[Graham580]

Hello. I have a 1997 ZR580 efi that I have not run in roughly 5 years. Just looking for some recommendations on going through the machine prior to start up. It has been inside a garage but I can see it has dealt with humidity issues as the spark plugs are showing signs of oxidation. I’ve read a few things that mentioned pouring oil into the cylinders to lubricate the systems. I also plan to drain the old fuel. Should I also be draining the oil and starting with fresh?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is my fathers old sled. It ran fine when put into storage. So I’m hoping to not run into any major issues.
Thanks a bunch.
G

 

[Super 8]

Batteryless efi on that machine. I would change out the chaincase oil but don't worry about the 2-stroke oil in the reservoir. Drain out the old gas like you mention and throw a new set of plugs in.

 

[DGZRT]

Make sure you have a good battery. And don’t leave the key on it will drain it . It’s important to check the carb boots . After you have it running take some carb cleaner and spray it around each rubber boot if the machine revs up then you have a leak and the machine will run lean and burn down . Ask me how I know !! It was one of my favorite sleds . Handles awesome. Make sure to grease everything you can .

 

[DGZRT]

Sorry super 8 is correct 1997 was battery less EFI . Mine needed the battery to run the efi .

 

[Graham580]

Thank you for the replies!

 

[Super 8]

DGZRT, reminded me about the throttle body boots. Take a mirror and look for cracks on the underside.

 

[Graham580]

I was able to get the sled running! Seems to be running good. The only issue I had was exhaust coming out along the seam of the exhaust pipe. The rivets along the edges are loose. Is this the way it’s suppose to be? Can I drill out the rivets and start fresh? Or do I need a new pipe?
Thanks again.
G

 

[Super 8]

The rivets only hold the heat shields in place. Drill out the rivets and remove these shields and see if you can see where it's leaking. It's not uncommon to replace 5&6 in this pic, as they wear out. I have welded up a few Y-pipe's #4 as they can also crack.