston is all the way to the bottom and use a drill bit that is 0.075 or a lil smaller to go through the smaller port.
After pulling the drill bit I turned the motor with my hand so the piston pushes some air in the port(it's gonna push the dirt out of it).

For the guillotine bore I used a cotton cloth with some carb cleener on it that i pushed in with a popsicle stick and pulled several times.
 

·
Registered
2015 Polaris Switchback 600 Pro S
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Thanks for the help - will give it a go !
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,532 Posts
Thanks for the comments / they are in keeping with my goal to educate and continue my own learning through this process. I have an engineer friend - Scott - who has his own shop to work on sleds, motorcycles, small engines etc. I used a soft metal putty knife to remove the harder carbon deposits. I then used a brass bristle brush in his mineral spirit based solvent tool bath with filtered circulating pump. Lastly I used parts cleaner/brake cleaner on the guillotine metal assembly and gas ports - allowed to dry then applied a thin coat of polaris VES synthetic 2 stroke oil to the guillotine.

Some questions I have for you - do you have the torque number and loctite recommendation for the nut that connects the bellows to the guillotine / directly under the VES cover? Also, I could use some direction regarding the gas ports on the cylinder themselves and the cleaning where the guillotine inserts. The service manual says to use a clean shop towel to clean the cylinder VES bores - do you just insert and clean as best you can? Finally, in regards to the gas transfer port - the recommendation is to use compressed air or a drill bit. I am not confident enough to drill - so do I just give the port a shot of compressed air - will that do anything to clean the port. Thanks for the help.
Polaris does recommend Loctite 242 for reassembly of the bellows nut 20ft-lb. and long housing bolts 12ft-lb that go into the cylinder.
The short housing bolts are recommended 12ft-lb. also



I used a drill bit(by hand) a bit smaller than the first inches of gass port, then you make sure the piston is all the way to the bottom and use a drill bit that is 0.075 or a lil smaller to go through the smaller port.
After pulling the drill bit I turned the motor with my hand so the piston pushes some air in the port(it's gonna push the dirt out of it).

For the guillotine bore I used a cotton cloth with some carb cleaner on it that i pushed in with a popsicle stick and pulled several times.
The combustion pressure signal port coming out of the cylinder IS, a dual diameter hole. Larger diameter at the base of the VES, and the last little bit of it, where it actually goes into the cylinder wall, is much smaller diameter. Hand held/turned drill bit, with some carb cleaner should work good here. When done, I always send some two stroke oil, down the hole, to put some lubrication on the cylinder rings and skirt that have just been washed with carb. cleaner.

The port that goes from the gasket, up into the VES base, can be difficult to get clean, it takes a detour in the base, so I always use a piece of wire up from the bottom, into a chamber, and then another piece of wire, down from the bellows, to get both parts of the circuit.
I have seen them plugged, so the VES would not come off low port, at all. You might be able to verify flow with a small tip on a blow gun. Putting pressure in the brass nipple, should encourage air flow in both directions.
 

·
Registered
2015 Polaris Switchback 600 Pro S
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Thanks for the help - appreciate it!
 
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Top