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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My 2013 pro 800 idles very low. Did some research and lots of guys saying check the tps. Disconnected throttle cable and backed off idle adjustment screw. I supplied 12v to the ECM PWR connector.(orange and black wires) then tested the red/white wire and black wire on tps and got 5.05v. Which is in spec. Then tested the red/white wire and blue wire and got a crazy 4.295v which in spec is around .700v. Would this mean the TPS is toast? Why the high volts coming out?
 

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You will never get .700 unless you back off the idle screw. You should have around .940V at idle

I Copied this from Snowest:

Figured I would start a new post so all the info is in one place. This is the info for the guys that choose to do this on their own rather then taking it to the dealer and hoping they do it right.

Its likely gonna take ya an hour or two the first time you do it, there is a lot of stuff that needs to come off.

Remove side panels, hood, and dash, when removing the dash remove the 10mm screws from the ECU and leave the ECU in place and wiring hooked up. Then remove all the clips for the gas tank shroud, then lift up a couple inches and there is a single connector for the mode/select , hand warmers switch, its about 6" back from the switches. Then slide the shroud back from the steering post, pull the starter rope out a foot or 2 and then just lay that off to the side of the sled. Next remove the seat buy taking off the 4 10mm nuts on the seat mount, lifting it up off the studs and then slide straight back. Next is the fuel tank, remove the 2 10mm nuts at the back of the tank, unhook the wiring coming off the fuel pump, its a single connector about 6" in front of the tank. Remove 1 10mm screw on the left front of the tank, its up under the over structure right in front of the white tank vent (no hose on it is normal). Then carefully slide back the safety clips on the fuel lines, no tools require, just use your finger, release each side of the clip then slide back about a 1/8", then carefully pull the fuel lines straight up. A very small amount of fuel will leak out. Now lift the rear of the tank off the studs and slide tank back and remove from sled. Now you need to loosen the clamps on the air box going to the throttle bodies. It helps if you remove the belt and secondary clutch, but can be done with out removing the clutch. After loosening the hose clamps (1/4" socket) you can pull the air box back about 3/4" to get it free from the throttle bodies. Now you will be able to see the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen, 8mm jam nut) by slightly lifting up the air box and look between the bottom of the air box and the jack shaft. Its between the throttle bodies, closer to the PTO side. Now you need to unhook the throttle cable from the flipper, just go WOT and hold the cable with your other hand and you can push the cable out of the flipper. Next you need to go back to the adjusting screw, loosen the jam nut and then back it off 2-3 turns and make sure the screw is no longer touching the cam on the throttle shaft.
Now your ready to check your TPS settings :)
Next step is to provide 12volts to the ECU connector in front of the clutch cover near the upper shock mount. Apply B+ to the orange wire and ground to the black/blue wire. Now hook up a GOOD quality volt meter to the TPS connector, its in the bag right above the PTO spark plug. Its 3 wires, triangle connector, Black, Blue, Yellow. Leave the connector plugged in and carefully back probe the terminal between the wire and weather pack seal. If you dont have a back probe, use a very thin gauge paper clip unfolded. Put your black volt meter lead to ground, I use the chassis bolt with ground wires attached to it near the ECU connector you powered up. Put the red lead to the Yellow wire on the TPS connector and make sure you have 5.00-5.01 volts. If thats good, now move your back probe to the blue wire on the TPS connector. You should have something in the .690-.712 volt range, thats the spec for your BASE setting. Set this reading to exactly .700 , this is done by loosening the 2 screws on the TPS sensor which is on the MAG side throttle body. This is a very touchy adjustment and your reading will likely change slightly when you tighten the screws back up, you need to compensate for this change when adjusting, it needs to be .700 when tight. Double check the adjusting screw is NOT touching then cam on the throttle shaft, use a mirror if needed. Now that your BASE setting is correct you need to set the IDLE setting. This is done by turning the adjusting screw (2.5mm allen) back in, slowly turn that in until your voltage reading is .940 then tighten the 8mm jam nut while holding the 2.5mm screw. Your reading is going to increase and once again you need to compensate for this and make sure your at .940 when the jam nut is tight. Thats it, your DONE! Now you just need to put everything back together. Make sure the air box slides back onto the throttle bodies correclty, use a mirror if there is any doubt.
Hope that helps. Eric
 

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I had similar issues. I have the Check tech diagnostics and my TPS was at 0.910. I set it to 0.935 ish it was a bit better but idle was rough 1600 to 2000. Then cleaned out the power valve notice the VES gasket was broke were the small 2mm hole is. Cleaned the VES and switch to Prem 91 only. Woke her right up. I also had the WOT bog without any codes and no fault in history ether. Just sharing my experience.:buttrock:
 

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Guys about 2 weeks after I resolved the WOB issue I got a DET code. Plugged it on the scanner tool and had PTO max detonation. Before jumping in the electronics I checked around for anything mechanical/gas related. I decided to pull the pipe out to make sure the pistons were ok and saw a crack on the underside of the PTO y pipe. Welded it and code never came back. Hopefully it helps someone out there.
 
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