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You know when I pulled it out of storage one of the needle was stuck and filled crank with fuel. I did try to start but it never really fired or back fired cause I seen gas coming out of y pipe and knew what was up and went to the carbs. Well maybe I just head to the bench with the motor and start at ground zero. Damn Really dont feel that's it but never know till ya go there. T Y for advise.
If the crankcase filled with fun,l and you attempted to start it...good chance you good either bent a rod, or the crank went out. Should of immediately stopped and pulled the plugs as soon as any unusual resistance was felt, especially a motor with a hydraulic lock. I'll aways make sure the fuel petcock is in off mode when storing the sled or even overnight for that matter. Good to pull the plugs after storage just to loosen up the motor before attempting to start it anyways....its what i do after breaking recoil ropes.
 

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Crank degree quick check should only take 5 minutes. One piston at TDC the other at BDC using a simple screw driver placed in the spark plug holes. No need for a degree wheel, etc.
For some strange reason i never had much success with that method. Had thought i had a bad crank in my indy 500 twin at one time and used that method to check it...it confirmed my suspicion but when i pulled the crank and took it to our engine guy to double check and have fixed it was ok. I had new bearings put on anyways. Turned out to be a combination of little things that i thought were nothing amounted to one big problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
It never hydroliced when it happened to me. I started it in the trailer and rode to the garage. Next day I went out to start and pulled a few times and noticed fuel dripping out of y pipe. Fuel was shut off while sitting in the garage before restart. I never hydroliced the motor so I feel the bent crank etc theory is out the door but I am going to check to eliminate the possibility. Ty for the input.
For some strange reason i never had much success with that method. Had thought i had a bad crank in my indy 500 twin at one time and used that method to check it...it confirmed my suspicion but when i pulled the crank and took it to our engine guy to double check and have fixed it was ok. I had new bearings put on anyways. Turned out to be a combination of little things that i thought were nothing amounted to one big problem.
Yaa that's what my heart tells me. Ignition
 

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It never hydroliced when it happened to me. I started it in the trailer and rode to the garage. Next day I went out to start and pulled a few times and noticed fuel dripping out of y pipe. Fuel was shut off while sitting in the garage before restart. I never hydroliced the motor so I feel the bent crank etc theory is out the door but I am going to check to eliminate the possibility. Ty for the input.

Yaa that's what my heart tells me. Ignition
Its very possible it could be a faulty stator although very rare for the 600. When the crank is out of phase i've seen the same thing. Just another note, have you replaced the needle/seat assembly o-rings. When they get old and leaky the sled will run rich. Arctic cat sells them separately if their needed. Can't get them from polaris.
 

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For some strange reason i never had much success with that method. Had thought i had a bad crank in my indy 500 twin at one time and used that method to check it...it confirmed my suspicion but when i pulled the crank and took it to our engine guy to double check and have fixed it was ok. I had new bearings put on anyways. Turned out to be a combination of little things that i thought were nothing amounted to one big problem.
That 500 crank was problematic right from Polaris. Ray Hitchcock told me he did hundreds of them for Polaris directly. This was while I was there having him fix the out of index crank from my 89 650. It too was bad from brand new. Always had a vibration at idle. No misfire at idle. These engines came from Fuji of Japan. The famous quality of Japanese products wasn't that great in those applications. I've seen similar issue with German products built for the US markets. Makes one wonder if it's payback for defeating them in WWII.
 

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Its very possible it could be a faulty stator although very rare for the 600. When the crank is out of phase i've seen the same thing. Just another note, have you replaced the needle/seat assembly o-rings. When they get old and leaky the sled will run rich. Arctic cat sells them separately if their needed. Can't get them from polaris.
Good idea. OP said he had fuel leaking into crankcase when sitting. These engines fire the plugs twice per revolution per plug. If partially fouled from being too rich, it will fire on the exhaust stroke rather than on the compression stroke and cause popping/backfiring in the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Its very possible it could be a faulty stator although very rare for the 600. When the crank is out of phase i've seen the same thing. Just another note, have you replaced the needle/seat assembly o-rings. When they get old and leaky the sled will run rich. Arctic cat sells them separately if their needed. Can't get them from polaris.
I dont feel the engine is out of phase but I am going to check it before I do anything else. Thanks for the advice
 

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That 500 crank was problematic right from Polaris. Ray Hitchcock told me he did hundreds of them for Polaris directly. This was while I was there having him fix the out of index crank from my 89 650. It too was bad from brand new. Always had a vibration at idle. No misfire at idle. These engines came from Fuji of Japan. The famous quality of Japanese products wasn't that great in those applications. I've seen similar issue with German products built for the US markets. Makes one wonder if it's payback for defeating them in WWII.
Yeah, i've know about those fuji 500's especially certain years. Ray did the crank on one of my 500 fuji twins, and a 600 xcr mono block triple. He did a truck load of cranks for us back in the 90's. I use to oval race those 500 indys...the motors were junk if pushed hard.
 

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Yeah, i've know about those fuji 500's especially certain years. Ray did the crank on one of my 500 fuji twins, and a 600 xcr mono block triple. He did a truck load of cranks for us back in the 90's. I use to oval race those 500 indys...the motors were junk if pushed hard.
On the other hand, Ray raved about the strength of the Polaris Storm cranks. The XCR 600, 700, 800 triple triple cranks seem very strong as well.
 

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On the other hand, Ray raved about the strength of the Polaris Storm cranks. The XCR 600, 700, 800 triple triple cranks seem very strong as well.
X2 on the storm cranks. I teamed up with a buddy that had a 93 750 stocker. We ran 660' ice drags that year with it, sled was undefeated. Next to my 00 600 ves that sled was a joy to run. Our guys had 800 storms, and xcr sp 600 triples, never had a crank issue either....although whoever factory jetted, and clutched them much of came from another planet.
 

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crank phase has to be checked with a degree wheel bolted to the flywheel. and a dial indicator. bring it TDC mag cylinder. use a strong piece of wire and one of the recoil bolts with a washer. fasten a pointer to point to 0 on the degree wheel. remove the dial indicator and put it in the pto cylinder. bring it to TDC it should be 180 degrees apart from the mag? 2-3 degrees out will make it not run right. that will never be picked up with screw drivers and measuring a cast alum. drive clutch. first thing every sled we purchase is the check crank phase. i've had to pull more then one brand new motor down true the crank.
 

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I disagree about not using the OD of the clutch as a way to measure crank phase. I've done it successfully numerous times. Each degree on a 8" clutch circumference is 8 x 3.1416" divided by 360 degrees. That's approx .070". 1/16" is .0625". 2-3 degrees out would be .140-.210". This is easy to see. Remember, this is just a quick check to determine whether the crank needs removal and re-indexing. To be even more accurate, you fashion a positive piston stop out of an old spark plug. Remove the guts, then insert a bolt and nut so it contacts the piston at part way down the bore. Then fashion a pointer attached to the engine and pointing to a spot on the clutch OD. Rotate engine by hand till piston contacts stop. Mark the OD of the clutch in line with pointer. Then rotate crank backwards till the piston hits the stop again. Make another mark on clutch. Halfway between those two marks is TDC. Mark the clutch at that point. Now do the same on the other piston. With two TDC marks now on the clutch, they must be exactly the same distance apart in both directions.This is very accurate.
 

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That is if the clutch outer surface itself is perfect. Had a 400 clutch off an 87 indy that wasn't. Thought the crank was bad, instead it was the clutch.
 
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