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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. 1997 ZRT 600. Awesome sled. Put away two years ago, no liquids, nice and clean. Went to start it and will idle but as soon as you give throttle, bogs hard and will stall if you stay on the throttle.If you let off on the throttle, will idle just fine.
When you are on the throttle, seriously rich, smoking like a darn...
Never had the problem before. Had the carbs off fifteen times, totally clean. Me and my sledding budies are out of ideas..
Anyone have any ides...................
 

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Did you do a compression check to make sure engine is ok? Then when you cleaned the carbs did you take the main jet off and poke a wire through it to make sure it's perfectly clean? Did you make sure your needle valve is clean and working and your float height is set correctly? Are your mixture screws set properly? Did you check if your chokes are clean and adjusted to seat properly when off? Are any fuel lines kinked or have air bubbles? Is your vent line for the fuel tank obstructed? Are your fuel pumps connected and working properly ie impulse lines?
Just some ideas.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yup. I have done all of those things. Actually about three times per carb. Those stupid carb over ride switches. Are you referring to the switches in the carbs. If, I had those bypassed shortly after I had bought the sled new..
Does any one know how to check the wiring used to bypass the switche, besides visually looking. It sure seems like it is running the same way when I had those switches bypassed....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did have the fuel pump off when I replaced the fuel lines. I even talked to a cat service department to make sure the lines are on right. But , seeeing that I brought it up. Can someone give me a description of which lines go where. 5 outlets, the three with arrows go to the carbs. Basically the fuel pump is a three peice pump. On the lower part, the smaller fitting goes to the crankcase pulse, correct??????? The fitting at a 90 degree, looks like, is the fuel supply from the tank correct?????????
I've even have had the pipes and stingers off to look for a blockage. Still looking...
 

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Yup. I have done all of those things. Actually about three times per carb. Those stupid carb over ride switches. Are you referring to the switches in the carbs. If, I had those bypassed shortly after I had bought the sled new..
Does any one know how to check the wiring used to bypass the switche, besides visually looking. It sure seems like it is running the same way when I had those switches bypassed....[/b]
follow the wires from the t.o.s down and you should have a 2 wire -single conector w/ brn and wht wires just unplug it - see if that does it for you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Problem fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!!Checked electrical connections. On bypass connections for the carb switches, cleaned with electrical contact cleaner and put electrical grease on the female ends and black taped together good.. On the other bypass connection, just made a new connector with fairly thick gauge wires and new spade ends. Be sure guys if you have a similiar problem, check the ground connections on top of the block next to the recoil. Also replaced this connection with a new connector end. Make sure that you scrape away any paint or corrosion.
 

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Glad it worked out for you, but you don't have to make connectors to bypass the over ride.

If you look at where the plugs from the carb wires connect into the main wiring harness.

You will see a rubber plug that 2 of the carbs plug into, then there is a single wire that the 3rd carb plugs into.
If you take and plug the single wire from the main harness into the double rubber plug, corner to corner, you will bypass the switches that way
 
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