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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Man... what a Pain in the Butt!

I've got all the bolts out, the cover is free and I don't know how this thing will come off, as the bottom gear, with the spring on it seems to be in the way.

Was I supposed to engage the reverse prior to taking the cover off? What a pain.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mike
 

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Mike to get the cover up past the belly pan you need to unbolt the rt side control arm from the tunnel then put just a little heat from a heat gun or torch on the belly pan to make that area expand or slightly soft. once its warm and the cover comes out I will push that area out to creat more room for the cover to pass by going in and cool it off with cold water. the problem your having is normal most of them dont clear the cover , no need to shift the cover forward or reverse if I recall correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
XC Mark,

Thanks for the input. I've never had a sled with reverse, and now I know why! WOW. I'll unbolt the control arm and add some heat.

I got in there to check what gearing this thing has on it, as my chain tensioner is almost completely all the way in. Don't like that kind of angle on the chain.

As for the gearing, I'm thinking there may not be many options with the reverse setup. I'll probably swap it all over to my 99XC and put a non reverse chaincase on the XCR.

Thanks... I'll pull it completely off tomorrow.
 

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MY21 650 SBA 146, ES, ICE Storm 1.5
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Originally posted by Fire Chicken@Oct 16 2005, 08:53 PM
XC Mark,

Thanks for the input.  I've never had a sled with reverse, and now I know why!  WOW.  I'll unbolt the control arm and add some heat. 

I got in there to check what gearing this thing has on it, as my chain tensioner is almost completely all the way in.  Don't like that kind of angle on the chain.

As for the gearing, I'm thinking there may not be many options with the reverse setup.  I'll probably swap it all over to my 99XC and put a non reverse chaincase on the XCR.

Thanks... I'll pull it completely off tomorrow.
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You will be limited to a 39/40/41 bottom sprocket choice. Top sprocket is limited by chain length combinations, as usual.
 

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Yeah......Pretty much a total pain in the #$*&^%$

Off with the trailing arm and soemtimes even off with a couple of rivets to pull the belly pan away!

Needless to say.....do your homework on gearing and chain options etc before you put her back together!

Also evaluate the driveline bearings now too. Depending on mileage/condition you may want to do the 4 bearings and be done with it all..particularily if you plan on piling on some miles. Not too much more grief to do all the bearings while you're this far in.
It's what I did and was very glad I did....6000 miles later and no probs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I'll probably pull it all apart now and replace the chaincase/jackshaft bearings as I'm going to long track it anyway with a TracksUSA kit.

I'm thinking a 136 Ripsaw will be the best for traction... 1 in. or 1 1/4 is my only issue. I know 1 in. will be faster, less rotating weight and air push, but the 1 1/4 will probably provide better hookup.

Anyone have any input on lug height's, I'd appreciate that. I'll post what the gearing is once I get in there.
 

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Running a 136"x1.25" connected cone type Camo (pre Ripsaw) on an XCR with Edge suspension. Hard trail use/cruiser. Not racing, some light usage on lakes. Track isn't even studded - none. Too much traction in the corners for HARD play - for me anyway. If I were to do it again tomorrow, I would try out one of the new prestudded tracks with a 1" lug height.

Have reverse too! You don't want to do that again. Be very carefull of potential oil leaks when reassembling. Make sure to use a new driveshaft seal, and make damn sure to use some blue loctite on that lower bolt!

If you didn't see the hint earlier about reinstalling that lower spring, try collapsing it in a vice, secure with 2 tie wraps 180 degrees apart. Cut and remove tie wraps as soon as bolt (with loctite!) is started.
 

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I am running a 136 x 1.25 studded rip saw , its a factory pre punched for 144 ~160 something (cant recall) . I am only running 108 studs all in double backer up the middle. They are woodys 1325 , I think they are just a little short so you dont get a lot of extra traction from them. Double backer and tall nut keep thing in the track just fine even with a 135+ hp 700 . Over studding isnt much fun on tight trails , the sled just will not turn. been there done that never again....just enough to deal with icy hills and shorten stoping distance is fine with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
michahicks,

When I pulled the cover off, there was absolutely "NO OIL" in the chaincase. Must've all leaked out from the previous job someone else did.

Luckily I didn't fry my chain, although there is a lot of shavings on the stick.

Might want to replace the chain now.

yeah, I'll use locktite and probably buy a new gasket for the chaincase. I'm really tempted about changing it and getting rid of the reverse.

So, for speed, trail riding and drag racing for bragging rights, you would go with a 136, 1 in. Ripsaw and stud it? My XCR is flannery ported with HTG Heads and HTG Tripple pipes, supposed to be rated at 185 HP. I'm thinking the 136 will give me the traction I need out of the hole. how is your out of the gate? Does it still blow the track apart?

Mike
 

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even with a studded 136 x 1 1/4 my prox 700 with mods( 135 hp) blows the snow out the back if you have the skid frame set for trail riding. maybe if you set the rear ss stop to transfer max weight/traction it may not be as bad. I have never come up with a happy medium it hooks hard and has poor trail manors or it turns twisty like a champ and throws roost big time. so whats your rideing style? stab and steer or coast around corners and light it up once your strait?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's only if Beedo is trying to pass me in that corner.

With the ponies this thing puts out... stabbing in the corners could send you into the woods, el' Pronto!

On this sled, it's more steering through and lighting it up. The XC 7, is stab and steer.

But then there are the occasional times when some GNR or Motley Crue comes through my earbuds from the iPod... and I start rockin' :) :buttrock:

This clickable is for you beedo! :lsvader:
 

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With my experience, and one of the new prestudded types, I would at least try it without the track studs for a few miles. That's kinda what I did (at Bruce from TracksUsa's suggestion). I get along very well without them! (I did get stuck on the asphalt using some new carbides with this setup though - pretty embarassing!) On the average trail, using a 136" I don't think you really pick up that much traction with the studs. Thinking it might be more about track design (but that's just me). A little clutching/gearing and you're going to be launching pretty hard compared to your 121" friends....and with the power you have on tap, well, you should have some fun!

Been spending a lot of time looking for that "compromise" set up. Currently, have link in rear hole, RRSS in middle hole on low, FRSS in rear on high. Working on getting the ride height a little higher. This isn't working too bad, higher would be better though. Might go with one of the aftermarket tension adjusters that are able to give a little more preload. HD springs are too much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
michahicks,

Thanks for the input. I've decided to long track the xcr and put the new 121 xcr track on my XC 700. You've made me think of yet another scenario... If I go a 136 1in. I'll be studding up the middle, causing more rotating weight. If I go a 1.250, I may not have to stud at all.

I can't wait to feel the arm stretch with a new track. Yes, I'll hold off on the studs for the first couple rides and see how I like it.
 

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In my experience with my 01 xcr800....i had tried to remove the control arm, but it wouldn't budge.......heating up the plastic worked wonders...and removing few rivets as mentioned won't hurt but i don't remember if it's necessary. I used a bullet heater about 48" away for a minute or so.
 
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