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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well,

The season is closer than I think so I am going to try and get some opinions on a new setup for my ZRT. I was going to sell it and try something new, but I can't let it go just yet. The sled has all the mods in my sig, but I just wonder if I could make it run better with a better clutch setup. My dads 96 ZRT 600 is piped also and his clutch setup is WAY off and I still cant run away from him like I would like to. I am not sure of the specific components that the D&D kit uses, but I am just fishing for ideas at this point.

I will be re-studding this year with some longer studs and I think that traction is my biggest issue.

Hoping for a good winter!!!!!!!!!! :banana: :banana:
 

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Tell us more details on current clutching, gears, track type, motor, rpms, pipes, airbox, etc...
We'll help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't know the exact clutching setup thats in it. I can try to identiy when I bring it home. It is the D&D kit for their pipes so maybe I am just expecting too much from the sled, and it is set up right. The motor turns 8600 rpm and seems to pull hard, but that little 600 can stay right with me. Gearing is stock, track is stock with 240 studs but they are too short. The airbox has the d&d powerbreather on it. I have 450 mains in it right now and the needle is set one clip richer, but I think that needs to be moved back one clip leaner.

The sled never had the updates done in 99, which changed the CDI, and main jets, but from what I have read, I have the more aggressive CDI anyways.

It is fast, but if there is something left on the table, I dont want to be missing out LOL. Also, when it is idling it makes a metalic type sound that sounds like something is spinning. Could my balance shaft bearings be bad???????
 

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The '99's were pouch's before the updates. They were way rich, the clutching was off and I thought the CDI added more advance. They were the slowest 800 out of the box and got as little as 7-8 mpg. We need to know the clutching spec's you have now, what it runs for RPM now, what you need to run for RPM and what you want to clutch it for. Drag racing, trail riding, or both.
 

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hopefully you guys can help me out here to. My 99 has stock jetting, y/g primary spring, green secondary spring, stock weights. Top end is about 105 but I get there really fast and it pulls all the way. I am putting on a power breather and tempa-flow for this winter.
 

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Originally posted by 87gtNOS@Sep 9 2005, 02:59 PM
My buddy tried tempa-flow, don't waste your time.

More info for you later..
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Tempa-Flow's work, they are about the single most impressive and effective after market part you can add. They work 100% as advertised, you can see a massive difference with EGT's, anybody who has a carb should have one.
 

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Yes i agree, the Tempa flow will pay for itself in fuel savings in a month.
I put it on a 1004 that I did, it had a lot more throttle response and went from 6 mpg to almost 10 mpg
Your buddy couldn't have hooked it up right.
I have them on my 99 ZRT 1004, my 98 tcat and both 03 900's.
When set up right, the 99 ZRT 800 was the best of all of ZRT's.
It ran the 98 Tcat electronics, Any body that knows anything knows that the 98 Tcat was the fastest Tcat to date
 

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Tempaflows are very easy to install, as you can see in the photo below, it comes out of the front of the airbox and goes to the top of one carb.
I only had a blue hose at the time, I have since changed it as it clashed with all my red LOL
 

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Originally posted by snow800@Sep 10 2005, 11:10 AM
Tempaflows are very easy to install, as you can see in the photo below, it comes out of the front of the airbox and goes to the top of one carb.
I only had a blue hose at the time, I have since changed it as it clashed with all my red LOL
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What exactly do Tempaflows do?
 

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I generally rely on pure power for throttle response!!

BUT, you guys have my curiousity. I think I can get this kit from my buddy..hehe..and try it out maybe!
 

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Originally posted by jtman04401@Sep 10 2005, 11:32 AM
What exactly do Tempaflows do?
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They work off of pressure and vacuum.


Here it goes.

The tempaflow itself is about the size of a 410 shotgun shell.

You drill a hole in your airbox so the tempaflow sets in it. You then drill a hole in the back of your airbox and take the supplied hose and hook it on the back of the tempa flow and the other end of the hose and put it on a supplied fitting that you mount in the back side of the airbox that sucks air between the back of the airbox and the front of the gas tank.
The reason this is to draw air that is the actual outside temp. air. not partial heated air from under the hood.
You then take the supplied nipple and drill a hole in the top plate of your flatslide carb and peen the nipple to stay in.(side of carb on a round slide) Then you hook the front of the tempaflow to that nipple and it gets it vacuum there, there is a smaller nipple on the side of tempa flow itself. you then take and get all of your vent lines on the carbs and take the supplied plastic vaccum T's and tee them all together and leave one of the ports open, you then take a small supplied hose and put the hose on the open port on the tee up to the nipple on the side of the tempaflow.
you jet it at 20 below zero. when it gets that cold it opens up and flows free, anything warmer it puts a suction on it like holding your finger over a drinking straw to a certain extent with a liquid in it
and uses vacumm to only let a certain amount of fuel travel through it at all times.
The colder it is the more it opens up, the warmer the more it put a suction to restrict the amount of fuel that gets through,
Holtzman claims a 2% hp gain and up to a 8 % increase in fuel economy.

In my opinion its the best thing since sliced bread!
 

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99ZRT800

How fast you want your trail buggy to go???
The sky's the limit.

For about $600 I could make that thing faster than a cat could lick his a$$
with his tongue right over the hole !!
Do a mild trail port to let it breath, and some of my recomended clutching and jetting

I have built a lot of these engines from a stock engine to big bores over the ten years I have been messing around with them.
I am only about a hour south of you.
Let me know
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Originally posted by snow800@Sep 10 2005, 10:03 AM
When set up right, the 99 ZRT 800 was the best of all of ZRT's.
It ran the 98 Tcat electronics, Any body that knows anything knows that the 98 Tcat was the fastest Tcat to date
Was this before or after the update?????? my sled has NOT had the updates done to it, and I heard that I have the CDI of the 98 so it should be the best. I know I have a D&D teal primary spring and a D&D black secondary. I am not sure what helix is in the sled or the weights. It revs to 8600 and seems to pull hard, but I just thought it would be faster for some reason. I get very bad gas mileage too. I can't even go 100 miles on a tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Originally posted by snow800@Sep 12 2005, 09:50 AM
you have the good cdi. You won't get much than a 100 miles to a tank.
The 99 has a 9.9 gal tank, the 2000 has a 13 gal and 2001 up has a 12 gal.
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Awesome info. I may need to get some advice on clutching/jetting from you later on when I get it back home to get it ready for the winter. I am going to put 144 new studs in the center for this year also. I am running 450 mains and the needle is set one clip richer, but it sputters a little in the middle so I may try the needle back in the stock location. My buddy has a 2000 ZRT, I wonder if I can swap the seats for the larger gas tank?????? LOL
 

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Originally posted by jtman04401@Sep 10 2005, 11:32 AM
What exactly do Tempaflows do?
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You plumb a vacuum source into one of your carbs. Hook the vacuum source up to the Tempaflow body, it has a special sensor inside which senses air temperature. You also hook the Tempaflow body up to the carb vent lines, the Tempaflow senses the air temperature and changes the pressure in the fuel bowls accordingly, to lean the mixture out. You get a much wider window of proper jetting, the sled will run as well at -20 as it does at 20. It's an easy install and relatively cheap for what it does. http://www.holtzmaneng.com, their website sucks but there are some prices and docs on their about the device.

I think I've tried about everything over the years on snowmobiles (Clutches/Helixes/Pipes/Can's/big bore/suspension/lightweight parts), I have no doubt this is the best bang for the buck on a carb'ed sled. I didn't believe it either until I tried it,
 

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I had the same problem with fuel mileage and found the choke cable was pinched by the air box holding it open once this was fixed the sled picked up on fuel mileage and performance. Just make sure every time you put the air box in the choke cable is free, I loosely tie wraped it to the steering shaft and after the air box is in place cut off the tie's. This helped me a bunch I hope it helps you. If you have the big main jet's leave them in I now run 470's. I have a Onestop performance clutch kit and it rocks, Had a D&D not real impressed but the Onestop kicks.
 

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What exactly do your plugs look like with 470 main jets? They have to be caked black! I ran 330 mains for three years with a D&D power breather, V-Force reeds and reed block spacers. I then added AAEN ceramic coated pipes and ended up at 370 mains. My plugs are a beautiful light brown color and revs to 8600-8700 instantly. 470 mains have to be wayyyyyy to high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Originally posted by triple800@Sep 15 2005, 05:24 PM
What exactly do your plugs look like with 470 main jets? They have to be caked black! I ran 330 mains for three years with a D&D power breather, V-Force reeds and reed block spacers. I then added AAEN ceramic coated pipes and ended up at 370 mains. My plugs are a beautiful light brown color and revs to 8600-8700 instantly. 470 mains have to be wayyyyyy to high.
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I know if your sled has the updates done that 350's were stock. Since my sled has not had the updates, it is 400 stock. I am running 450's with my D&D pipes and power breather, and I will probably go to 460's this year. I think with the original CDI, it needs more fuel.
 
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