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2013 polaris switchback assault 800
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Okay I'm trying to figure out why my snowmobile is bogging sometimes low-end but has happened in the mid range too I've tried just about everything: checked the TPS sensor,it has brand new v force reeds in it I cleaned the power valves thoroughly tried riding it with the stock cann sprayed the whole motor down with eather new fuel pump and fuel line/filter running 91 and its set for 91 non rebuilt the primary clutch checked 2ndary new exhaust donut adjusted the belt deflection motors got great compression I tried swaping coils and the primary clutch from my brothers sled and it still did it so I don't know. the sled has a ggb mountain can and a BIKEMAN engine durability kit the motors been completely rebuilt new monoblock, pistons rings crankshaft seals both sides all new gaskets orings everything s torqued to spec it's been bogging since it was rebuilt Idk maibe injectors throttle safety switch? ive done just about everthing I can think of and its still bogging anyone have any suggestions new ideas maibe something I overlooked I'm starting to think something electrical or maibe I need the ecm remaped
 

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2013 polaris switchback assault 800
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is it a bog when you hit full throttle? Do you have the stock can?
I pin it then let off and pin it again and it'll cut out I tried putting the stock can back on and it'll still do it with the stock can
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Maibe it needs more weight on the clutch weights Idk could probably use a new clutch spring it's not broken but it's got close to 4k on the weights and springs I just replaced the bushings and black button things
 

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You wouldnt want more weight. I had a bog on full throttle that was due to my belt defection being too loose.

Have you taken apart the secondary clutch at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You wouldnt want more weight. I had a bog on full throttle that was due to my belt defection being too loose.

Have you taken apart the secondary clutch at all?
Yes took the 2ndary clutch apart looks good.
belt deflection is good
 

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Okay I'm trying to figure out why my snowmobile is bogging sometimes low-end but has happened in the mid range too I've tried just about everything: checked the TPS sensor,it has brand new v force reeds in it I cleaned the power valves thoroughly tried riding it with the stock cann sprayed the whole motor down with eather new fuel pump and fuel line/filter running 91 and its set for 91 non rebuilt the primary clutch checked 2ndary new exhaust donut adjusted the belt deflection motors got great compression I tried swaping coils and the primary clutch from my brothers sled and it still did it so I don't know. the sled has a ggb mountain can and a BIKEMAN engine durability kit the motors been completely rebuilt new monoblock, pistons rings crankshaft seals both sides all new gaskets orings everything s torqued to spec it's been bogging since it was rebuilt Idk maibe injectors throttle safety switch? ive done just about everthing I can think of and its still bogging anyone have any suggestions new ideas maibe something I overlooked I'm starting to think something electrical or maibe I need the ecm remaped
You need to give it more fuel, 13's are lean as it is in certain areas of the fuel map, added case volume with BMP kit, most likely lower back pressure with a can aren't helping...
 

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Gsi is correct about the case volume.

Knowing that you should check your reeds. When the piston comes down that helps push air into the cylinder. Only because the reeds stop the air from going through the throttle body's. If they are broken. Your not pushing all that air into the cylinder. Some would be going the wrong way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Gsi is correct about the case volume.

Knowing that you should check your reeds. When the piston comes down that helps push air into the cylinder. Only because the reeds stop the air from going through the throttle body's. If they are broken. Your not pushing all that air into the cylinder. Some would be going the wrong way.
Brand new v force 3 reeds like maibe 5 or 10 miles on sled since they were installed
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Brand new v force 3 reeds like maibe 5 or 10 miles on sled since they were installed
The old ones had chips missing witch is what I thought was causing the problem but I put the v force in and it still cutting out
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I need a piggy back fuel controller or have the ecm remaped? You think
 

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You need to give it more fuel, 13's are lean as it is in certain areas of the fuel map, added case volume with BMP kit, most likely lower back pressure with a can aren't helping...
This. I would personally call BMP and get their recommendations on fuel map changes. I’m sure they have some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well I talked to them today and there suggestion was more clutch weight or a piggy back system they dont do custom mapping on anything before 2013 is what the guy at bikeman said
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I talked to them today and there suggestion was more clutch weight or a piggy back system they dont do custom mapping on anything before 2013 is what the guy at bikeman said
Sorry I meant 2015 anything before 15
 

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Okay I'm trying to figure out why my snowmobile is bogging sometimes low-end but has happened in the mid range too I've tried just about everything: checked the TPS sensor,it has brand new v force reeds in it I cleaned the power valves thoroughly tried riding it with the stock cann sprayed the whole motor down with eather new fuel pump and fuel line/filter running 91 and its set for 91 non rebuilt the primary clutch checked 2ndary new exhaust donut adjusted the belt deflection motors got great compression I tried swaping coils and the primary clutch from my brothers sled and it still did it so I don't know. the sled has a ggb mountain can and a BIKEMAN engine durability kit the motors been completely rebuilt new monoblock, pistons rings crankshaft seals both sides all new gaskets orings everything s torqued to spec it's been bogging since it was rebuilt Idk maibe injectors throttle safety switch? ive done just about everthing I can think of and its still bogging anyone have any suggestions new ideas maibe something I overlooked I'm starting to think something electrical or maibe I need the ecm remaped
What does it idle at? What is your peak RPM? What is engine temps while running? Have you verified the TPS is set correctly? Is there any codes active on the display? Do you get a DET warning when it happens? I have fuel maps from Bikeman if need be. I just rebuilt a 12 800CFI, it runs like a top. Did you have your injectors flow tested while the engine was apart?
 

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Make sure your throttle safety switch(throttle lever freeplay) is within spec.They are real sensitive to adjustment and they will bog especially if its too tight.Also make sure the throttle cable is installed correctly and not getting bent or binding on anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What does it idle at? What is your peak RPM? What is engine temps while running? Have you verified the TPS is set correctly? Is there any codes active on the display? Do you get a DET warning when it happens? I have fuel maps from Bikeman if need be. I just rebuilt a 12 800CFI, it runs like a top. Did you have your injectors flow tested while the engine was apart?
Eng temps usually 123 to 128 normally
tps is set .702 and .945
Doesnt throw any codes or detonation code
Have not had the injectors flow tested
Honestly don't really know what it's idling at I usually dont pay that close attention to the. Idle but it idles fine not to low not to high BASED ON THE SOUND but I can check that tomarrow
 

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As mentioned above. Grab a peak rpm reading as it cuts out or just before. Adding weight to cure the problem would mean it has to be banging off the rev limiter. Does it go back to normal if you just ease off the throttle a lil bit and bring the rpm down just a touch ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
As mentioned above. Grab a peak rpm reading as it cuts out or just before. Adding weight to cure the problem would mean it has to be banging off the rev limiter. Does it go back to normal if you just ease off the throttle a lil bit and bring the rpm down just a touch ?
I dont think its hitting the rev limiter and its hard to get a read on the rpms cause it happens and then is gone to quick and I've had it happen at high middle and low end its very inconsistent usually if it happens it's when I go to punch it and it falls on its face.
it seems better when my brother rides it he's alot lighter than I am. I'm 300 + so when it's under a heavy load and hooking up good it's worse I think
 
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