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Discussion Starter #1
drive shaft just broke in half. wild .less than 2000 mi on sled .ever happen to you guys ? any one have one ? they are cheep on da bay. stopped my great ride today. but made it 100 mi and broke in a buds yard . just as i was thinking what a great old girl she is .stupid sled .
 

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broke shaft on my 99 xc700 and on a borrowed 98 500. Both were rusty , like they were halfway cracked for a while before they let go. took out chaincase both times iirc
 

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Been discussed here before. Possibly switching to 4 driver axle would take some stress off the center of the axle? I put 4 drivers on my xc just because. Theres a few xcr800 4 driver driveshafts on ebay, cheap. Little extra work to install, gotta remove the chain case but that's easy. The fight is removing and installing the reverse case cover.
 

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Snapped the driveshaft in my 1995 XLT when it was still under warranty. It broke just as I crested a hill on a high line trail. The track locked up and I slid out of control down the hill as another sledder came up the hill at me. I was lucky we didn't hit head on!
 

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Been discussed here before. Possibly switching to 4 driver axle would take some stress off the center of the axle? I put 4 drivers on my xc just because. Theres a few xcr800 4 driver driveshafts on ebay, cheap. Little extra work to install, gotta remove the chain case but that's easy. The fight is removing and installing the reverse case cover.
Its 17-18 years ago but I thought my xc had a 4 driver shaft. Checked the parts diagrams and they also shows a 2 driver shaft so guess I was wrong :)

My thought is that these breaking shafts had material defects , making them prone to crack
 

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Been discussed here before. Possibly switching to 4 driver axle would take some stress off the center of the axle? I put 4 drivers on my xc just because. Theres a few xcr800 4 driver driveshafts on ebay, cheap. Little extra work to install, gotta remove the chain case but that's easy. The fight is removing and installing the reverse case cover.
Our guys broke driveshafts more often on 4 sprocket triple sleds and 3 sprocket twins than just the 2 sprocket sleds...once the develop a hairline crack, its a matter of time before they chit the bed. Some the guys even went to a military grade titanium driveshaft which never broke
 

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Its 17-18 years ago but I thought my xc had a 4 driver shaft. Checked the parts diagrams and they also shows a 2 driver shaft so guess I was wrong :)

My thought is that these breaking shafts had material defects , making them prone to crack
This...or a stress crack.
 

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Our guys broke driveshafts more often on 4 sprocket triple sleds and 3 sprocket twins than just the 2 sprocket sleds...once the develop a hairline crack, its a matter of time before they chit the bed. Some the guys even went to a military grade titanium driveshaft which never broke
Damn, up to now I thought I was sleeping better at night with the 4 drivers... :bc2:
 

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Damn, up to now I thought I was sleeping better at night with the 4 drivers... :bc2:
If your a pounder of moguls or have a bad shaft to begin with, sooner or later your going to break one on these old sleds. Whenever you replace a track, its a good idea to have the shaft carefully checked. I've got a buddy with a magna flux machine that i had mine checked when i did some sprocket alignment work on the sled.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks to ya all i picked this sled off a friend who i didn't even know had it ,even though we talk a lot .he only pulled his kids around on sleds with it kept in garage looks like new. he got it new. so i bought it i have been eazy on it .it's my low snow sled .so as not to beat my cat to death . like i say pulled into yard had pow wow with bud went to roll out and drivers skipped i was wowed. haven't pulled it down yet we got snow but its not leaking oil, so hoping case is cool, thanks for all your advice, i can fix most anything but i'm not the sharpest at polaris .
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
bought single slp pipe system .sounds mean hope it works ok ,stock pipe was rusted to death under heat shield . any tips for this set up ? i see it calls for needle and idle jet and clutch mods do them or it will be ok with stock jets and clutching ? ps got the whole system new off da bay for 300$, they wanted 200$ for another used junkyard pipe .
 

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slp pipe needs to be loaded to make heat and work properly , with stock clutching it'll probably run beter with the stock pipe
 

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almond/gold drive spring
10-62 weights
r-12 helix or a 48/36
silver/blue Polaris driven hole #2

stock gearing

182 main jets down to zero degrees
190 below zero
 

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almond/gold drive spring
10-62 weights
r-12 helix or a 48/36
silver/blue Polaris driven hole #2

stock gearing

182 main jets down to zero degrees
190 below zero
:dunno: Not so sure its going to pull the 62 weights with that helix using the rest of those clutch components....maybe if you can retain enough heat in the pipe? I'd throw in a helix with a 34 degree finish angle...something like an R8 using those components.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i'm no pro clutch tuner so all your advice is surely appreciated , i see some epi kits on e bay ,would they be a place to start or just do mods as you men list ? thanks . i know it's like 80 up here at sled camp but i like to have the fleet ready for action .
 

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Save your money on those aftermarket clutch kits....plenty of good info right here. What rick listed might work well under good drag race conditions, but imo wouldn't perform as well in a multitude of snow conditions you'd see trail riding.
 

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almond gold is a good spring, almond blue or team blue might be a better all around spring. stock jetting is pretty close with the SLP pipe
 
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