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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am looking at buying a 2003 sks 700 with 4300mi on it for 4700 Canadian. I was wondering if 4300mi is lots for one of those sledsand what should i look at when i am going to buy it. what is the top speed and how good are they in deep snow.
 

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That's not a lot of miles for any Polaris 700 although it is plenty of miles if it hasn't been maintained well.

Valve cleaning/quality oil/clutch maintenance/storage method/fogging/greasing/etc are what makes the difference.

They are a great sled. Awesome in deep snow, great handling trail sled and decent top speed but slightly slower than a 121 of the same size.

That's an average price for that sled if it's in good condition considering the miles.
If it had any significant parts to replace then the price should be lower....
Track/clutches/skis/cab/seat or anything worth a couple hundred bucks or more.

My 03 SKS700 has 1800 miles, reverse and is in mint condition.
$5000 will buy it, it's for sale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it has always been mantained and not driven hard. its my friends dads and he only drives it maybe 2 times a month becuase he is always trucking. do u think it would be able to keep up or beat a 1999 mxz 600?
 

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That's not a lot of miles for any Polaris 700 although it is plenty of miles if it hasn't been maintained well.

Valve cleaning/quality oil/clutch maintenance/storage method/fogging/greasing/etc are what makes the difference.

They are a great sled. Awesome in deep snow, great handling trail sled and decent top speed but slightly slower than a 121 of the same size.

That's an average price for that sled if it's in good condition considering the miles.
If it had any significant parts to replace then the price should be lower....
Track/clutches/skis/cab/seat or anything worth a couple hundred bucks or more.

My 03 SKS700 has 1800 miles, reverse and is in mint condition.
$5000 will buy it, it's for sale.[/b]
Spot on!!!!!!
Suggest to purchase this excellent 03 SKS with only 1800 miles, engine just broke in good, $5000 CD good price!!!
One can always buy junk cheap!!!!
 

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It will spank the 600, once you do a couple clutch changes, and jetting. Make sure it has had the CDI update done. Jet the mains down 2 sizes from stock, almond/blue primary spring, 10-64, silver/blue secondary #2, and a hot seat HSP36X helix, or the dalton PR52/42-36. You could also gear down a bit to 23/40.
 

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it has always been mantained and not driven hard. its my friends dads and he only drives it maybe 2 times a month becuase he is always trucking. do u think it would be able to keep up or beat a 1999 mxz 600?[/b]
A stock set up 03 SKS will most likely be slower then a well set up 1999 600 MXZ???

Terez knows what he is doing & most likely already has his SKS set up very good!!!

But a well set up stock 03 SKS 700 will be faster then most stock set up 800cc Polaris XC or Rev 800cc. A stock 03 SKS 700 would need to be jetted down to 430 to 420 main jets, at 1500 ft elevation. Install 64 gram weights in primary clutch & install a HSP 50x38X helix in the secondary clutch, 7900 max RPM or loose HP big time.
Do not install a slow Team secondary clutch!!!

My old 03 heavy mod SKS 700 with a Holzman carb temp compensator was the Best & Fastest sled that I have owned. Tracks straight on the trails, not darty like my short 121” 07 Dragon with cheap 3” single ski carbide runners. The Dragon should be faster??? and better then by 03 SKS 700 after break in, dual carbides & set up properly???

When my SKS was stock and the $15 TPS was bad it was a 90-MPH PooDog, over jetted & poorly clutched.

Do not mod any sled unless there is an Excellent local performance shop!!!!
The 03 SKS 700 is now Very fast after mods 115+ MPH per happy meter, LRM pipe, SLP can, HSP heads, VF3’s, Fret brothers reed spacers, SLP high flow air box, FlowRights & etc

Engine compression is still 140 psi with HSP heads after 4000+ miles with original pistons & rings, very reliable sled mod or stock!!! But I did remove the thermostat (must warm up slowly!!!), added Red Line Water Wetter. Also install an old 1996 Polaris left side running board heat exchanger to eliminate a hot running engine on bare hard packed trails.
Good Luck; Rich
 

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You guys sound very knowledgeable, maybe you can give me a hand figuring out why my sled is running crappy. By the way I just dropped it off at the shop but would like to hear your opinions to what could wrong. I'm not very familiar with clutching/jetting, so any tech talk will just confuse me. Here's the issues:
1. If I leave it outside and temps are anywhere from -10 to 0, it won't idle after starting (ATACC installed) Once I do get it doing, it runs like its getting to much gas. In fact I have to stop and dry the plugs, then it will clear up and run fine.

2. It doesn't backshift like I think it should, it doesn't rip your arms off like I want it to. It hits just above 8200 RPMs but only tops out at about 95 mph and takes some distance to get there. As far as I know it hasn't been geared down or anything although It had been upgraded to the 2004 Team Secondary. The only other aftermarket part on the engine, as far as the previous owner stated, was the Tempaflow, which I had replaced with a ATACC (I ride both trail and mountains).

3. When riding in deep snow it runs fine carving left, but when I put it on it's rightside it bogs and won't accelerate. In fact I got stuck almost everytime I went right; felt like I was in Nascar. I thought it was snow in the carbs or filters but after trying it several times in both directions, it only acted like this when leaning hard to the right.

Well that's about it but it's embarrasing when you're leading the ride and can't get your sled to run right, especially in front of CATS. Any help/wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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I know holtzman sells a one way valve to prevent gas from entering the tube on the top of the carb and altering the attac settings-possible? I have also heard numerous comments on how POOR the team is compared to the 03 secondary-the post above yours mentions it again-
 

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You guys sound very knowledgeable, maybe you can give me a hand figuring out why my sled is running crappy. By the way I just dropped it off at the shop but would like to hear your opinions to what could wrong. I'm not very familiar with clutching/jetting, so any tech talk will just confuse me. Here's the issues:
1. If I leave it outside and temps are anywhere from -10 to 0, it won't idle after starting (ATACC installed) Once I do get it doing, it runs like its getting to much gas. In fact I have to stop and dry the plugs, then it will clear up and run fine.

2. It doesn't backshift like I think it should, it doesn't rip your arms off like I want it to. It hits just above 8200 RPMs but only tops out at about 95 mph and takes some distance to get there. As far as I know it hasn't been geared down or anything although It had been upgraded to the 2004 Team Secondary. The only other aftermarket part on the engine, as far as the previous owner stated, was the Tempaflow, which I had replaced with a ATACC (I ride both trail and mountains).

3. When riding in deep snow it runs fine carving left, but when I put it on it's rightside it bogs and won't accelerate. In fact I got stuck almost everytime I went right; felt like I was in Nascar. I thought it was snow in the carbs or filters but after trying it several times in both directions, it only acted like this when leaning hard to the right.

Well that's about it but it's embarrasing when you're leading the ride and can't get your sled to run right, especially in front of CATS. Any help/wisdom would be appreciated. Thanks[/b]
Remove the ATACC and jet 430 main on clutch side & 420 main on mag side. Correct one problem at a time.
Suggest a Holtzman carb temp compensator I know of 5 Poo sleds that run excellent with one, then adjust for leaner at higher elivation.
Read plugs after high speed run, burn line must not be beyond the start of the bend radius of ground electrodes, max lean!!!

Most likely your Team secondary clutch is not allowing full top end shift out, just like my Team that I installed a tooooo steep of an helix 70-46-46. Team is an excellent clutch if you know what helix to install, per Dave Whal & also SLP!

Mark your primary clutch with a black marker to see if you are getting full shift out to top of clutch, most likely not!!!!!!!!!!

As I stated above:
A stock 03 SKS 700 would need to be jetted down to 430 to 420 main jets, at 1500 ft elevation. Install HSP 64 gram weights in primary clutch & install a HSP 50x38X ( HSP 50x36X for a weak 700 or strong 600 Poo) helix in the secondary clutch, 7900 max RPM or loose HP big time.
Do not install a "SLOW" Team secondary clutch, unless you know what $110 helix to buy!!!
My mod 03 SKS 700 with a Team was only a 95 MPG PooDog, with Polaris button secondary 115+ MPH on happy meter!!!!!!!!
Good Luck; Rich
 

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I would suggest to check the hose lengths of the ATACC install, and the placement of the unit in relation to the carb openings. Set the fuel and air screws to stock specs, as shown in the owners manual supplement. 420 main jets, needle middle clip. Set the idle to 15-1700 rpm warm engine, and be sure that the choke is not staying on, you want 1/8" freeplay at the lever. For your team secondary depending on the helix, you need a black or red/dk. blue spring. Also run 3 delrin washers. One on each end of the spring, and one under the large spring cup in the sheave. The spring must be LH wound as well. 10-64 weights, and an almond/blue primary spring. The bog when carving on the right is the exhaust outlet being blocked. Make sure it has the snow deflector installed, if it doesn't put one on. It is a metal shield on the belly pan in front of the exhaust outlet. Also silicone the rubber donut in the pan where the muffler exits, there must not be any holes for exhaust to come into the underhood area.
 

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Thanks everyone for the suggestions. My mechanic found the carbs lose and took them apart and cleaned everything. This is my first carb machine as I only owned an AC EFI machine before, so he showed me how to properly warm it up and where the fuel cut-off is when I trailer it so it doesn't get flooded. Hopefully that cures the cold start issues I had. I haven't been able to test the cold start as temps here in the interior of Alaska have been above zero for most of the month (normally -30 avg high), so hopefully that cures that issue. He also went through the clutches and replaced both the primary and secondary springs. He set it to run up in the mountains, so it really backshifts now. Top end remained around 90 mph, but he asked what I wanted it to do run fast across a lake or not get stuck, so I opted for not getting stuck. The exhaust deflector is installed but there is areas that are open around the outlet; is there a kit that I can install to cover the open areas? Anyway awesome responses and I appreciate the help.
 

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You could also gear down a bit to 23/40.[/b]
Pockets, I just geared my 03 700 SKS to this. I have not run it yet, but here is my question. The stock 74p chain would not fit. So I used a 76p chain meant for a 2006 600 SB. The chaincase is a mechanical reverse case (pain). The 76p chain has a huge dog leg, about a quarter of an inch from the top small reverse gear. It does not touch, but I was concerned about the dog leg. Since there is nothing in the middle, I assumed it was the best I could get. Correct or not? Thanks in advance.
 

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23/40 will fit with the stock 74P chain.
It is very tight and may not go with a new chain or sled.
If the chain is new and or the sled is new you can remove a kiss from the back of the tensioner arm and it will go on.

You won't like the chaincase noise and or the inefficient dogleg using the 76P chain.

23/40 is a great ratio for trail riding the SKS/Switchback.
Great performance/cool clutches and belt temps.
I ran it last year, this year I geared down to 22/40. Wicked accelaration and midrange rollon and great for offtrail playing.
Did hurt trail mpg and a few mph from top speed though.

PS....Yes maniacal reverse is a F%^*#! pain in the ass to work on! ( maniacal not a typo!)
If the chaincase noise from the doglegged 76p setup doesn't drive you squirelly you may want to leave er as is!
 

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Terez - Good point, I should have just shaved the tensioner a bit, since the chain almost fit. The chain has over two thousand miles on it, so it isn't exactly new, that was why I guess I did not think of still using it if I had to make too many other adjustments. And yes the 76p will have to do since I am not tearing that "maniacal" reverse box apart again. If I get a chance I will post a picture of the dog leg in the chain that I took before I put it back together. Thanks.
 

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I took it out this past weekend in some fairly deep snow on one our local lakes and no problems at all with it stalling. In fact I was doing some 180 degree turns to the right and fell off and it kept running on it's side with no problems , so I guess it was a carb issue. My mechanic did say he though it was a float issue and I guess he was right. I also installed SLP flowrites and they rock. So it's off to the mountains on Friday and possibly Sunday as well. Now it's time for that 2" track upgrade that I've been wanting to do.
 

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i am looking at buying a 2003 sks 700 with 4300mi on it for 4700 Canadian. I was wondering if 4300mi is lots for one of those sledsand what should i look at when i am going to buy it. what is the top speed and how good are they in deep snow.[/b]



did u find that one on the autotrader?? the one with a silver windsheild?
 

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A friend of mine has the 03 800 SKS. I rode it a bit last week, and what a nice ride. Handled great on the trail, "no pushing" in the corners like i've heard from some Switchback owners. And followed me in the deep stuff with no problem. The only suggestion I had for him is to go to a 1.5" or 1.75" lug track and it would be mint. If I could find one with limited miles, and a good price, I would definitely consider buying it. This if from a loyal Ski-Doo guy.
 
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