[snow4me]

I just installed a reverse kit on this thing and it went real well. My question is that the directions in the kit say to torque the chain tension bolt to "X" amount of foot lbs which makes the chain WAY too tight and back if off a half turn, still way too tight. OR, the service manual says to tighten it finger tight with just an "X" amount of play in the chain. The second one is what I did. Yesterday while reinstalling the secondary clutch after a rebuild, it seemed like there was an excessive amount of play when I rotate the clutch forward and backward until the gears stop on the chain, is this right? I don't have any experience in adjusting the tension on a reverse chaincase, only my 98 XC 700 which has no reverse. If I remember correctly on that sled you adjust it until there is just a little play when you grab the brake rotor and rock it forward and backward. Anyhow, I just don't want to chew up this brand new chaincase because of a stupid mistake.

Thnaks, Daryl

 

[can-amsledder]

You did it the same way I do. It does seem like there is more play in it because of the reverse. I’ve always just done them finger tight and I‘ve always second guess myself because they seem loose.

 

[bigwedgies]

i did mine the same, finger tight. but retighten it after you take it for an initial ride. i try to keep mine fairly tight, not alot of play in in the jackshaft. but i do this only for the fact mines on a modified sled. and its only my preference to do this. but ive done it for 3 seasons now with no problems.

 

[snow4me]

Thanks for the confidence! I was very patient while putting this thing together and really didn't like the idea of torqing the thing and backing it off a half turn, it wasn't right. If we ever get some snow I can finally see how my edge suspension conversion job, clutching, carb work and gear change with reverse wake this sled up. Thanks again, Daryl

 

[garyinwi]

I had '96 and '98 Classic 500s with reverse and always used the finger tight less 1/4 turn process. I always thought there was alot of play also but got 8600 miles on one and 66 from the other with no problems.

 

[geewiz]

Hello all...first post here!
In my installation instructions for Reverse, it says 20 INCH pounds of torque. I first misread it and thought it said 20 FOOT pounds - way too tight. Unfortunately, my torque wrench doesn't go down to 20 inch pounds (around 2 foot pounds), but I would imagine it is finger tight.

On my Indy 500, I am having trouble getting the reverse to engage fully - lots of grinding noises, even when the cable is adjusted in most ways. When I lift the rear end, the track does spin in reverse, but put a load on it, and I get grinding noises. Dealer says it is an internal problem. I took off the chaincase cover and everything looked good. Very slight wear on the edges of the gear teeth where they have touched but not fully engaged. Any suggestions?

 

[bigwedgies]

is there alot of miles on your sled? and are all those miles with the reverse kit installed. the cable will stretch. and will run out of adjustment. also parts bend and flex. its definately not engaging all the way. how much freeplay is in the lever?

 

[pockets]

Check if the reverse bracket on the case is bent. 90% of the time it is the cable adjustment not putting it 100% into reverse.

 

[meburdick]

I know this thread is old, but thought I'd share something I witnessed recently (in case it's helpful to someone else).

I have a '98 Classic Touring that was running pretty terribly. The idle is supposed to be 1600 (+- 100) but it was actually at about 1200. There was a serious bog coming up from idle.

I cleaned the carbs and replaced the jets and needle / seat assemblies. The bog is basically gone and it runs extremely smooth now. The positive side effect from all of this is that the reverse now properly engages and disengages. Don't discount a motor issue from lending itself to the issue...

 

[JKieley]

I know this thread is old, but thought I'd share something I witnessed recently (in case it's helpful to someone else).

I have a '98 Classic Touring that was running pretty terribly. The idle is supposed to be 1600 (+- 100) but it was actually at about 1200. There was a serious bog coming up from idle.

I cleaned the carbs and replaced the jets and needle / seat assemblies. The bog is basically gone and it runs extremely smooth now. The positive side effect from all of this is that the reverse now properly engages and disengages. Don't discount a motor issue from lending itself to the issue...

My 94 had very bad bog on it done full cleaning runs like a good but once get off the stand go 5 feet bogs out won't go over 4grand, top in reverse full power for a few feet then Boggs I'm thinking it's a adjustment problem with my cable! Have so much free play it's un real