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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please help!?!?!?!?!? I have read many postings and haven't had any luck.

1. Disconnected the TPS/Kill Switch: NO LUCK!!!

2. Tried ohm(ing) the stator: DON'T KNOW WHAT THE HELL I'M DOING!!!

3. Had the coil tested at the dealer: IT'S GOOD.

4. Checked wire condition. ALL GOOD!!!

5. Disconnected the key switch: NO LUCK!!!

6. Ignition Timing sensor Green/white to brown ohm(ed) at 91 ohms: GOOD OR NOT????

Someone please help!!!!!!!!! I'm lost on this.

Is it necessary to pull the engine to replace the stator and/or Ignition Timing sensor?

The red light on my ECU flashes 1 time per pull of the starter rope, what does this mean?

Please help!!!!!!!! Anyone knowledgeable!!!!!!!!!
 

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Sounds like a stator to me and looking at my wifes 2000 ZR600 it would be easier if you pull the engine but you don't have to. Good luck.
 

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Replacing the stator is not a difficult job. However you should properly test it first.If you checked ohms on the ignition sensor than why can't you test the stator? These are the specs for a 98. I'm sure they are the same.
black to green 36.8-55.2 ohms (low speed)
brown to green 360-540 ohms (high speed)
blue/white to blue 21 ohms (injector coil)
orange to orange 1.8 ohms (fuel pump)
yellow to yellow .09 ohms (lighting coil)

The ingition timing sensor is low book says 152-228 ohms. But I have heard of people getting readings in the 90's with a great running sled? Check your stator and for any bare wires. Hope this helps! By the way, you can remove your pipe and recoil to get to the flywheel. Once the flywheel is off the stator is right there. It would be foolish to remove engine.
 

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Oh yeah, the red light that flashes once when you pull it over. It means that the ecu is good. More flashes means problem codes.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Replacing the stator is not a difficult job. However you should properly test it first.If you checked ohms on the ignition sensor than why can't you test the stator? These are the specs for a 98. I'm sure they are the same.
black to green 36.8-55.2 ohms (low speed)
brown to green 360-540 ohms (high speed)
blue/white to blue 21 ohms (injector coil)
orange to orange 1.8 ohms (fuel pump)
yellow to yellow .09 ohms (lighting coil)

The ingition timing sensor is low book says 152-228 ohms. But I have heard of people getting readings in the 90's with a great running sled? Check your stator and for any bare wires. Hope this helps! By the way, you can remove your pipe and recoil to get to the flywheel. Once the flywheel is off the stator is right there. It would be foolish to remove engine.[/b]
Thanks for the help. Like I said I'm not the greatest with multimeter. I was able to hack my way through ohm(ing) the ignition timing sensor. Is there any way of telling which setting to put my multimeter on for each of these tests? Is the ignition timing sensor in the same location as the stator?
 

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You still want to leave you multimeter on resistance or ohms for all the measurements. The stator connector should be near the timing sensor connector. Lots of timing sensors measure in the 90-100 ohm range but that's no guarantee whether it's good or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You still want to leave you multimeter on resistance or ohms for all the measurements. The stator connector should be near the timing sensor connector. Lots of timing sensors measure in the 90-100 ohm range but that's no guarantee whether it's good or not.[/b]

I understand to keep it in ohms but which setting?

2M

200K

20K

2K

200

>l-

I don't know what any of this means?
 

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K means a thousand and M means a million.

I you leave it on the 2K setting you should be fine. 2K is 2000 ohms and all your readings are suppose to be less than 2000 ohms.
 
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