Hey, Im having the same problem with my 2000 zl600 efi. It is intermittant and is driving me nuts! I tried disconnecting the throttle safety switch and that didnt help. Loose or broken wire somewhere or bad ground? Anyone have any idea on this one?

 

i am also having the same problem on a 2003 zl 600 efi with the same milage. Did you ever figure out what it was?

 

i am also having the same problem on a 2003 zl 600 efi with the same milage. Did you ever figure out what it was?[/b]

my 2002 zr 600 cc 394 miles is doing the same thing, run good for the frist rip let off and bogs past 50 , i got a new ecu and did not help and air senser to , no bad grounds nothing let me know when you find out what it is

 

I have had the same issues with my 02 ZL 600 EFI. I bought it new and the 1st year it never did it, but from the 2nd year on it has shown me the same symptoms that are being mentioned.

The sled will pull hard from a dead stop and tach out around 8000 rpm's, but after a bit will go back to 7000 rpm's. On a longer pull will back down to around 7000 rpm's too. Also if you are going along around 50 mph and try to go faster it acts like it is starving for fuel.

I have taken the smart valves off in the fule tank pick-ups and cleaned them and I do my powervalves every year. I never have checked the fuel pressure, but wonder about that.

I think I am going to check the stator this summer and get a rebuilt one if I have to. I spoke to someone about a new stator and they said if the stator gets weak it can also affect the fuel pressure on EFI models.

 

same thing with my 99zr 600 guys.looks like we're all in the same boat.what sucks is it doesnt happen for about a half hour into your ride.im leaning towards stator.i wonder if that can be checked without removing it?

 

Yes it can be checked by just unplugging the harness to it and using a multimeter. I just replaced mine on my '98 with 4500 miles. It tested fine when cold and then once it was warm it tested bad.

Rob

 

Did anyone check their plugs. mine are white after i get the bogging, thats how lean it is getting could a bad stator cause this

 

Did anyone check their plugs. mine are white after i get the bogging, thats how lean it is getting could a bad stator cause this[/b]

Yes I've read on here that at least one guy lost a piston because of a bad stator.

Rob

 

I had the same problem as the original writer and it turned out to be ice forming on the fine screens in the pickups of the tank. I took the screens and the pickups out a few times on the trail and heated them over another sled engine compartment to thaw them out and the gas just runs out of them when they finally thaw out. Isopropyl didn't seem to help as I think the gas was less than 32 degrees, so the water wouldn't get absorbed that was in the gas. I finally got to a station that I asked if they could tell me the gas temperature in the pumps. One pump had 33 degree gas in it and I filled with that and more Isopropyl. Then it ran for 100 miles with no more issues. Other sleds had run fine with the same gas as I used, but for some reason those screens on the 02 EFI are really sensitive.

 

Yes it can be checked by just unplugging the harness to it and using a multimeter. I just replaced mine on my '98 with 4500 miles. It tested fine when cold and then once it was warm it tested bad.

Rob[/b]

Could you elaborate how to check the stator with a multimeter? what wires and what reading they should be?

Thanks
Grant

 

I have LOTS of experinece with ZR sleds. I have a '98 and '02 ZR 600 EFI. I've rebuild this sled from top to bottom at least 3 times. If your sled runs good less than 30 MPH and dies if you give it full throttle, it's most likely the high speed stator coil. You can easily check it by measuring the impedance across the coil. It should be less than 50 ohms. Most likely it is open. I just had this problem last weekend. Anyting over ~6000 RPM and the sled would die. The ZR stator is a known problem. The coil insulation breaks down at high temperatures. I've replaced six stators in this sled over the last 3 years. You can get the stator rebuilt. Look in back of a SNOWTECH magaxine for "Stator Corp". They located are in Mass.


My experience with ZR electrical problems.
1) I've had the throttle safety switch fail twice. I finally disconnected it. Symptoms: Engine spuratically cuts out or dies. Engine monentarily feels like it is running on 1 cyclinder. This problem can drive you crazy. You may think that the engine is overheating, starving fuel, etc.

2) Eletrical grounds. The ZR has a bad grounding system. The engine is grounded to the frame near the exhaust sliencer via a wire from the engine. THe ECU is grounded to the steering bracket. Depending on the age of you sled and the amount of corssion due to dissimuliar metal (steel to aluminum), I've measure over 200 ohms resistance. I suggest that a 10ga wire be run from the ECU ground on the hadle bar to the ground point on the engine. This has cleared up many intermittent "ghost" problems.

3) '98, '99 cooling system. Because of the stator problem, I installed accurate digital temperature gauges on my '98 and '02 sleds. The ZR thermostat is set at 120 deg. The '98 runs consistantly 20 deg hotter than the '02. The '02 runs pretty steady at 123 deg in good snow. The '98 consistantly runs at 142 deg in good snow. I assume this is the main reason the '98 sled has gone thru so many stators. Note, when the trails are hard (regardless of temperature), both sleds can easily run at 180 -200 deg. This is hot. With just an idiot light, you really don't know how hot your sled is running until it comes on. If the trails are hard, I take the thermostat out. It can reduce temps by 30 deg or more. This can be easily done on the trail. Just remember to pull the rubber gasket off the themostat and place it back into the housing. When stopping for fuel, eats, etc. let motor run for 1 minute before shutdown. This allows the engine to cool a bit from running hard. Don't let engine idle for more than 3 minutes. Temps can easily get over 200 deg fast. Believe it or not it takes 2-3 miles running on good soft snow to cool a hot engine back down to operating temperatures after a normal fuel stop.

 

where did u get the digital temp gauge?

 

Holeshot very interesting.And yes where did you get the digital temp gagae and did you cut the 1" top hose for install? How did ya wire it for 12v ac usage? Thanx-Al

 

where did u get the digital temp gauge?[/b]

I have a cyberdyne UltraGage (red) digital gauge. You can find them on www.egauges.com. Do not get a green lit gauge. You can't see it in daylight. Note, since the ZR's have an AC electrical system, you must build (or buy) a 12V voltage regulator. Its easiy to build one for about ~$6.00 in parts. If you don't know how, I can send to a schematic.

 

Yes I've read on here that at least one guy lost a piston because of a bad stator.

Rob[/b]

Yes, it is very possible to burn a cylinder. When the high speed stator goes, the engine will run very lean when you get the RPM's above 6000. In my case temps went to 220 before I got home (60 miles). I stopped several times to let it cool down. If you don't see the idiot light (which is almost too late), the engine can burn down.

 

Yes, it is very possible to burn a cylinder. When the high speed stator goes, the engine will run very lean when you get the RPM's above 6000. In my case temps went to 220 before I got home (60 miles). I stopped several times to let it cool down. If you don't see the idiot light (which is almost too late), the engine can burn down.[/b]

I got the same problem 98 zr efi 6000 miles the thing runs good some times and like s@#t other times when you stop a nail it it back fires and spits a sputters and takes off it will go to like 7000 rpms and then drop off to like 58 to 6000 rpms the safty switch is unhooked. Tonight I went to pull it in to the shop pulled the cord ran like 10 sec hit the gas then it died and would not start picked up the back end and droped it pulled the cord and it ran just fine into the shop?????? WTF!!!!!

 

Could you elaborate how to check the stator with a multimeter? what wires and what reading they should be?

Thanks
Grant[/b]

Look for a white or clear 3-wire connector. The wires will be Brown, Green, and Black. Make sure you lift the locking tab to separate the connector (small screw driver will work). The high speed coil are the Black and Green wires. The low speed coil are the Brown and Green wires. The High speed coil impedance should measure ~450 ohms. The low speed coil should measure ~46 ohms. If either coil measure a short or open, then it is bad. You should run the sled until the problem occurs, then measure it. I've seen that a cold stator will measure OK, but once warm it will measure bad.

 

If you need a stator try this guy.
Custom Rewind 800-798-7282
$125 1 year warranty
His name is Gary and his in Alabama.
He'll send you one out today charge you $175
when he receives your old one, he sends you
a check for $50.
I ordered 2, one my 98 ZR 600 EFI
and one for a friends 98 ZL 500 carb.
only got 60 miles on mine so far
so good.
He's a great guy to deal with.
Thanks,
van

 

i have a 1997 zr440 chassie with a zr600efi in it i put that in 3 years ago and it ran fantastic sec year it acked up so the sumer time i checked the stator and it was bad i bought a new one put it in ran for 10 mins and died so checked it again and it was good so i checked the fule pump and it was bad so i got a new fule pump put it in started on the sec pull and drove it for about 4 miles now i do not have spark but on the ohm meter every thing says it is fine can any body help me out i allready put way tomuch monney into for how much it is worth but i did unplug the safty swiches and still no spark can anybody help me out
thanks
cody

 

Sounds like stator or the computer most of you guys with the problem own efis.

 

Guys I might be a late in my reply, but I aswell as many on this board have had the same problem (idle no problem, dye dye, full throttle let off a little and dye again), culprit in my case and if you check the HCS archives alot of other zr's is a faulty tether switch. Replaced mine and fixed the problem, only to have the new one fail the next season, rewired it out of the ignition loop on the side of the trial and fixed it once and for all.

 

First thing to check on those sleds is open the clutch and check the weights. 90% of the zrs I look at is a clutch problem. Reeds can split open. Do a compression test on engine. The sleds are getting high miles rings will become maitenance.
Again most power loss problems people bring me is from the primary clutch.