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Discussion Starter #1
I got a ZL 600 EFI and it was running great then backfired and quit. The servo seems to be trying to cycle at idle then dies. If I disconnect the power going into the ECU for the power valve side the engine runs great and everything works as it should except the servo motor of course. I have been through the ringer checking everything to figure out why. TSS is disconnected, all stator windings read fine, all grounds are clean. The TPS checks out almost indenticle to my buddies. The servo motor was almost identical reading as well on the position sensor and the motor works with 12 volts. What the hell would make the engine think its at 7000 rpm when it is at idle? No lights flashing on ECU and my ECU works fine on my buddies sled? Any advice or information would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Does the ECU get its RPM signal from the timing sensor on the stator? My wiring diagram shows the timing sensor at 190ohm and mine tested out at 157 ohms? Could that be causing my issue?
 

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Power valves all clean and free with the cables adjusted? It wouldn't explain your backfire and stall issue, but a messed up valve or cable can make the servo sit there and try to cycle like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Power valves were cleaned and are free. I checked the adjustment and it was right in the middle of the range. I only have a few miles on this season and it was running great. The servo on the EFI from what I have read is not supposed to test or clean cycle after start up but it seems like that is what mine is doing. If I unplug the yellow and browns two wire going to the ECU to power the servo circuit the sled runs fine? When I plug it in it will idle for a few seconds then the servo cycles to open and closes and engine dies. You can hear the difference in the exhaust when the valves open. Could the ECU be getting a bad RPM reading?
 

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My uncle had the exact same sled and it went through (2) timing pickups on the flywheel. His had the same symptoms as yours. Erratic power valve operation. Changing the sensor fixed his both times.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am going to try to prove it out today by checking mine against a friends. Thanks very much aglick87 for the response. I know this has to have happen to other people before.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Still have not figured this out. My voltage was low on the regulated side down to 8-10 volts so I pulled the regulator plug to let it run on the output of the stator. At idle it was 12-14 volts. I plugged the brown and yellow feed back in for the power valve servo and it stayed idle for maybe 20 seconds then the actuator cycled and the engine dies. After it stopped and I was trying other stuff plugging that power in was acting just like a kill switch. It would kill the engine immediately. Where in the harness would that brown and yellow be able to screw up and act like a kill switch? I have contacted Stator Kevin and he said the numbers I am getting on the stator are correct and the output on the lighting circuit is correct also. Thanks for any advice.
 

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when electrical starts running me in circles that do not make sense I always go back through and triple check every ground ..

Plug your voltage regulator back in as your dealing with AC voltage ....then take a look at the wiring diagram the efi/esr has a diode in the voltage regulator for the APV and a 7.5 amp fuse in line from the starter solenoid ...


http://countrycat.com/ccstore/kbase/wiring_diagrams/2002_Snow.pdf

here are the wiring diagrams .. look close the ohm values are there for every coil and sensor ..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have one ground from the lighting coil part of the stator to the engine right above the timing sensor. One from the front motor mount to the chassis and one from the recoil housing to the resonator mount on the exhaust. They are all 100%. Is the brown from the lighting coil on the stator what grounds the ECU? I do not see any other grounds. I downloaded the 2002 manuals to use for reference and testing. So far everything has checked out.
 

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I see 4 factory grounds in that system .. one from the battery to frame/engine covers for electric start .. one from lighting coil to engine to cover the a/c system that runs thru the ECU .. and one thru the voltage regulator .. that with use of a diode also grounds/regulates the a/c system and the 12 volt D/C system that powers your APVs ... and the 4th .. not shown should be the ground from the engine to the frame
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got the regulator and the browns from the battery wiring tied to the bulkhead by the chaincase. I think that covers all of them. I have a new regulator on the way so once I have the correct regulated voltage on the system I will start again. Thanks for the reply ndtorque.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I wanted to post to let everyone know I fixed my issue that I was having with my power valve actuator freaking out by changing out the timing sensor on my sled. You can change the sensor by removing the motor mount that covers the sensor. It is tight and sucks but better than pulling the whole motor. I used 5mm Allen head bolts when putting it back in to replace the philips head ones just in case I have to do it again. Two bolts by the steering shaft into the crank case, one from underneath by the sensor and the motor mount to the chassis. Thanks for all the help and advice.
 

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Unreal. There must have been something up with those 2002 sensors. Just funny that my uncle's tossed 2 and yours also. You don't hardly ever hear of them going bad. Glad we could assist.
 

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I replaced two that ohmed on the edge of or just out of spec, neither of them fixed the problem I was having (stator one time, rubbed wire the other). I'm not sure I've ever seen one go bad myself.
 
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