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Discussion Starter #1
Sled has been sitting 5 or more years. Has 1100 km on it. Fuel system was rotten replaced everything in the tank including sending unit. Replaced fuel filter and cleaned lines and injectors. Sled has spark if I pour fuel in plug holes it will start and run. Problem is fuel system isn't turning on. Been reading up a lot on this sled but can't seem to find my problem.

On electrical side I've tested the capacitor it's taking a charge to 12.8 volts after 10 seconds attached to battery. When I hook my tester up to it it's dropping .1 volt every 2 or 3 seconds.

Tested stator reading .3 ohm across the board on yellow wires. No continuity to ground.

Trying to find test for regulator and ecm but no luck.

I've also replaced the relay with a known good 1. Unplugged warmers and kill switch and key.


Any help is greatly appreciated
 

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did you power up the fuel pump and see what the psi is ?
 

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does it run and stay running when you keep the pump powered up
 

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i don't think so.you'd think after 490,000 pull starts of mine i'd notice...lol....which means, it starts then lights up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Closest sled I've owned to this is a mach z 1000. A nightmare in its own rights. The gauge and pump come on right away and you here the pump kick on. This does nothing. I'm going try it with a battery run to the pump now
 

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So I tried to start with the pump on a battery..... No go. Seems like nothing is turning on except my coil packs. While digging around I noticed that if I charge the capacitor and plug it in it dies within seconds. So I started testing wires. That lead me to the light circuit. Unplugged bulbs and no more short to ground which makes sense. Plugged everything back in and gave it a try still nothing. So now I'm wondering if my capacitor is shot. Could it be losing its charge so fast that it cant power up the sled?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Forgot to mention. With lights all plugged in the capacitor drain was pretty much instant. With lights unplugged it drains in maybe 10 to 15 seconds
 

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Capacitor or ecm. If you have spark and good fuel pressure, it should fire up. But if the capacitor isn’t charged enough to fire off the injectors so they spray fuel or the ecm isn’t firing them off. Considering the capacitor is the cheapest, I’d replace that first.
 

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I have a 2006 700 fusion and posted the blurb below in another thread but wonder after reading this if I should check my capacitor maybe?.......

"had some sylvania LED tail lights in my sled (3157SL.BP2 SYL LED). One was burnt out so installed 2 Sylvania Zevo LED 3157 lamps. Had seat off, fired up sled 1 pull and fired. Put seat back on, fired up sled, worked fine. While running, turned brake lock on so I could look back and see lights and it was fine, seemed it was around that time I heard a pop or something like a backfire and then sled died. I could not get it to turn over again. Pulled plugs and I have spark. Pulled seat off and unplugged tail lights (which have adapter from Bluhm enterprises). Pulled brake/left controls off and tried safety switch behind brake and it was working when checked for continuity. Plugs look wet when I pulled them, even primed pump with 12V battery and that sounds normal. I am at a loss. So much for riding that tomorrow. Any ideas??"
 

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How is:
1. Compression?
2. Grounds (ground wire against bulkhead in front of/above left foot well)?
If you check capacitor (easy test - apply 12 volts, remove 12 volts and read with voltmeter - voltage should drop slowly. Do you recall voltage indicator on MFD? a bad capacitor will show a low voltage) you can also check stator while you are in there (easy ohm tests but only confirm no issue not necessarily that it works).
3. Have you ever checked the inner sheath on the flywheel - they tend to separate and cut stator wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well it's not the capacitor. Put a new one in it and nothing. I know there are no shorts I've gone through the wiring. So I looked at the stator again....... this time I started moving the wires around while testing and boom all my yellow wires are 0 ohms. So now I need a stator lmao.
 

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How is:
1. Compression?
2. Grounds (ground wire against bulkhead in front of/above left foot well)?
If you check capacitor (easy test - apply 12 volts, remove 12 volts and read with voltmeter - voltage should drop slowly. Do you recall voltage indicator on MFD? a bad capacitor will show a low voltage) you can also check stator while you are in there (easy ohm tests but only confirm no issue not necessarily that it works).
3. Have you ever checked the inner sheath on the flywheel - they tend to separate and cut stator wires.

Do you test the capacitor with wires still attached or pull them off, then put 12 volt on it and check discharge? Also, could I keep 12 volts on and try to start sled or is that bad for it?

Another question.... How hard of a job is it to get at stator or the inner sheath on flywheel to test? Is there somewhere that shows a layout where the stator/flywheel and other stuff is in relation to whole sled? I realize I can pull up the parts schematics on babbits or similar sites but would be nice to see photo of engine with arrows, etc. I think I know where the stuff is but would be nice to double check. Appreciate it.
 

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Do you test the capacitor with wires still attached or pull them off, then put 12 volt on it and check discharge? Also, could I keep 12 volts on and try to start sled or is that bad for it?

Another question.... How hard of a job is it to get at stator or the inner sheath on flywheel to test? Is there somewhere that shows a layout where the stator/flywheel and other stuff is in relation to whole sled? I realize I can pull up the parts schematics on babbits or similar sites but would be nice to see photo of engine with arrows, etc. I think I know where the stuff is but would be nice to double check. Appreciate it.


Gotta pull the recoil off. The flywheel and then stator (after the flywheel is pulled off the crank) are accessible.
 

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Well it's not the capacitor. Put a new one in it and nothing. I know there are no shorts I've gone through the wiring. So I looked at the stator again....... this time I started moving the wires around while testing and boom all my yellow wires are 0 ohms. So now I need a stator lmao.
Previously you indicated a quick discharge when tested - is this fixed with the new one?
 
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