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Got a customer with an '00 ZR700, totally stock- jetting and clutching. The performance is lackluster, to say the least. What did you guys do for jetting, clutching and gearing to make this thing run better and at what Rpms does it work the best. Thanks, snap
 

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I had both a '99 (needed lots of tweaking) and a 2000-LE. All it needed to rock n roll / achieve decent fuel mileage was........

-out of the box Goodwin kit
-gutted air box
-300 or 310 mains (cant' remember which)
That along with paying attention to keeping the clutches clean / well set up saw it turn from a dog to a very capable sled that was more than up to the task of hanging with (or taking down the odd one) XC 700's and the likes. Put 7500+ totally reliable miles on it.
 

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I found that the yellow/white spring in front DDR2 helix, grey rear srping and the stock weights, 23/40 gears, which i think is in it already boyesen reeds, and 310s to be safe and drop the needle to 2 position for snappy mid range.......I beat a mxz summit 800 with clutching and gearing with that setup.....from take off to top end. now I know his top end wont be the same as he had a 2" paddle but his hp should make up the difference....but no go.....but each area's setup will be different.
 

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I am currenty building a 2000 zr 700 It is not done yet but it has gutted air box, jetting, Black magic twin pipes, and some clutch work. I guess my friend is putting some polaris clutch springs and weights in it. I guess you can really wake a 700 up with some work.
 

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When I got my 99' (new), it was a dog, after 3-4 weekends on the timers I ended up with 59 grams (I ground the heels on a set of Polaris 10-60's), pulling a 60/50 helix with a Cat orange primary. Stock gear was fine (24/39), .010 off the heads and it gave everything fits up to 1,000'. Second year I went with a set of Decker twins and it made a big difference, this engine does like twins. It was stronger with the origonal CDI (they recalled them in 99') because they took out alot of mid timing to allow jet reduction to to improve mileage.
 

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23/40 and pulls the whole way up :ylsuper:

The 650/700 was BORN with twins. For '99-'00, that should have never changed and maybe they would have received a little more respect in stock form. Definetly find some twins. ANY twins are better than the stock single. I personally run the D&D trail twins, couldn't ask for better pipes. Although I am a PSI fanatic, I think the PSI's for the '99-'00 ZR 700 wind it up a little too high for my liking. Not a fan of Black Magic but I know some guys on here have good luck with them. Just incase you go to look on eBay, twins for this machine are pulling serious coin. I got mine for $127 USD two Summers ago. They are EASILY in the $200+ range now.

-Edit for Twin Pipe comment
 

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I have the 2000 gear ratio on my 99ZR 700
Black Magic twins w/ quiet cannister sounds awesome, it really not louder than stock, just throatier (if you know what I mean) sounds more like a 900 now.
Twins made this sub-par sled into a real contender. It comes off the line as good as anything out there. Most times, better!
I run 10-60 Polaris weights/ A/C orange primary, A/C green secondary and a 56/40 helix. I dont lake race, I ride trails 95% of the time and what a trail combo this is.
I agree with keeping the stock cdi in it, its faster with it that way. Carbontech reeds for me (any aftermarket reeds help, but you have to remove the cylinders to put them on) good news is that they dont cost very much. .020 timing key (may remove this though)
My airbox is modified, not gutted. I drilled 5 or 6 1&1/8 holes in the insert, removed plastic from where the air comes into the main part of the airbox( both sides) gave the foam a haircut to allow more air in and removed the coarse foam from the foot well areas where it gets its air from. does this work? Oh ya!. Now the best part of it, I keep a small roll of duct tape in the "small side" of the air box ( right side of the steering post of the airbox) When the temp drops, I tape up all the holes in the insert and it's pretty much back to stock. Back to being restrictive and more than likely a richer set-up so I dont melt down. Yes changing jets is the best way to go, but in a pinch, this works. and changing jets when its 5 below isnt fun.
I pasted this sled down to my son ( I have an 05 F7 snopro joker edition, red) But every chance I get , I still ride the old gal. Its that good/fun of a machine. He likes riding the joker anyway.
I purchased this sled new in the fall of 98. Still have it and dont plan on selling it.
Did I mention how well they handle?
 

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IMHO the 99' ZR700 (although most called them dogs) was the best riding/handling sled Cat ever made until the 04' DD ZR SnoPro, the 99' 600 was good but was a little light in the front end, the weight of the 700 engine made it a perfectly balanced machine.
 

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ZRNewf and Tigger, are you guys ever in Ontario? I'd like to go for a ride with you guys sometime. I bought a '98 ZR 500 rolling chassis and stuffed well nearly dropped in a Freddy 7. Easy swap. You guys are always so helpful whenever anyone asks about these machines. I just barely got my dialed in as the snow left last year and am anxiously waiting for this year. It felt so strong and it wasn't even studded. Waxed my roomie's stock ZR800 out on the lake. Never got to trail ride it. I'm also running the early '94-'95 ignition, don't know if it helps out but it's cheap to replace and I had it sitting out in the shop.
 

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I have a 700 wild cat in a 440 chassis...i just put psi twins on her....what should my engine rev out to with these pipes..what clutching should i run....what gears....any more go fast hints would be nice...i have 40mm carbs,psi pipes.....inch trach...21/39 gears......i would like to set her up for 660ft......i had a 1130 dayco max belt on her and it was a little loose.....when i ran my sled to around 900 feet the sled was flying, and then the belt jumped out of my motor clutch...is this from my belt being a little loose or is my motor out of line...i drove my sled for a long time just flyin' around on this belt..but when i held her for a long time (800-900 ft) the belt blew....any help on this.......jetting..clutching..and rpm's for my psi twins would be nicew to know.......thanks guys......john.d
 

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twiggy probabaly wont be in ont with my sled. but would love to ride there. 440, those pipes supoosedly spin at higher RPM than my D&D/s call psi for info is your best bet
 

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my sled was workin' aaaaaaaaaaaaa++++++++++++ and then she started working on one cylinder......there is lots of fire and lots of compression....lots of gas .....does anyone have any idea on what this could be...it was on the clutch side at first...i put a new set of plugs in her and she worked fine for about 5 minutes and than one cylindr again...but on the pullcord side this time...........WTF.......... it is a 700c wildcat motor...any help?...i cheacked my pulg wires...there is brand new pulg caps.....i have uni air filters, they are a little dirty on the outside but look very clean on the inside?it sems like when you start it up she runs fine than when you give her throttle she goes to one cylinder....i have my stock pipes on her now an they leak a little bit....maybe the fumes are smothering her out where i have the air filters???????some one told me my stator was gone........none of my lights work since i put the 700c in the 440 body.but it always ran great..is this my lighting coil(my tachometer doesn't work either)i am stuck on this one and it is starting to piss me off..some info would be very helpfull.......does any body have any idea what this could be....
 

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thanks man...to tell you the truth i had my handle bars off the other day and there were wires that ran through my bars for the handle bar warmers and my kill switch.... and i cut them off as i thought they didnt work anyway and my kill switch never worked...i always used the red safty pull button...so do you think this might be my problem........
 
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