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So I picked up a 1996 XCR 440 special a few days ago. Has about 5500 miles. It's probably been sitting a while, and gas is likely old. It was rough getting it up onto the trailer and brought home. It had changed hands a couple of times recently. I checked cold compression today, and both were at 115. It's not a great tester, but both cylinders are at least equal. The engagement was closer to 5000 rpm. I put it on the stand and it doesn't seem to be slipping the belt. The belt is worn, which has increased the BTS clearance. WOT on track stand, and it doesn't really want to get above 6000-7000 rpm. It hardly moves with me on it. Dug into it a little after that. Both clutches are dirty, and the primary for sure could use a rebuild. With the belt off, the secondary and track rotate easily. Visible bearings don't look bad, and there isn't extra play in the jackshaft bearing. No metal in the crankcase, and the fluid looks good, and I haven't taken it apart yet. Speedo isn't working so I'm guessing the key is shot, but the external view of the bearing looks good.
Does anyone have any thoughts? I've had bad carbs before, but it's weird that the rpms are limiting like that. Just wondering how far I want to dig in or if I should just part it out.

Thanks
 

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Was the outside temperature really warm when you tested it? Some of the smaller cc Polaris sleds do not like to move when it's warm out. When temps drop below freezing, however, they are fine.

Other than that, I have nothing to offer.
 

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Not breaking your balls but is it banging on both cyl. ? You can start it up. And touch each side of the y pipe coming of cyl. To see which one is hot and which one is not. Or pull a plug cap while running and see if it kills the cyl.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Was the outside temperature really warm when you tested it? Some of the smaller cc Polaris sleds do not like to move when it's warm out. When temps drop below freezing, however, they are fine.

Other than that, I have nothing to offer.
No, It was around 28 or so at the time. High today was only 30 I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not breaking your balls but is it banging on both cyl. ? You can start it up. And touch each side of the y pipe coming of cyl. To see which one is hot and which one is not. Or pull a plug cap while running and see if it kills the cyl.
I'll try that tomorrow and see. Both plugs looked good. Pistons from what I could see through plug holes also looked good.
 

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Does yours have the VES valves or reeds. If so I would clean the valves and check the reeds for cracks or damage and clean the carbs since it has sat for awhile.
 

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So I picked up a 1996 XCR 440 special a few days ago. Has about 5500 miles. It's probably been sitting a while, and gas is likely old. It was rough getting it up onto the trailer and brought home. It had changed hands a couple of times recently. I checked cold compression today, and both were at 115. It's not a great tester, but both cylinders are at least equal. The engagement was closer to 5000 rpm. I put it on the stand and it doesn't seem to be slipping the belt. The belt is worn, which has increased the BTS clearance. WOT on track stand, and it doesn't really want to get above 6000-7000 rpm. It hardly moves with me on it. Dug into it a little after that. Both clutches are dirty, and the primary for sure could use a rebuild. With the belt off, the secondary and track rotate easily. Visible bearings don't look bad, and there isn't extra play in the jackshaft bearing. No metal in the crankcase, and the fluid looks good, and I haven't taken it apart yet. Speedo isn't working so I'm guessing the key is shot, but the external view of the bearing looks good.
Does anyone have any thoughts? I've had bad carbs before, but it's weird that the rpms are limiting like that. Just wondering how far I want to dig in or if I should just part it out.

Thanks
If speedo key is broken, the driveshaft bearing may be bad. This will drag the engine down under load. Remove speedo housing cover on end of driveshaft and check it.
Also, the belt must be in good condition and deflection set at 1-1/1/4".
Check for broken piston skirts also.
Check clutch for bad rollers, worn/sticking weights, broken spring, binding, etc.
Look for broken engine mounts.
Belt side clearance in primary should be around .010-.020".
Check for leaking exhaust anywhere from engine to muffler.
Inspect muffler for damage/plugging.
 

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With the engine off and drive belt off put the sled on a track stand, try turning the track by hand. Should be somewhat snug, but you should be able to freely turn it.
 

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Next step is to install the drive belt and run the sled on the track stand to check your belt deflection...starting with a new belt, it should sit 1/16'' or so above the driven sheaves. Factory jetting on the 95 xcr440 wasn't bad. I suspect the 96 was pretty good to.
I just saw when you say special motor...96 was still a fuji 440 last i knew. You don't mean its a liberty 440?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Next step is to install the drive belt and run the sled on the track stand to check your belt deflection...starting with a new belt, it should sit 1/16'' or so above the driven sheaves. Factory jetting on the 95 xcr440 wasn't bad. I suspect the 96 was pretty good to.
I just saw when you say special motor...96 was still a fuji 440 last i knew. You don't mean its a liberty 440?
It’s the 440 special engine (Fuji)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I finally had time to do a little tinkering after this being so busy. I pulled the carbs and cleaned them good. Pulled the gas and added fresh. Adjusted idle and synced carbs. Cleaned up clutches and put on a new belt. It's a parts unlimited as that was all that was available. The Polaris belt that was on it was really worn out. Clutch alignment is good. It's less than 5/8'' with alignment tool, but front and back are even. I have the adjustment on secondary all the way out and it still doesn't close sheaves enough to get the belt up a little above edge. I will have to pull the secondary again, I'm positive it only has one shim between the sheaves though. I also loosened up the track so it's plenty loose. It just does not want to go under weight. The bogeys and idlers all turn easy as well. The chain case tensioner is finger tight. Track still rotates easy with turning secondary and brakes don't appear to be binding. I'm really at a loss.
 

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So I finally had time to do a little tinkering after this being so busy. I pulled the carbs and cleaned them good. Pulled the gas and added fresh. Adjusted idle and synced carbs. Cleaned up clutches and put on a new belt. It's a parts unlimited as that was all that was available. The Polaris belt that was on it was really worn out. Clutch alignment is good. It's less than 5/8'' with alignment tool, but front and back are even. I have the adjustment on secondary all the way out and it still doesn't close sheaves enough to get the belt up a little above edge. I will have to pull the secondary again, I'm positive it only has one shim between the sheaves though. I also loosened up the track so it's plenty loose. It just does not want to go under weight. The bogeys and idlers all turn easy as well. The chain case tensioner is finger tight. Track still rotates easy with turning secondary and brakes don't appear to be binding. I'm really at a loss.
Well from what your saying, and already have done...i'm at a bigger loss. Let me ask this simple question...on a track stand with the engine running, while giving it enough throttle, does the clutch engage the belt that is spins the secondary which drives the gears and turns the track?
 
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